1986 4Runner Refresh

[GeoRoss]

I have always wanted to get a 1st gen 4Runner. I almost bought one new in 1988 after graduating from high school. I got cold feet at the thought of spending all the money I had saved. Oh well, it took some time and here we are.

Flash forward to the early 2000's. My wife and I bought a new 2002 4Runner. We loved that vehicle. I however couldn't use it for work. I am a field geologist and often find myself in tricky places. I planned on finding a 3rd gen 4Runner for field work.

I then began working in Tibet where we used Land Cruisers. When I saw what they could do my plans changed. I found and bought a 1994 FZJ80 Land Cruiser 12 years ago. It has been modified and has been an utterly reliable vehicle for both work, cross country vacations and around town. It needs a break for some maintenance and upgrades. I'm now so busy with kids I find it entirely too stressful trying to finish projects over a weekend. Last summer I decided I needed a daily driver.



How about finding a 1st gen 4Runner?

I began searching here in AZ and really not finding anything worthwhile. Either too beat, too modified or too EXPENSIVE. Around Labor Day CubeDweller decided to sell his project, a 1986 4Runner with 113,000 miles on it. He had done most of the engine tune up and other things too it mechanically. It had some body damage and he had already sourced a new hood and cowl, ds door and ds front fender. It needed a bumper. He found some gently used 2nd gen seats and had already installed the fronts. He had obtained a 4Runner e-locker too. He put 3rd gen 4Runner wheels on it, but included some 15" aluminum American Racing wheels. He had sourced some of the interior pieces as well. He included the FSM and EWD and a 3rd member e-locker. I can't say enough positive things about Cube.

It took until just before Christmas before I could fly up and buy it. Fall was an exercise in patience.

First experience in a Land Cruiser

I'm keeping the Land Cruiser. The 4Runner will give me the time to slowly tackle a laundry list of things the 80 needs done. Plus I'm getting 20 mpg around town instead of 12 mpg.

Fun at Cruise Moad on Golden Spike with the Land Cruiser

Camping in Northern Arizona with the Land Cruiser

Camping on the North Rim of the Grand Canyon with the Land Cruiser

 

[GeoRoss]

It was an uneventful trip back. The CEL came on once during a WOT up a steep grade, code 5.

The driver door and wing window leaked air like it was nobodies business. It was a really fun trip.

Barstow, CA

Somewhere near Joshua Tree NP.

Back in AZ

First things first, it had no front bumper. The 4Runner had been in a minor front end accident that messed up the front end, ds front fender door and back fender.

I really wanted front turn signals. Without the front turn signals the back ones blinked like a strobe light, plus I wanted to be legal. I found a beat up bumper at a local salvage yard. Ugly, but I now had a bumper with turn signals.

While installing this bumper I discovered that the ds bumper bracket that is welded to the cross beam was bent back. I bent it mostly back into place. I'll need to re-weld it, but it is fine short term. This was the first hint that there was hidden damage lurking.

Look carefully at the ds core support. There is a slight tweak at the top.

While at my first salvage yard trip (the first of many) I was able to score some goodies.

They are the wrong color, but that can be fixed easily. They threw in the roll bar pad for free. I felt a little robbed paying $80 for the altimeter, but then when I looked on eBay they are the ones who left money on the table.

They also gave me the dash pad. It is an ugly mess, not as nice as the one in my 4Runner. I thought I might use it to experiment with recovering a dash pad. There are some very interesting videos on youtube showing how to do it.

 

[GeoRoss]

This 4Runner has become my daily driver. My role is often the chauffeur. I wanted to get the 2nd gen seats in and to put some 3-point belts in ASAP.

This is what I discovered taking the original seat out.

NO FRAME!

What the heck is this?

Lets explore this a little.

I guess the wood frame needed a spacer. It was screwed through the floor with these.

I siliconed the holes for now. Sadly, they ground out the latches. I need to go the PnP and get some new ones.

I really wanted to use the 2nd gen seat frame. Especially after finding out I didn't have a bottom seat frame. I soon discovered that it wouldn't work without a little welding. I don't have a welder and my friend how has one is scared of thin stuff. So back to the salvage yard and $40 poorer I had the complete seat frame for the back seat. Hog ties are not that bad and I think it turned out good.

