15b/15bfte engine swap (2 Viewers)

[bj70cruzer]

Hi guys i have a bj70 with a 3b engine that may need a rebuild in the near future, which has got me thinking if i get a 15b diesel for a reasnoble price i may go down this path.

But i have a few questions regarding the 15b as i cannot find much information

I have heard and seen a few conversion but havnt come across much in terms of powrr figure. Is anyone boosting these engines for decent power. What is the most i can get out of one with standard pump and aftermarket turbo?

Also what is prefered the 15b or 15btfe? The later being ecu controlled do i need to remove the ecu and wiring from the truck it come from? And hiw do you tune the ecu for more power.?


Thanks

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

15BF is the normally aspirated one. People do add turbos to them. I've heard no complaint in power either way. 15BFT is the mechanical injection turbo one. It is the most desirable as it has the least wiring. 15BFTE is the electronic one; I have not seen anyone use this one, but it is a heck of a motor. I wouldn't touch it unless you're good with EFI systems AND you can find the schematics for it. Also, you'll need to get the wiring harness, ECU, fuse boxes etc. with it, or you will go broke trying to find that stuff later.

It's always been my dream to put one of these (from a megacruiser) into my LJ78. No time tho.

@gotoy put one into his KZJ71. There is a build thread on here somewhere.

 

[bj70cruzer]

From what im researching all the 15b series are 16 valve not just the fte.

Does this sound correct?

Thanks

 

[AussieHJCruza]

I don't think a 15B was made, it would be a 15B-F; 4 valves per cylinder. If you don't like the idea of getting an FTE to run, get the F and turbo it, to my knowledge there aren't any internal differences between 15B-F and the factory turbo versions.

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

From what im researching all the 15b series are 16 valve not just the fte.

Does this sound correct?

Thanks

Yes, I think they're all 16 valve. Sorry, I missed the -F on 15B. (F is Toyota's nomenclature for narrow valve angle 4 valve per cylinder).

I don't think a 15B was made, it would be a 15B-F; 4 valves per cylinder. If you don't like the idea of getting an FTE to run, get the F and turbo it, to my knowledge there aren't any internal differences between 15B-F and the factory turbo versions.

Fixed.

 

[bj70cruzer]

I wonder if the 15bf has a 12mm rotary pump and if different model cary in size (between the dyna, coater ,hino)

I have heard the 15bft has a inline pump? hard to believe being a newer generation diesel

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

I wonder if the 15bf has a 12mm rotary pump and if different model cary in size (between the dyna, coater ,hino)

I have heard the 15bft has a inline pump? hard to believe being a newer generation diesel

You could talk to this guy. He was selling some low km units out of megacruisers. I thought his price was excellent. For Sale - JDM engines: Mitsubishi 4M40 / Toyota 15B-FT, 15B-FTE

 

[wormfood]

The 15B-FT can have either the inline or the rotary pump, it just depends on the year and application. I think the inline pumps were mostly on Coasters in certain markets, the majority seem to be rotary pumps.

 

[myusername]

Review from an Aussie point of view:

1 - Direct injection
5B - Model 5 B motor
F - Four valves per cylinder
T - Factory Turbo
E - Electronic injection pump (IP)

15BF - common in Dyna trucks in Australia. NA, rotary IP
15BFT - available as import mostly Coaster bus, but also Megacruiser (military), Dyna truck etc. Only version with an inline IP (to me it looks like 4cyl version of 12HT pump, haven't compared up close)
15BFTE - usually from coaster bus, rotary electronic IP and different turbo to the 15BFT

Buy a 15BF if you don't want to deal with the electronics, and want to modify for power (turbo, etc)
Buy a 15BFT if you don't want electronics, happy to run stock small (CT12B?) turbo, happy to do mechanical mods for fitment (sump, pickup)
Buy a 15BFTE if you're happy to deal with the electrics and mechanical mods to suit, 15BFTE highest factory output and should be most capable for tuning

