I have never been on this forum and don't know if I have come to the right place. I have a 1993 landcruiser that makes clicking noise on hard left turn when accelerating.No noise otherwise. The toyota has 115,000 miles and never been off pavement. Don't no if worth fixing, quoted 1000 to 1500 cad dollars. Is this safe to drive. I'm on my way to Calif for winter and would like to get it fixed there but don't want to risk safety. thanks jbc
1993 Toyota birfield joint noise
- Thread starter johnbc
- Start date
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They can last for years while making noise, or break. I drove mine for about 6 months while it made some clicking while turning before fixing it, but there are no guarantees. If you pull the front drive shaft and lock the CDL there will be no risk of the birf breaking, but you won't have all wheel drive.
to lock the transfer case put the transfer case in low, wait for the cdl to lock, pull the "diff" fuse from the dash, and shift back into high.
to lock the transfer case put the transfer case in low, wait for the cdl to lock, pull the "diff" fuse from the dash, and shift back into high.
john, your problem is a dry and worn cv joint or birfield. this is very common on the 80 series as this part is supposed to be repacked with grease every 90,000 miles or so. this is a fulltime 4wd vehicle so that part is constantly in use. because the 80 has a solid front axle the cv join or birfield is inside the axle housing.
the correct maintenance is to tear down your front axle and repack both your birfields with grease and, possibly, replace the one that is clicking (you should try to listen outside your window while turning to isolate it). at the same time you should do other timely front end maintenance which includes repacking the wheel bearings and trunnion bearings and replacing these if they are worn.
if you read the faq section of this forum you will find detailed instructions on how to do a birfield repack yourself and exactly what parts are needed.
a quote of $1200 to repack both front axles sounds roughly right assuming the mechanic uses all toyota parts and also services the wheel bearings and trunnion bearings at the same time. replacing any bearings or a birfield would be extra.
unfortunately, many mechanics treat this like a regular cv joint replacement on a lighter vehicle and do a quick and dirty job. they use rtv instead of the proper gaskets, reuse the old seals and ignore the servicing of the bearings to save time and money. for $1200 you need to use a mechanic you can trust to do this work or take it to a dealer. if you don't want to do a proper job and you are in vancouver there is or was a place called "cv joint services" that will do an adequate quick and dirty job for a whole lot less.
if you do the work now you will save the other birfield from wearing to the point of clicking and you might find that repacking and swapping sides will stop the clicking birfield. however, it may be too far gone and may start clicking again after servicing. you can buy a new aftermarket birfield from a couple of vendors on this site. unless you go "quick and dirty" you should not rebuild the birfield or buy a rebuilt birfield from a cv shop as they frequently start clicking again soon after.
you cannot inspect a birfield itself to see how worn it is. you can do a visual check of your knuckle housing by looking behind the wheel at the steel globe that forms part of the knuckle housing. if the surface of the globe has gear or runny grease on it, you need to fix this problem pretty urgently because this is a sign the inner axle seal has failed and the axle gear oil is diluting the birfield grease. however, if you see regular grease you do not know what your situation is. it could last 100 miles or 50,000 miles with the clicking. the only sure thing is the clicking will get worse as the bad birf wears and eventually the other birf will also start clicking.
good luck.
the correct maintenance is to tear down your front axle and repack both your birfields with grease and, possibly, replace the one that is clicking (you should try to listen outside your window while turning to isolate it). at the same time you should do other timely front end maintenance which includes repacking the wheel bearings and trunnion bearings and replacing these if they are worn.
if you read the faq section of this forum you will find detailed instructions on how to do a birfield repack yourself and exactly what parts are needed.
a quote of $1200 to repack both front axles sounds roughly right assuming the mechanic uses all toyota parts and also services the wheel bearings and trunnion bearings at the same time. replacing any bearings or a birfield would be extra.
unfortunately, many mechanics treat this like a regular cv joint replacement on a lighter vehicle and do a quick and dirty job. they use rtv instead of the proper gaskets, reuse the old seals and ignore the servicing of the bearings to save time and money. for $1200 you need to use a mechanic you can trust to do this work or take it to a dealer. if you don't want to do a proper job and you are in vancouver there is or was a place called "cv joint services" that will do an adequate quick and dirty job for a whole lot less.
