Martin, I really like where you placed that box, further recessed in the frame. Things to watch for: will the pittman arm contact the DS spring on compression and full lock to the left? Will the tie rod contact the PS frame rail on full compression. Issues I am dealing with, but the placement of your box really helps. Are you going to do a shackle reversal?
Ive debated heavily on the SR!!! And I still dont know yet. Thanks for the advice.Once i decide on the SR i will clean up the front springs and start flexing it out to see what issues i may have.
Greg, back in raleigh before 2010 for sure.....................I hope haha
Brian, september is pushing it
Greg i plan to finish for the Harlan trip..........and will need trailer spot
How does that crimp bender work for you compared to the mandrel ones? I've heard of guys filling the tube with sand and temporarily capping the ends to bend without distortion.
It doesnt work well. Ive had that thing since i built my tube doors 4 years ago. Its a pipe bender and the metal flattens and wrinkles really quick. I have heard of filling with sand too but never tried it. I dont expect to use that thing again, haha.
Sure will Brian. Im working on that here soon so i will know for sure shortly.
Thanks to Jonathan Malphrus, Ive got some 55 springs in the near future........Appreciate!
I got my tranny hump patched up for the new tranny shifter hole and the all-so-different t-case shifter spot. My dana300 twin stick setup(jbfab.net) was a really sweet setup, real high quality and shifted great! Its all stainless and looks great. I had to grab some stainless wire and weld up a different design to work for my fj. If my fj didnt have a long nv4500hd and and a dana300 clocking ring then i could run the twinsticks like JB-Fab made them, but i had to modify.
I really wanted to run the shifters out of the stock TLC shifter hole but felt better about how i have them now. It look awhile to get the hump patched up to work and look right. Once i get the hump at 100% done, im gonna cut out a plate that will hold both the T-case and tranny shifter boots down and look pretty cool i hope. Stay tuned for that....
Hydroboost system is complete....took some work but i got it...
This is the original pin that connects the brake booster and brake pedal.
With the hydroboost system, i needed a different pin to make it work since this system had a different arm.
This is the original LC pin in the hydroboost system arm. Hard to see in the picture but the pin is far to small and its too wide to actually reuse. so i had to turn a new pin that would work..
This new pin will not use the cotter pin design, rather it is threaded and i have a ny-loc nut for it(3/8th 16). the first shoulder past the threads is for the brake pedal, the second is for the hydroboost arm(not turned to the exact size to allow it to move side to side, keeps it from binding). then the large shoulder with the flat sides is for holding the arm on and for holding while i tighten the nut, and ofcoarse the last section is to hold the brake pedal spring. Works great! very happy..
haha, yea mostly a hat rack,
Got the bushing worked out, the part number from sor.com #289-55-A (which is a 1 1/8 OD and a 9/16 ID). The springs are in my shop right now and look great, im gonna hang them once i get my bushings and then mount my trac bar, shock mounts and then the ebrake cables.
I ordered rear quarter panels and my gas tank and a few other cosmetic stuff. I basically got everything in on monday but the quarter panels(which is what i really want). Ive got a friend (Will Carter, Raced 52x in the 09' KOH) who has a line-x business thats fixin to open in burlington in a few weeks, and he is gonna spray the tub for me. So im trying to get the body work done before i go back to school.