15b/15bfte engine swap (6 Viewers)

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I know this is an older thread but I've been reading more about 15B's and came back to it.

I'm still not totally sure how all of the throttle linkages work on the different iterations of the 15B. In that first video I posted you can clearly see the guy revving the engine up and down using something that goes down into the intake tract. I don't see anything else connected to that, either. You can also clearly see the PCV hose goes into the intake right there too, so they must be using some sort of vacuum there to pull out crankcase pressure. Although that was an N/A 15B so perfectly feasible. But it just adds support to the idea that there might be a vacuum-operated IP on a 15B.

Of course in the second video, that 15B has the style that's on the side of the intake and then connects to the IP down below.

Weird.
 
It may be a pneumatic governor like 2H, 3B and other engines of that era used. There's a butterfly in the intake and vacuum lines above and below the butterfly running to the governor. The pressure differential above and below acts on a diaphragm attached to the fuel rack and throttles the engine accordingly.
 
It may be a pneumatic governor like 2H, 3B and other engines of that era used. There's a butterfly in the intake and vacuum lines above and below the butterfly running to the governor. The pressure differential above and below acts on a diaphragm attached to the fuel rack and throttles the engine accordingly.
Right, that's what I was saying. Seems odd though because @myusername said he hadn't seen a governor setup like that on anything of that era.
 
Right, that's what I was saying. Seems odd though because @myusername said he hadn't seen a governor setup like that on anything of that era.
My 15BFT has a bell crank up on the intake, no butterfly, which has a mechanical linkage down to the in-line injection pump. Vacuum lines were for the shut down solenoid on the IP, boost reference, and throttle up (AC/PS)

15BF are usually rotary pump. I haven't looked at the linkage in person, but I think the cable connects to the top of a shaft on the intake which has a butterfly, and the bottom of the shaft has a linkage to the IP. People have removed the butterfly when fitting a turbo with no reported issues.

Long story short, any of the mechanical pump versions should be relatively simple to hook up to an accelerator cable. If the linkage is missing a custom cable can likely be extended down directly to the IP with some basic geometry to optimise the response.
 
I've got a question about the relative complexity between the 15BFT and the 15BFTE. The non-electronic version is preferred for its simplicity, but I don't really see anything that explains what the added complexity of the E-version involves.

I expect it's got throttle-by-wire, right? Auto trans controls? What else? Could it splice into an existing wiring harness, or are the changes too radical and you just have to re-wire the whole truck?
 
I've got a question about the relative complexity between the 15BFT and the 15BFTE. The non-electronic version is preferred for its simplicity, but I don't really see anything that explains what the added complexity of the E-version involves.

I expect it's got throttle-by-wire, right? Auto trans controls? What else? Could it splice into an existing wiring harness, or are the changes too radical and you just have to re-wire the whole truck?
First of all the majority of vehicles that have an FTE also have 24V electrical systems. So if you're looking to swap it into a chassis with a 12V electrical system, that's gonna present a lot of headaches. Secondly, the EDC pump is completely electronic; it cannot run without the right controller. Injection timing and duration are controlled by solenoids, and so is the KSB (cold start assist) mechanism. @GTSSportCoupe might be able to add some more insight as I know he found the electronic manual for the FTE recently and I assume he's been going through it.
 
I've got a question about the relative complexity between the 15BFT and the 15BFTE. The non-electronic version is preferred for its simplicity, but I don't really see anything that explains what the added complexity of the E-version involves.

I expect it's got throttle-by-wire, right? Auto trans controls? What else? Could it splice into an existing wiring harness, or are the changes too radical and you just have to re-wire the whole truck?

I've read quite a bit of the manual for the 15BFTE, and also follow a facebook group that shares info on these motors.

My understanding is, the electronics of the 15BFTE are very similar to a 1HDFTE. Apparently very similar to a 2LTE/1KZTE also; just a bit newer. To be honest, I think if one had the 15BFTE full harness and ECU, it would not be too hard to hook the motor up and get it running. 15BFTE injection pump has the capability of making the most power out of any of the 15B motors. 15BFTE also has some mechanical strength improvements over the earlier motors too.

First of all the majority of vehicles that have an FTE also have 24V electrical systems. So if you're looking to swap it into a chassis with a 12V electrical system, that's gonna present a lot of headaches. Secondly, the EDC pump is completely electronic; it cannot run without the right controller. Injection timing and duration are controlled by solenoids, and so is the KSB (cold start assist) mechanism. @GTSSportCoupe might be able to add some more insight as I know he found the electronic manual for the FTE recently and I assume he's been going through it.