if you do the work now you will save the other birfield from wearing to the point of clicking and you might find that repacking and swapping sides will stop the clicking birfield. however, it may be too far gone and may start clicking again after servicing. you can buy a new aftermarket birfield from a couple of vendors on this site. unless you go "quick and dirty" you should not rebuild the birfield or buy a rebuilt birfield from a cv shop as they frequently start clicking again soon after.
you cannot inspect a birfield itself to see how worn it is. you can do a visual check of your knuckle housing by looking behind the wheel at the steel globe that forms part of the knuckle housing. if the surface of the globe has gear or runny grease on it, you need to fix this problem pretty urgently because this is a sign the inner axle seal has failed and the axle gear oil is diluting the birfield grease. however, if you see regular grease you do not know what your situation is. it could last 100 miles or 50,000 miles with the clicking. the only sure thing is the clicking will get worse as the bad birf wears and eventually the other birf will also start clicking.
good luck.
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The most important thing is; the birfs must have the proper grease, moly and have it maintained at the proper level, the knuckles ~1/2-3/4 full. Unfortunately this is often overlooked, even by dealer service and they are driven dry, greatly increasing wear, shortening birf life. At 115K miles the birfs should be in great condition, if they had proper lube.
My first test would be to add some moly grease, drive and see if the sound reduces, goes away, or? If they are dry, wouldn't drive it until grease is added.
My first test would be to add some moly grease, drive and see if the sound reduces, goes away, or? If they are dry, wouldn't drive it until grease is added.
Hi guys,
Quick question: Are the birfs from a part time 4wd 80 (Venezuelan spec) interchangeable with the LX450? My mechanic has a set of birfs he is offering me but would like to know if they will work or not. Thanks in advance for the help,
Quick question: Are the birfs from a part time 4wd 80 (Venezuelan spec) interchangeable with the LX450? My mechanic has a set of birfs he is offering me but would like to know if they will work or not. Thanks in advance for the help,
Tuesday morning bump...
If possible, someone please chime in with PN for the birfs for a 1997 LX450. I am looking at the microfiche and there is a PN for ABS and one for locking center diff (but it also mentions PTO??)
A. 43405-60070 SHAFT SUB-ASSY, FRONT AXLE OUTER - W(ABS)
B. 43405-60080 SHAFT SUB-ASSY, FRONT AXLE OUTER - W(CENTER DIFFERENTIAL LOCK & PTO DRIVE GEAR)
Any pointers would be much appreciated, as I am getting ready to order some birfs. Thanks,
If possible, someone please chime in with PN for the birfs for a 1997 LX450. I am looking at the microfiche and there is a PN for ABS and one for locking center diff (but it also mentions PTO??)
A. 43405-60070 SHAFT SUB-ASSY, FRONT AXLE OUTER - W(ABS)
B. 43405-60080 SHAFT SUB-ASSY, FRONT AXLE OUTER - W(CENTER DIFFERENTIAL LOCK & PTO DRIVE GEAR)
Any pointers would be much appreciated, as I am getting ready to order some birfs. Thanks,
Thanks!
Hi Delancy,
Thanks for your quick reply. For the clicking sound is it strictly necessary to change ALL components you listed or only the birfields themselves? Thanks in advance,
Hi Delancy,
Thanks for your quick reply. For the clicking sound is it strictly necessary to change ALL components you listed or only the birfields themselves? Thanks in advance,
Backing up a couple steps after re-reading thread.
First, the part numbers I listed are for a US 1997 LX450.
Second. No, you don't need all listed. ( i copied and pasted from notes) if there's only one birf audibly complaining, then you'd only need one birf, IF the moly grease level has been determined sufficient.
If you've not checked the level, it's a simple process and may be all necessary to stop the clicking sound. Fill 3/4 of the way and listen for the click. If it stops, problem solved.
If levels low, you fill 3/4s of the way and it seeps out/clicking returns, need to address the knuckle wipers, possibly rebuild axle "while you're in there".
My advice is check the grease level first. If its determined to be correct and you're experiencing clicking, I'd personal stop short of nothing but a full axle rebuild.
Edited:
I'd get with CDan before ordering this, but the list his former protege sent me for axle rebuild, minus part numbers for drive flanges, which I can't find.
