1978 toyota chinook, 1kz-te powered. fueling/cooling issues (1 Viewer)

[J2P]

If you remove the pusher fans and place intercooler in front and put in puller fans as others suggest would probably work much better. That is typical factory configuration.

 

[Weregettingout]

Agreed, but does an intercoole exist that is that narrow? I literally have inches between my rad and my grille.

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Just another thought, when you had the injectors rebuilt and re-installed, did they use new crush washers in the head? If not, combustion gases can leak past and foul the injector nozzles causing all sorts of problems. They need to be installed with a specific side down etc. too.

 

[Weregettingout]

Just another thought, when you had the injectors rebuilt and re-installed, did they use new crush washers in the head? If not, combustion gases can leak past and foul the injector nozzles causing all sorts of problems. They need to be installed with a specific side down etc. too.

I had them rebuilt by NW fuel injection in Port Kell's, I seem to remember there being fresh crush's in a baggy. I had them reinstalled by BCC by their diesel tech. I mean there is always a possibility but the same problem was there pre rebuild and replace.

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

I had them rebuilt by NW fuel injection in Port Kell's, I seem to remember there being fresh crush's in a baggy. I had them reinstalled by BCC by their diesel tech. I mean there is always a possibility but the same problem was there pre rebuild and replace.

OK, sounds unlikely then. Just an idea.

 

[RufusTheDufus]

Agreed, but does an intercoole exist that is that narrow? I literally have inches between my rad and my grille.

Would you consider a cold air source like a snorkel instead of the intercooler mounted behind the radiator? It would likely be more effective than a heat-soaked intercooler.

 

[85Diesel]

Why not cut out the radiator core support and grill, and just move everything forward several inches? Then make a custom grill.

 

[helipilot77]

Beautiful truck! I just finished rebuilding my 1kz this summer and went to the Mitsubishi 4M40 mechanical pump. I have a 3 inch dump pipe and exhaust as well as a huge 3 core aluminum radiator. I have no intercooler but going up long hills mine will also start to really heat up. I just bought the 76° thermostat part number 90916-03119 but haven’t installed it yet. It is my last attempt to keep this thing cool before removing the thermostat from the factory location and moving it into the upper radiator hose. I won’t really know if the 76° thermostat works until it starts to warm up again. Since your alternator just died you might consider upgrading to a Denso hairpin 150 amp alternator. It’s something I’ve been wanting to try myself. I think I found a model that might be a bolt in swap aside from swapping the pulley.

New 12V 150 Amp Alternator John Deere Tractor 104210-3920 104210-3921 1042103921

12660, 12660*4, Alternator, 1042103920, RE186320, RE257541, 104210-3920, 104210-3921

www.rareelectrical.com

it was used on John Deere tractors so it makes all it’s power at much lower RPM’s it’s also easier to find replacements. Amazon sells them from this retailer. I haven’t tried it yet myself but it appears to be correct. It even uses the same plug.

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Just scanning through this thread quickly again, and wondering if you ever checked your ECU for leaking capacitors. A lot of the 1KZ ECU's have this issue, and it can cause all sorts of problems. I fixed one for one of the KZJ78 owners on this board. Was a real chore, as the capacitor dielectric that leaked out had eaten away the copper traces of the circuit board.

 

[Darkwing58]

Actually, Jason has been involved with this truck heavily though I haven't bothered to ask him a great deal of questions about my motor as I see how busy he is with that frame swap currently.
I believe I really only have about 2.5" Max of clearance between my grill and rad support. Do they make some that small for that amount of airflow?

Look at an intercooler from a Volvo 740, 2.5 inches thick.
using on on my 3B diesel swap in to a FJ40. And the electric fan that is mounted to it moves a lot of air. It’s a 2 speed fan.

 

[Dougal]

First time poster, i apologize that i do not have a current build thread to share with the community beyond what is shown on my personal instagram. IG handle is my Ih8mud forum user name.

Firstly let me say that the truck in question is a 1976 Toyota pickup(Chinook) that has received a 1kz-te heart transplant and a r151 tranny/tcase behind it. built by Big Country Customs in Abbotsford, British Columbia

After the completion of this build and about 8000 miles i have noted a few areas that need improvements and i am hoping the community can offer some new eyes to existing problems.

1. Cooling issues
I overheat pulling hills or on hot days normal driving
- Running a 2.5" exhaust with free flowing muffler from turbo back (custom dump pipe as well)
- inter-cooled
-Large radiator with two front mounted fans
(my notes of improvement are as follows, remove inter-cooler to increase room behind rad, add rear mount rad fans (no room for mechanical) possibly do hood scoop with top mount inter-cooler. Not a lot of airflow through the front of the truck)

2. rattle/engine miss/intermittent smoking on warmup/ low rev chatter/hesitation
smokes on fire up with evident timing issues, warming up and driving stops this but under decompression or little throttle there is still evident timing issues. under load and in boost no visible issues
- 170km roughly on motor, a/t ECU
- fresh head, new cam
- EGR deleted
- Rebuilt injectors
- fresh valve adjustment
- new glow plugs
(my notes for improvement are as follows, purchasing a mechanical pump(found) changing the truck from an electronic to mechanical 1Kz-T under the impression that my pump is causing my timing issues and Upping boost (to help climb hills and keep airflow up for connected cooling issues) )
View attachment 2103368

So there's your cooling problems right there. Whoever did your cooling system setup got it all backwards.
Intercooler goes in front of the radiator because it needs the coolest air.
Radiator goes behind the intercooler.
Radiator needs a shroud so the fans can pull the air over 100% of the radiator core area.
Fans go behind the radiator.

Currently you have pusher fans that are next to useless and your intercooler being heat-soaked by the radiator in front.

 

[SNLC]

Old thread, I didn’t read it all or the replies.

I can tell from the first pics though that cooling pack is the problem. That is a horrible IC install, none of it is sealed either. Electric fans suck, especially on a diesel. That cooling pack needs to be completely redone and reconfigured. It needs a mechanical fan and proper shroud and good sealing around it all. After that is fixed you can start tuning it.

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

So it seems OP has not been on the forum in awhile. Maybe he sold it or maybe he fixed it?

In my opinion the shop who did this swap did a crappy job. That cooling pack is just foolish. Not to mention the location of the air box, I mean why would you ever put the air box on the opposite side of the engine bay as the turbo and then run intake hose across the top of the valves cover? If it’s like that because things don’t fit, well the shop should have dealt with all that with the customer before even starting the swap. There is a process when you start a build and or swap to determine what is the best engine to install. That has many factors but right up near the top of the list is, will it fit!? And by that I mean will it fit correctly. This 1KZ looks to not fit. If you can’t even get the radiator setup right with a good shroud and mechanical fan then you should look at other engines to swap or look at doing body mods to make it fit right. Looks like what the OP got was a 1KZ crammed in there and hardly any thought about all the other important things.

Also why would you ever downgrade your E pump to a mechanical pump? The E pump is far superior and if it is beyond your ability to work it out you should consult somebody who it is not above their ability.

It’s a shame really, I am sure the OP spent a lot of money on the swap. It’s a cool truck too. Nothing wrong with a 1KZ. Poor execution though = poor results. It’s also a real good way to seriously bum out a person who spent the money and had high hopes.

Shops should learn to say no we can’t do that. That won’t work. If somebody doesn’t like that and wants to go elsewhere by all means but to always say yes and do crappy swaps is just sad and shame.

Cheers