Putting a 15BFTE into one of the 24V trucks would definitely be easier (HZJ77 for example). My plan for my LJ78 would probably be to run 24V for the engine, and a big/efficient 12V DC/DC converter for the rest of the truck. As the LJ78 shares a lot with the HZJ77; it might not be that hard to convert the whole truck to 24V too. They share the same wiring manual; I've been meaning to look at the differences in detail.
 
I've read quite a bit of the manual for the 15BFTE, and also follow a facebook group that shares info on these motors.

My understanding is, the electronics of the 15BFTE are very similar to a 1HDFTE. Apparently very similar to a 2LTE/1KZTE also; just a bit newer. To be honest, I think if one had the 15BFTE full harness and ECU, it would not be too hard to hook the motor up and get it running. 15BFTE injection pump has the capability of making the most power out of any of the 15B motors. 15BFTE also has some mechanical strength improvements over the earlier motors too.



Putting a 15BFTE into one of the 24V trucks would definitely be easier (HZJ77 for example). My plan for my LJ78 would probably be to run 24V for the engine, and a big/efficient 12V DC/DC converter for the rest of the truck. As the LJ78 shares a lot with the HZJ77; it might not be that hard to convert the whole truck to 24V too. They share the same wiring manual; I've been meaning to look at the differences in detail.
I apologise for only having skim read, I'm just about to head out.

The 15BF's are often 24V, but just about everything can be swapped over from a 12V 3B. The mechanical IP means it's a 2 wire engine to make it run; starter and ignition power to the shutdown VSV.

The FTE needs more wiring, likely requires a converter to run the computer at 24V, etc.

I'm putting my 15BFT in a 40 series, the mechanical IP version is not only a simpler swap that fits the ethos of the vehicle, but inline mechanical IP's are not fussy when it comes to fuel so a good option considering the way fossil fuels are going. If fuel taxes go up there's always good old veg oil ;)
 
I apologise for only having skim read, I'm just about to head out.

The 15BF's are often 24V, but just about everything can be swapped over from a 12V 3B. The mechanical IP means it's a 2 wire engine to make it run; starter and ignition power to the shutdown VSV.

The FTE needs more wiring, likely requires a converter to run the computer at 24V, etc.

I'm putting my 15BFT in a 40 series, the mechanical IP version is not only a simpler swap that fits the ethos of the vehicle, but inline mechanical IP's are not fussy when it comes to fuel so a good option considering the way fossil fuels are going. If fuel taxes go up there's always good old veg oil ;)

Definitely the 24V problem is easier to overcome on the mechanical injection variant. Those motors are in high demand though, and seem hard to find. They also have likely had a long hard life in a Dyna/Coaster.

Electronic injection version definitely needs 24V for the computer to run. But they seem easier to find as people are more hesitant about the motors. The Megacruiser version can be found with really low km and well maintained. They also come with an A443 transmission and 80 series like T-Case; so are nearly ready to go if a person is ok with auto.
 
Definitely the 24V problem is easier to overcome on the mechanical injection variant. Those motors are in high demand though, and seem hard to find. They also have likely had a long hard life in a Dyna/Coaster.

Electronic injection version definitely needs 24V for the computer to run. But they seem easier to find as people are more hesitant about the motors. The Megacruiser version can be found with really low km and well maintained. They also come with an A443 transmission and 80 series like T-Case; so are nearly ready to go if a person is ok with auto.
In Australia, the 15BF aren't too hard to get a hold of locally from Dynas, 15BFT are all imported from coasters and don't get imported in large numbers, 15BFTE aren't super common but there are some around.

15BF is probably the majority of the swaps here with the rest being FT and FTE variants.
 
Hi, GtSSportCoupe I wondered if you had an ecu wiring diagram or pinout for the 15b-fte, im considering this engine but just want to look at the wiring requirements.
 
Hi, GtSSportCoupe I wondered if you had an ecu wiring diagram or pinout for the 15b-fte, im considering this engine but just want to look at the wiring requirements.

Here's the manuals I've managed to find:



 
Hi, GtSSportCoupe I wondered if you had an ecu wiring diagram or pinout for the 15b-fte, im considering this engine but just want to look at the wiring requirements.

And this one too:

 

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