I do need to source the bottom seat floor latches. As soon as I get a welder, I will but the 2nd gen seat frames in. There is a large gap right now between the seat bottoms and seat backs. The seat belts keep falling in.

I pulled the rear seat belts out of a 2000 Subaru Outback. They are black and do not match. At some point I will replace them with something from Seatbelt Planet. $20 for the pair.

The donor seats were signed.

I accumulated parts over the winter months and slowly put them on. I bought an ebay front bumper, valence and end caps. had to make the brackets for the valence and end caps. I was finally able to source some at a salvage yard. They need a little welding and massaging before I put them on. But the redneck version will work for the time being.

Front bumper v2.0

Parts Horde

I had to make a bracket for the new shifter boot too. It isn't perfect and I'll do it again later.

This was from eBay. I feel a little ripped off, but it goes with the FSM and EWD Cube included.

I've already put the side mirrors on. They look rough and I need to wire them, but much better than what was on there.

 

[GeoRoss]

When I bought the 4Runner, Cube had already swapped in the SR5 gauge cluster for an automatic. I could live with this cluster for awhile, but the oil pressure wasn't working. I did't know if it was a wiring issue, gauge or sender issue. It has the correct sender. I just ordered the SR5 gauge cluster for a 5-speed and I'm taking this opportunity to test out the oil pressure loop. The receiver in the auto transmission gauge cluster passes the FSM test, 44.3 ohms. The sender failed both tests. 2V with the key to ignition and could not cause a 3.4W bulb to flash with the engine running.

No problem, I'll pick up a new oil sender. I picked up a new oil pressure sender today, Intermotor PS186, made in Japan. I installed it with teflon tape only leaving the bottom 2 or 3 threads free. I still don't have any oil pressure register at the pressure gauge.

I checked out the new sender. 6.5V with the ignition on and cannot light a 3.4W bulb. Sort of passes the first test (it should be 4.5V) and fails the second. Did I get two bum senders? I was cautious not to screw it in to far, it doesn't leak. Do these pressure senders need to be seated on something or just screwed in enough not to leak? I've never messed with oil pressure senders before.

I just ordered an OEM pressure sender and will return this one I guess.

When I pop in the new gauge cluster, I'll look at the door buzzer. I think it was unplugged as the ds door doesn't turn on the dome light. I hope that is all.

I knew when I bought the 4Runner the AC didn't work. This May it finally got hot enough to get it fixed. We hoped it just needed a recharge. It was leaking from the compressor shaft.

$700 later I have a new compressor and an AC that works. That is ~1/3 the price I paid for the 4Runner.

Well the 4Runner is read for its first adventure. We only had one daughter in town during Memorial Day and decided to go camping. Let's take the 4Runner.

We loaded up and headed to get gas. I noticed that is was riding a bit funny. At the gas station I looked underneath to find I was riding on the bumpstops. I knew the springs were tired, but yikes. Well, we transferred everything to the minivan and changed location since the 80 does not have a working AC. Vacation saved and we had some bears wander near our campsite, so remote enough.

 

[GeoRoss]

I took a gamble on pulling the Nuetral Safety Start switch off a 2nd gen 4Runner. My current one works, but its label is rubbed off. I encountered only two problems. I'll have to remove a plastic lip on the switch that only helps orient the switch during installation. It won't be seen so is a not an issue.

The second is the plug. The 1st gen is hard wired and plugs in to the harness with a pigtail. The 2nd gen plugs directly into the harness.

I can either go to a salvage yard and get a second gen plug which will require a little research of the EWD's or I can do surgery on the switches and swap the face plates.

I did buy some OME medium duty rear springs. They should be here tomorrow afternoon.

I've read that you can pull a leaf for reduced lift. I've contacted ARB to confirm this and which leaf. I could also replace an OME leaf with one of my tired leaves too I guess. It will take some experimentation.

I have flirted with adding coil spring helper as a temporary solution. While I think it is a viable solution, I only think it works safely with proper spring perches in place.

 

[GeoRoss]

Things to do:

Mechanically

I get this intermittent code 5. I this thread leads me to think it is not much of an issue at this time.