(1) Gasket, DI (42181-60070)
(1) Gasket, DI (42181-60080)
(2) Gasket, FR (43422-60060)
(2) Seal, Sub-A (43204-60032)
(2) Ring, Snap (90520-31007)
(2) Ring, Hole (90521-34005)
(2) Washer, Lo (90215-42025)
(2) Washer-CL (90214-42030)
(2) Seal (90310-35010)
(2) Seal (90311-62001)
(2) Seal (90313-93003)
(4) Bearing, T (90366-20003)
(4) Gasket, DR (12157-10010)
(2) Gasket, KN (4345-60020)
(2) Gasket, KN (43436-60011)
(2) Seal (90311-62002)
(2) Gasket, FR (43422-60040)
(2) Seal (90310-35001)
(2) Nut, RR AX (42427-60021)
(4) Screw (42419-60011)
(1) FIPG kit (F. I. P. G., T)
(4) Bearing (45087)
(4) Bearing (49084)
First, the part numbers I listed are for a US 1997 LX450.
Second. No, you don't need all listed. ( i copied and pasted from notes) if there's only one birf audibly complaining, then you'd only need one birf, IF the moly grease level has been determined sufficient.
If you've not checked the level, it's a simple process and may be all necessary to stop the clicking sound. Fill 3/4 of the way and listen for the click. If it stops, problem solved.
If levels low, you fill 3/4s of the way and it seeps out/clicking returns, need to address the knuckle wipers, possibly rebuild axle "while you're in there".
My advice is check the grease level first. If its determined to be correct and you're experiencing clicking, I'd personal stop short of nothing but a full axle rebuild.
Edited:
I'd get with CDan before ordering this, but the list his former protege sent me for axle rebuild, minus part numbers for drive flanges, which I can't find.
(1) Gasket, DI (42181-60070)
(1) Gasket, DI (42181-60080)
(2) Gasket, FR (43422-60060)
(2) Seal, Sub-A (43204-60032)
(2) Ring, Snap (90520-31007)
(2) Ring, Hole (90521-34005)
(2) Washer, Lo (90215-42025)
(2) Washer-CL (90214-42030)
(2) Seal (90310-35010)
(2) Seal (90311-62001)
(2) Seal (90313-93003)
(4) Bearing, T (90366-20003)
(4) Gasket, DR (12157-10010)
(2) Gasket, KN (4345-60020)
(2) Gasket, KN (43436-60011)
(2) Seal (90311-62002)
(2) Gasket, FR (43422-60040)
(2) Seal (90310-35001)
(2) Nut, RR AX (42427-60021)
(4) Screw (42419-60011)
(1) FIPG kit (F. I. P. G., T)
(4) Bearing (45087)
(4) Bearing (49084)
Last edited:
Replace your flanges as well. I have seen more noise just from worn flanges than birfs. not to mention the old flange is worn to match the old bird. If some have part time 4wd with flanges, change flanges. If some have part time with locking hubs....don't worry about it.
you guys are starting to reinvent the wheel here.
there is a very thorough faq for how to repack birfs this including photographs, parts lists and suggestions on tools and how to save money on the bearings.
there is a very thorough faq for how to repack birfs this including photographs, parts lists and suggestions on tools and how to save money on the bearings.
Hi again guys,
Excuse me for the belated reply, but in the midst of having this work done I also had my cylinder head removed for a complete overhaul, and UNFORTUNATELY the mechanic saw that there was considerable wear on the cylinders and recommended that I rebuild the engine while I was at it. Yes, it has put a tremendous dent on my pocketbook, but the rig should be ready by Friday. The birfs have been swapped although my mechanic did tell me there is some wear, but at this point I just hope that the clicking stops and last long enough to get enough cash to do a complete overhaul on the axle. At 550 a pop, they will have to wait!!
Thanks again and I'll report on the results once the hearse is running again. Regards,
Excuse me for the belated reply, but in the midst of having this work done I also had my cylinder head removed for a complete overhaul, and UNFORTUNATELY the mechanic saw that there was considerable wear on the cylinders and recommended that I rebuild the engine while I was at it. Yes, it has put a tremendous dent on my pocketbook, but the rig should be ready by Friday. The birfs have been swapped although my mechanic did tell me there is some wear, but at this point I just hope that the clicking stops and last long enough to get enough cash to do a complete overhaul on the axle. At 550 a pop, they will have to wait!!
Thanks again and I'll report on the results once the hearse is running again. Regards,