Dyna truck rear hump sump will need wings chopped off and welded to fit, or mod a 3B sump to suit
Coaster sumps are front hump with wings. Need to rob a pickup and sump off a 3B and modify (weld over ~6 front holes, cut to clear the pully guard, drill new holes to suit 15B pattern)

Flywheels are 8 bolt (not 6 bolt like B/3B etc) come in 330mm? and 360mm? The large flywheel won't fit in a landcruiser bellhousing. Small one will, BJ74 clutch suits but will need some grinding if using a 40 series cast iron bellhousing, should fit fine in an alloy one. Use the bellhousing, starter, and other associated parts from your 3B. 8 bolt flywheel off a 3BII, 13BT, 14BT etc may fit.

Engine mounts from 15B series are too large, use original mounts from the 3B.

24V ancillaries have to be swapped out, 1HZ alternator fits a 15BFT with a different length belt. Not sure about options for the others. 12HT VSV is suitable for the 15BFT vac operated shutdown. All the sensors off a 3B should swap straight on.

Thermostat housing top can be swapped with other B series to change direction (varies on 3B etc by whether power steering is fitted or not). Lower rad hose off a BJ74 may suit. Be careful as the water pumps for B's will all mount to the block but they're all different lengths to the fan/pulley mounting flange.

Let me know if you have any questions. I'm doing a 15BFT swap at the moment, would probably just get a 15BF if I was to do it again.

 

[FJBen]

Great info @myusername
If my 13BT has something catastrophic happen (oh I sure hope not ever!) Its nice to know a 15BFT swap is a fairly straight forward power upgrade for it.

Curious as to why you would only do the 15B vs 15BF again? I'd almost lean towards the electronic version as electronics don't scare me too much. I did a DIY GM fuel injection before and that worked well. Wire fun...

 

[myusername]

Curious as to why you would only do the 15B vs 15BF again? I'd almost lean towards the electronic version as electronics don't scare me too much. I did a DIY GM fuel injection before and that worked well. Wire fun...

I've just finished tearing the loom apart and repairing melting lighting wires front to back from a PO, the less wiring to do the better! I like the rudimentary nature of the BJ42, the 15BFT is a simplistic old diesel with an inline pump and is in keeping with the somewhat agricultural simplicity of the 40 series but with a bit more modern performance.

The 15BF is a cheaper, more common engine and can be locally sourced. Easier conversion as it already has rear hump sump and potentially the smaller flywheel (15BFT usually have the 2 piece bellhousing and large flywheel). 8 bolt 330mm flywheels are very expensive to import, and not super easy to source locally. The savings compared to a 15BFT (both in purchase price and the additional parts/mods req'd) would buy a decent turbo and materials to make a manifold, and they're reportedly easy to increase fuel on (a mate has a 15BFT and he reckons he's maxed out his fuel and still below 15PSI). The factory 15BFT turbo (CT12B?) is small, so if you want to turn up the fuel and boost you'd be upgrading to a new turbo and manifold anyway.

I'm planning on driving to the Victorian High Country and head down to Tasmania at some point, so knowing that the engine doesn't rely on any electronics to run is a big plus. Fuel cut is vsv/vac/mechanical so if it won't run it's either a fuel issue or its broken!

 

[FJBen]

I've just finished tearing the loom apart and repairing melting lighting wires front to back from a PO, the less wiring to do the better! I like the rudimentary nature of the BJ42, the 15BFT is a simplistic old diesel with an inline pump and is in keeping with the somewhat agricultural simplicity of the 40 series but with a bit more modern performance.

The 15BF is a cheaper, more common engine and can be locally sourced. Easier conversion as it already has rear hump sump and potentially the smaller flywheel (15BFT usually have the 2 piece bellhousing and large flywheel). 8 bolt 330mm flywheels are very expensive to import, and not super easy to source locally. The savings compared to a 15BFT (both in purchase price and the additional parts/mods req'd) would buy a decent turbo and materials to make a manifold, and they're reportedly easy to increase fuel on (a mate has a 15BFT and he reckons he's maxed out his fuel and still below 15PSI). The factory 15BFT turbo (CT12B?) is small, so if you want to turn up the fuel and boost you'd be upgrading to a new turbo and manifold anyway.