I have low idle at start up. It idles anywhere from 200-500 when cold and then around 600 when warm. The IACV may need some tinkering. I do need to bump up the idle as it is around 600-650 when warm.

Suspension. I need new springs. I only want a mild lift and be able to carry a full load. I go back and forth. I may just use some coil helpers temporarily and then replace the springs later. I have some OME medium duty springs on the way. I may remove a leaf or swap in one of the tired stock leaves to get a lower lift. We will see as my plans are always changing. I'll use the OME bushings and U-bolts, but the stock shackles.

Tires at some point. The Wrangler ST's are really just street tires, but they will work for the time being.

Wire up the electric side mirrors. It shouldn't be too hard. I didn't see them in my quick scan of the EWD.

Rear e-locker. I have found that the rear e-locker is all I'll ever need. I am just going to source a rear axle housing and slowly do the modification to fit it in. Lots of online resources, but this will happen later. I did purchase the switch from a 3rd Gen. I'm thinking about methods to have an indicator light up in the instrument panel. Something like this.

Right now that is it.

Appearance
I have a quote to get it painted, $3,000. I want to address the body stuff first. The most concerning for me is the ds door check mount on the a-pillar. It needs to be totally rebuilt. Sadly, from my surgery at the PnP I will need to cut an access port from the front to do this like the factory. If there is any feedback or help on this I would appreciate it.

I need to do a new carpet and try to sound proof.

The interior is mostly intact. I will try and make some vinyl covered door panels as the ones I have are the 3/4 version. I have some beat up full door panels to use as a template.

These are the initial plans.

 

[GeoRoss]

Here are the two body problems I'm unsure about. The least of them is the core support. You can see a minor pucker at the toward the center of the core support. I need to put my good fender on to check alignment. I'm really hoping that things line up well. I drilled out the core support of one at the PnP. It was hot and a PITA. I thought it would take 30 minutes. WRONG! I have to say I'll be greatly relieved if I don't need to replace it.

The one that worries me is the A-Pillar door check mount. You can see the top half is missing and the bottom half is hanging by a thread. I saw the two spot welds and thought easy-peasy, I'll go to the PnP and pull one. 1 hour of surgery showed me how wrong I was. I suspect I'll have to cut an access port on the back side to really fix this. I'm really hoping that somebody has an excellent idea.

 

[msahr]

I like the writeup! While I've gone in a totally different direction with mine (just finished crossover steering and new 5" lift plus shocks new front driveshaft etc etc) it's neat to see one basically unmolested. I forgot all about the front valance and mine never had a stock back bumper. The side plastic pieces on the rear bumper were gone about 3 seconds after I got mine home 15 years ago...

 

[GeoRoss]

It is really hard not to build the 4Runner up. It is such a rabbit hole. Put a lift on, oh the tires now look ridiculous. Get new tires, oh I can barely get on the freeway, regear. Lather, rinse, repeat.

I'm just enjoying the gas mileage around town. I'd like it to be able to handle mild stuff in the near term and look a little nicer. I will say when I finally get around to doing the e-locker there will likely be some changes.

 

[GeoRoss]

This was fast. I ordered them yesterday.

I have OME bushings and u-bolts as well. $326 shipped.

I contacted ARB about removing a leaf. Here was the response.

Hello Ross! Thank you for using our products. Standard practice with OME
Leafs state that you can remove the third Leaf down from the Main Leaf to
reduce height approx. .5" and the rate approx.. 10%. If a Spring Clip is
riveted to that third Leaf, then remove the fourth.

 

[msahr]

Wow yeah that was fast. I know what you mean about the rabbit hole. I've been looking at larger wheels/tires since the lift and of course then I'll need 4.88s... and gee I hope it still fits in the garage! It does now... barely.

 

[GeoRoss]

I've been trying to get the oil pressure gauge to work. I tested the sender according to the FSM. It couldn't pulse a 3.4W bulb with the engine. The gauges from two different clusters That have both pass the ohm test have been tried. I need to test the voltage in these gauges.

I bought an aftermarket sender, Intermotor. No love. It failed the FSM test. I picked up a Senkei OEM sender. Same thing, gauge doesn't work. I need to do the FSM test on the new sender.

I decided to test the wiring. I quickly tested continuity from the cluster to the sender. No love. I'm pretty sure it should have continuity.