I'm planning on driving to the Victorian High Country and head down to Tasmania at some point, so knowing that the engine doesn't rely on any electronics to run is a big plus. Fuel cut is vsv/vac/mechanical so if it won't run it's either a fuel issue or its broken!

Excellent info. Thanks mate!

 

[mocha0923]

I've just finished tearing the loom apart and repairing melting lighting wires front to back from a PO, the less wiring to do the better! I like the rudimentary nature of the BJ42, the 15BFT is a simplistic old diesel with an inline pump and is in keeping with the somewhat agricultural simplicity of the 40 series but with a bit more modern performance.

The 15BF is a cheaper, more common engine and can be locally sourced. Easier conversion as it already has rear hump sump and potentially the smaller flywheel (15BFT usually have the 2 piece bellhousing and large flywheel). 8 bolt 330mm flywheels are very expensive to import, and not super easy to source locally. The savings compared to a 15BFT (both in purchase price and the additional parts/mods req'd) would buy a decent turbo and materials to make a manifold, and they're reportedly easy to increase fuel on (a mate has a 15BFT and he reckons he's maxed out his fuel and still below 15PSI). The factory 15BFT turbo (CT12B?) is small, so if you want to turn up the fuel and boost you'd be upgrading to a new turbo and manifold anyway.

I'm planning on driving to the Victorian High Country and head down to Tasmania at some point, so knowing that the engine doesn't rely on any electronics to run is a big plus. Fuel cut is vsv/vac/mechanical so if it won't run it's either a fuel issue or its broken!

We're on the process of installing a 15BFT on my FJ45 frame. The intention is to test run the engine after fixing it to the chassis to make it sure everything works. The flywheel is 330mm with inline IP, and the alternator installed is 24V. I plan to use 12V system. The fan belt setup I've got have an AC compressor located at the passenger side of the engine and below the alternator. Judging from how the belt set-up, it appears the engine I got is for General Region and Europe (I suspect it was used in China). Would you please tell me, if you know, what starter I can use or what particular engine I could source (Toyota 12V P/N 28100-56310 for Coaster). Some folks told me I can use the 2L starter. My second question; is there any electrical connection to the IP in order to run the engine for testing? I saw some wirings but not sure yet if this is just for vacuum switching. I would really appreciate if you could specify things to connect to run the engine. Is B or 3B starter fit to the original backplate? Thank so much.

 

[myusername]

We're on the process of installing a 15BFT on my FJ45 frame. The intention is to test run the engine after fixing it to the chassis to make it sure everything works. The flywheel is 330mm with inline IP, and the alternator installed is 24V. I plan to use 12V system. The fan belt setup I've got have an AC compressor located at the passenger side of the engine and below the alternator. Judging from how the belt set-up, it appears the engine I got is for General Region and Europe (I suspect it was used in China). Would you please tell me, if you know, what starter I can use or what particular engine I could source (Toyota 12V P/N 28100-56310 for Coaster). Some folks told me I can use the 2L starter. My second question; is there any electrical connection to the IP in order to run the engine for testing? I saw some wirings but not sure yet if this is just for vacuum switching. I would really appreciate if you could specify things to connect to run the engine. Is B or 3B starter fit to the original backplate? Thank so much.

My 12V swapped alternator on the ex-coaster 15BFT is a dual row pulley 12v 1HZ one from memory, mounts straight up but the adjuster to mounting angle is slightly different so longer belts are required - measure to suit.

Was it a 360mm version originally then swapped to a 330mm? I don't think I've seen an inline mech IP 15BFT with the small flywheel. Does it have the big gooseneck outlet from a (CT12B?) turbo?

The starter needs to match the bellhousing you're using. If you have a setup that bolts together and just need to swap out a 24V starter, you can use the mounting piece off the 24V starter and swap a 12V motor piece onto it. Ideally, the 15B swaps are suited to a B engine landcruiser as all of the B/3B series stuff bolts to the 15B engines if 330mm bellhousing is fitted ((bellhousing, tacho, clutch, starter, B spline gearbox etc). NB: the B series bellhousings suit the B series gearboxes which have a different spline and length to the F/H/HZ engines.

Edit: found a pic of belts. This size wasn't available in a matched pair but it appears I was supplied two adjacent belts from the manufacturing process. With the 1HZ alternator slacked off I can just slip these on, so the next size up is probably ideal.

I think it's a Bosch BXD1217N 12V to suit an 80/100 series 1HZ and I have the high mount alternator style, please confirm it will suit your application before ordering as the low mount setups are different.

 

[myusername]

I would really appreciate if you could specify things to connect to run the engine. Is B or 3B starter fit to the original backplate? Thank so much.

If it's a mech pump inline IP with no butterfly on the intake, the only hard part to starting it is bleeding the air. The inline IP has a vac actuator to stop, so it's obvious how to stop the engine - pull the rod/lever in the direction the vac actuator would pull it. With no vac line fitted to the actuator I think it will just sit in the run position.

You don't need anything else to start it from memory if it's inline IP, it shouldn't need to be glowed if it's above freezing as it's direct injection. Just be aware that the larger bore primer pump mounted on the fuel filter on the intake manifold works differently to usual as it's not down on the IP like other Toyota diesels. Might need to bleed like brakes - open and close the bleeder unlike the ones on the IP which you can just pump due to the valves in the lift pump stopping backflow. The primer will also likely leak if you open it and then refuse to seal again based on my experience with old toyota primers and the one on my 15BFT, and is not compatible with any aftermarket ones I found, so beware.

 

[myusername]

My second question; is there any electrical connection to the IP in order to run the engine for testing? I saw some wirings but not sure yet if this is just for vacuum switching.

If the inline IP has a single plug on it, I think that's the Coaster's tacho sender for RPM and isn't required - you'd likely need a custom setup to read the signal/pulses from it as the Coaster gauge cluster is a multifunction unit and not a separate tacho.

Vac switching is easily set up with a 12V VSV off a 12HT. Mine didn't come with any of that fitted.

*Maybe make your own thread with pics of your setup, just realised I've been spamming the OP's notifications!*

 

[mocha0923]

My 12V swapped alternator on the ex-coaster 15BFT is a dual row pulley 12v 1HZ one from memory, mounts straight up but the adjuster to mounting angle is slightly different so longer belts are required - measure to suit.

Was it a 360mm version originally then swapped to a 330mm? I don't think I've seen an inline mech IP 15BFT with the small flywheel. Does it have the big gooseneck outlet from a (CT12B?) turbo?

The starter needs to match the bellhousing you're using. If you have a setup that bolts together and just need to swap out a 24V starter, you can use the mounting piece off the 24V starter and swap a 12V motor piece onto it. Ideally, the 15B swaps are suited to a B engine landcruiser as all of the B/3B series stuff bolts to the 15B engines if 330mm bellhousing is fitted ((bellhousing, tacho, clutch, starter, B spline gearbox etc). NB: the B series bellhousings suit the B series gearboxes which have a different spline and length to the F/H/HZ engines.

Edit: found a pic of belts. This size wasn't available in a matched pair but it appears I was supplied two adjacent belts from the manufacturing process. With the 1HZ alternator slacked off I can just slip these on, so the next size up is probably ideal.

I think it's a Bosch BXD1217N 12V to suit an 80/100 series 1HZ and I have the high mount alternator style, please confirm it will suit your application before ordering as the low mount setups are different.

View attachment 2544250

First thing first, thanks so much for quick reply. My 15B-FT got from a seller is bare engine with no attached starter but with 24V double row pulley and an AC compressor. The IP is 22100-5C350 (straight type). For the flywheel diameter, this is what I got and not so sure if the previous owner replaced it to 330mm. See attached turbo pics for reference.