Has anyone seen this sort of thing?

 

[msahr]

I gave up on my OEM oil pressure and temp gauges a long time ago (which, to be honest, aren't all that great to begin with) and went aftermarket AutoMeter with a A-pillar mount that replaces the OEM plastic piece. Works really nice.

 

[GeoRoss]

I gave up on my OEM oil pressure and temp gauges a long time ago (which, to be honest, aren't all that great to begin with) and went aftermarket AutoMeter with a A-pillar mount that replaces the OEM plastic piece. Works really nice.

I am leaning that route right now. I'll start researching and see if I can find something that fits in the stock location. I think I've seen it done. I have a spare gauge cluster to experiment with. I'd prefer going electric as I can just use the stock harness. I would likely change out the temp gauge at the same time.

I might just take apart one of my broken pressure gauges an see if I can see what is burned out. It may be repairable.

 

[txlonghorn]

Hello! I am in the geo-world and also have a 4runner. Enjoying your write-up. I have some input about your OME springs. I went the CS009R route at first, but ended up combining them with another, longer OME pack to get my desired result. The shackle angle is not ideal with just the CS009r springs. Although I know ARB told you to replace the third leaf down (or 4th if the 3rd is riveted), I would not recommend doing so. I would recommend keeping your 3rd and 4th leaves and removing the very bottom (shortest) overload. The spring rate of your top 4 springs (that you ride on when unloaded) is already relatively low compared to what other aftermarket mini truck-only spring vendors outfit. The CS009R has a 217 lb ft/in rating on your top four leafs and a 388 lb ft/in rating when you reach your overloads. I would not want to run any lower than 217 lb ft/in even when completely empty (as I run typically). By removing the bottom overload you are removing some of your load carrying capacity when completely loaded down, but you won't be dragging ass and riding on your overloads all the time as you would if you removed the 3rd leaf as they recommended. It would be a rough ride. You don't lose any riveted spring containers with the bottom leaf gone and it will lower the overall amount of lift by the thickness of the leaf. The ARB USA tech guys suspension knowledge is limited when it comes to our specific springs packs (my experience after four phone calls with them).

 

[GeoRoss]

Thanks for the information. You are not the first person who told me they removed the overload spring. I didn't know the spring rate, that is good info to have. I'll probably need to experiment. By far the most common suggestion is to just run them as is and flex them out with a load. If the stink bug is too much then play with the spring pack.

 

[txlonghorn]

My shackle angle was vertical running the pack as they designed. They're made to carry weight and would benefit from a longer eye to eye length.

 

[PhrogsPhorever]

Here is what the stink bug looks like with OME heavies and the overload spring in.

Stink bug gone with overload removed, and 400lbs of doods on the tailgate, only drops the rear by an inch or so.

 

[onemanarmy]

Man...I thought you said you were getting a DD.. You got yourself a pretty big, time consuming project....which takes away time and money from the 80.

But I understand, and am following along.

 

[GeoRoss]

It isn't that time consuming. Mechanically it is a good as it can be for a 30 year old truck. I just swapped in new springs and should have the oil pressure gauge working soon. That is the last of the mechanical stuff I need to do. I'll do the body work on it after I get the Cruiser done. The Cruiser only really needs a half dozen maintenance jobs and other special projects.

I went with the medium duty OME rear leafs, OME bushings and stock shackles. I had planned to remove a leaf. However, all the main leaves are riveted to leaf retain clips. I could have drilled one out but then I would have to put in another retaining clip. I didn't have the time or patience to do that. I could have removed the overload leaf, but that would have just lowered me down the thickness of that leaf for all practical purposes. If any of this is incorrect let me know. I decided to just put them in and see what it looks like.

This is what it looked like driving home lightly loaded.

Right after adding the lift.

I added ~550 lbs of pavers to help break in the springs. It only lowered it about an inch.

If they settle down to that height I'll be very happy. I can adjust the torsion bars to level it out a little. I don't want to roughen the ride so this 4runner will have a rake for the foreseeable future. I need to look into the LSPV adjustment. Braking was bit weak, but some of that is all that weight.

I also wish I had the time to swap the springs this past winter/spring. It was a bit warm.