I used aluminum bellhousing from 70 series and H55F. However, the 3B 12V starter (PN 28100-56110) I have doesn't fit as the starter housing bang with the engine block. I will try the 12V starter intended for 1HDT/1HZ and will let you know the outcome. My feed pump is on the fuel filter housing but the acceleration lever appears to be different from what I saw for 22100-5C350 model.

Is the oem double acting hydrovac will interfere to intake manifold? How much clearance you realized (FJ40?) from the firewall to the engine block?

 

[myusername]

My 15B-FT got from a seller is bare engine with no attached starter but with 24V double row pulley and an AC compressor. The IP is 22100-5C350 (straight type). For the flywheel diameter, this is what I got and not so sure if the previous owner replaced it to 330mm. See attached turbo pics for reference.

Sure looks like a Coaster 15BFT to me. Mine had the larger flywheel and half of the two piece bellhousing setup. I took that off and fit a smaller flywheel and the old 3B bellhousing and associated components. The 8 bolt smaller flywheels are hard to find, so if you have the right one you're lucky! NB, my 15BFT came with a front hump sump, and you'll likely need a rear hump sump and associated internal oil pickup for diff clearance. A 3B sump can be modded to fit (just weld the front holes, grind clearance, drill new holes) - NB: not all 3B sumps are the same so you need the matched pickup to avoid bottoming it out on the sump. A megacruiser sump is rear hump and potentially also larger capacity, but may be hard to source.

From what I've been told, that turbo shares a core with the 1KZ CT12B but the compressor housing and wastegate are different. YMMV. If it is tired, a replacement core from the 1KZ v version may be suitable, or there are large bore front housings from some aftermarket suppliers in Asia.

I used aluminum bellhousing from 70 series and H55F. However, the 3B 12V starter (PN 28100-56110) I have doesn't fit as the starter housing bang with the engine block. I will try the 12V starter intended for 1HDT/1HZ and will let you know the outcome.

You need the starter that went with that bellhousing, AFAIA nothing else will fit. Lots of toyota starters are 50% the same, but the piece that mounts to the bellhousing is model specific. You can actually swap the motor part over etc but have to be attentive as some may rotate other directions etc. I am confident you need the starter, or at least the piece that mounts to the bellhousing, that went with the bellhousing you have. The clutch fork and slave etc will also likely be specific to that bellhousing and should have been sourced at the same time. Is it a BJ7X bellhousing, clutch fork, slave, and B spline H55F that you're using? I would imagine these are not common parts in Texas unless coming from Canada or down south?

My feed pump is on the fuel filter housing but the acceleration lever appears to be different from what I saw for 22100-5C350 model.

Yeah, the feed pump is down there but the primer isn't, there's something in the way of the usual position of the primer on a toyota diesel, and I assume they also put it the primer up high on the intake manifold so that it can be reached from the top of the service hatch. What setup does yours have for the accelerator? Sometimes the wreckers remove the whole linkage so people jury-rig something down at the IP.

Red is the accelerator linkage, you can just see the bit at the top where you need to connect the throttle cable. Mine is missing some bits, and all of the idle up components.

Purple is the vacuum engine stop actuator from memory, just zoomed on old pic from my phone so sorry about poor angle etc. The 12V VSV from a 12HT is suitable for this from memory, so should be normally open (12V applies cuts of vacuum to that actuator, allowing the engine to start).

Also pictured is the 24V Coaster starter. I also have a BJ7X 3B starter and bellhousing setup somewhere in storage but it's a 24V starter. If you have a BJ7X bellhousing, you need to get on the EPC's and find a PN for the matching 12V BJ7X starter.

Is the oem double acting hydrovac will interfere to intake manifold? How much clearance you realized (FJ40?) from the firewall to the engine block?

In a 40 series the 15B series power steering reservoir needs to be moved for clearance to the firewall. It's tight but fits, the coaster 15bft manifold is smaller than some of the others! Mine is RHD, so can't help you re: brake booster / master clearance. Check out Harvard's conversion, from memory he has a thread on mud and this blog. I think he needed to move the proportioning valve or something RHD:

15B-F engine in a Land Cruiser BJ42

I was planning to put a 1HDT in my 42, but for many reasons i will not go into i ended up with a 15B-F. The 15B-F is a 4.1 litre 4 cylinder diesel engine. Often found in the big Dyna trucks, and al…

strandensgarage.wordpress.com

 

[Greek Cruiserhead]

Great thread, thank you folks!
Subscribed!

 

[mocha0923]

Sure looks like a Coaster 15BFT to me. Mine had the larger flywheel and half of the two piece bellhousing setup. I took that off and fit a smaller flywheel and the old 3B bellhousing and associated components. The 8 bolt smaller flywheels are hard to find, so if you have the right one you're lucky! NB, my 15BFT came with a front hump sump, and you'll likely need a rear hump sump and associated internal oil pickup for diff clearance. A 3B sump can be modded to fit (just weld the front holes, grind clearance, drill new holes) - NB: not all 3B sumps are the same so you need the matched pickup to avoid bottoming it out on the sump. A megacruiser sump is rear hump and potentially also larger capacity, but may be hard to source.

From what I've been told, that turbo shares a core with the 1KZ CT12B but the compressor housing and wastegate are different. YMMV. If it is tired, a replacement core from the 1KZ v version may be suitable, or there are large bore front housings from some aftermarket suppliers in Asia.



You need the starter that went with that bellhousing, AFAIA nothing else will fit. Lots of toyota starters are 50% the same, but the piece that mounts to the bellhousing is model specific. You can actually swap the motor part over etc but have to be attentive as some may rotate other directions etc. I am confident you need the starter, or at least the piece that mounts to the bellhousing, that went with the bellhousing you have. The clutch fork and slave etc will also likely be specific to that bellhousing and should have been sourced at the same time. Is it a BJ7X bellhousing, clutch fork, slave, and B spline H55F that you're using? I would imagine these are not common parts in Texas unless coming from Canada or down south?




Yeah, the feed pump is down there but the primer isn't, there's something in the way of the usual position of the primer on a toyota diesel, and I assume they also put it the primer up high on the intake manifold so that it can be reached from the top of the service hatch. What setup does yours have for the accelerator? Sometimes the wreckers remove the whole linkage so people jury-rig something down at the IP.

View attachment 2544763

Red is the accelerator linkage, you can just see the bit at the top where you need to connect the throttle cable. Mine is missing some bits, and all of the idle up components.

Purple is the vacuum engine stop actuator from memory, just zoomed on old pic from my phone so sorry about poor angle etc. The 12V VSV from a 12HT is suitable for this from memory, so should be normally open (12V applies cuts of vacuum to that actuator, allowing the engine to start).

Also pictured is the 24V Coaster starter. I also have a BJ7X 3B starter and bellhousing setup somewhere in storage but it's a 24V starter. If you have a BJ7X bellhousing, you need to get on the EPC's and find a PN for the matching 12V BJ7X starter.



In a 40 series the 15B series power steering reservoir needs to be moved for clearance to the firewall. It's tight but fits, the coaster 15bft manifold is smaller than some of the others! Mine is RHD, so can't help you re: brake booster / master clearance. Check out Harvard's conversion, from memory he has a thread on mud and this blog. I think he needed to move the proportioning valve or something RHD:

15B-F engine in a Land Cruiser BJ42

I was planning to put a 1HDT in my 42, but for many reasons i will not go into i ended up with a 15B-F. The 15B-F is a 4.1 litre 4 cylinder diesel engine. Often found in the big Dyna trucks, and al…

strandensgarage.wordpress.com

Everything you said is true and the pictures you referred above with accelerator linkages are exactly what I have. Now, I confidently say my motor is from Coaster (BB50?). For the bellhousing, yes I bought from Ih8mud member and it came from BJ7x. Thanks so much, it surely help!