14BT injector pump help (1 Viewer)

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Sep 15, 2014
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Location
Mandurah Western Australia
I'm a noobie to this forum and 4WD's and need some help. Cheers

I'm currently swapping the 3B11 out for a 14BT in my BJ70 cruiser.

I'm scratching my head what to do as there seems to be 3 fuel connections on the injector pump. My old Injector pump simply had a feed line and a return line.

Also it has an electrical fitting on the injector pump and my old one didn't so i'm not 100% on what to do there. I's it like fuel cut off?

Then once ive got them sorted ill have to adjust the injector pump timing and i dont know what to go by. I know there is markings on the injector pump its self but i cant see any on the gear housing it connects to. Can i do it with the engine running?
Will it damage the engine if its to far out straight away?
Will you be able to hear when its spot on?

Hope someone can give me some pointers.
 
ippump.jpg


hi, perhaps i can help. i have just installed this 15bft engine in my BJ75.
It seems to me that you are missing some pipes and / or the filter unit on top of the pump. on this pump you will see 4 open diesel fuellines.
the one on the upper part of the pump is a small hose carrying return overflow diesel from the injection nozzles down to be reused in the IP. ...... and continues underneath in a small hose to the fuel tank ( or T piece on your supplyline, homemade solution ), the 2 remaining open diesel connections are on the black supply pump on the side of the IP. The pipe piece pointing towards the red carboard box is your main supplyline from your fueltank ( probably comes from your water seperator which gets it from the fuel tank ;) ...from this pump it is pushed up through the open nut pointing upwards, which leads to the filter element, filtered and the return to be send directly in to the IP through the inlet closest o the no. 1 injection piston/pipe/outlet. actually.....there is like 5 open diesel holes on this pictuer.... se my next picture.... also
ippump.jpg
ippumpnear.jpg

hope this helps..... and yes, the electric wiring is to shut off the engine.... electric shut off valve...no power no diesel.... simple. hope this was a help for you. the metalpipe next to the red wire is going up to the dieselfilter and the other one above it is going in to the IP pump carrying clean fuel.......
 
or....you are using a rotor pump....which means this is absolutely of no use for you....;) .... magnet valve is still right i belive..
 
I'm a noobie to this forum and 4WD's and need some help. Cheers

I'm currently swapping the 3B11 out for a 14BT in my BJ70 cruiser.

I'm scratching my head what to do as there seems to be 3 fuel connections on the injector pump. My old Injector pump simply had a feed line and a return line.

Also it has an electrical fitting on the injector pump and my old one didn't so i'm not 100% on what to do there. I's it like fuel cut off?

Then once ive got them sorted ill have to adjust the injector pump timing and i dont know what to go by. I know there is markings on the injector pump its self but i cant see any on the gear housing it connects to. Can i do it with the engine running?
Will it damage the engine if its to far out straight away?
Will you be able to hear when its spot on?

Hope someone can give me some pointers.

The electrical fitting will almost certainly be a fuel cut solenoid,all the denso rotary pumps seem to have them.To test them they need to make an audible click when 12v or 24 v is applied. You can connect them direct to a battery for temporary starting or testing.

Some rotary pumps also have tacho pick up with wires like the one in the pic below.

Do you have any pics of the fuel outlets? I just looked at some 1HZ rotary pump pics,they also seem to have the 3 pipes coming off the fuel inlet,so Im sure AN answer is not far away.
 
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Like this ?
IMG_7755-1024x854.png
 
or....you are using a rotor pump....which means this is absolutely of no use for you....;) .... magnet valve is still right i belive..
or....you are using a rotor pump....which means this is absolutely of no use for you....;) .... magnet valve is still right i belive..
Yeah it is a rotary sorry I should have been more specific
or....you are using a rotor pump....which means this is absolutely of no use for you....;) .... magnet valve is still right i belive..
 
The electrical fitting will almost certainly be a fuel cut solenoid,all the denso rotary pumps seem to have them.To test them they need to make an audible click when 12v or 24 v is applied. You can connect them direct to a battery for temporary starting or testing.

Some rotary pumps also have tacho pick up with wires like the one in the pic below.

Do you have any pics of the fuel outlets? I just looked at some 1HZ rotary pump pics,they also seem to have the 3 pipes coming off the fuel inlet,so Im sure AN answer is not far away.

I dont have any pics of mine at the moment.

Yeah it looks alot like that rotory pump but not completely the same.
Well with the fuel cut off solenoid i could just wire it up to the ignition and earth, that would work yeah?

And yes its the top fuel outlet (the one with the hose in this pic) that i dont know where it goes. I had been trying to find other pics to relate to so i might look for the 1HZ rotory pump setup also. Its a more popular engine so should be easy to find some detailed pics of the lines connected to relate to. So cheers for that to

Use wouldn't happen to know much about the Injector pump timing do use?
 
I dont have any pics of mine at the moment.

Yeah it looks alot like that rotory pump but not completely the same.
Well with the fuel cut off solenoid i could just wire it up to the ignition and earth, that would work yeah?
Yes , providing they both are running the same voltage. I did it this way when I put the 1HZ into my petrol landcruiser.

And yes its the top fuel outlet (the one with the hose in this pic) that i dont know where it goes. I had been trying to find other pics to relate to so i might look for the 1HZ rotory pump setup also. Its a more popular engine so should be easy to find some detailed pics of the lines connected to relate to. So cheers for that to

I just went and had a look at my 1HZ. This hose is the return to tank fuel line. If you dont have a 3 outlet tank pick up ,you can fit one from an appropriate model like a HZJ75,probably the rear tank would be better.
The small outlet that points down on mine has nothing connected to it.
The other one is for the overflow from the injectors.



[
Use wouldn't happen to know much about the Injector pump timing do use?
Are you sure there are no marks? On the 1HZ there are alignment marks on the pump and mounting position.
Do you have a 14B manual?
 
Did this pump come with the engine?
 
I got the engine from the wreckers and i was told its 24V same as my cruiser.
I was also told the injector pump had been reconditioned and yeah it came with the engine.
Alright well ill be changing the tank anyway to a 155L long range so i can do the lines then.
Well i chipped away at the paint thats on the where the injector pump connects to and i couldn't see any marks, then saying that i didn't do a large area and the injector pump can be rotated quite a bit. There is makings on the injector pump so it would make sense to have other markings to relate with.
Do the markings line up together on your 1HZ? im pretty sure there was 3 markings on my injector pump, perhaps to advance or retard the injecting timing maybe.
 
Yeah , the markings line up on a 1HZ,quite easy to see. Maybe ask the wreckers or an injection shop.Pumps are roughly vertical when in the correct position.
The amount of advancement or retarding a pump needs is miniscule. A mechanic told me he moves them a tiny bit to make up for old age if they need it.

Are these pumps belt or cog driven?
 
Yeah , the markings line up on a 1HZ,quite easy to see. Maybe ask the wreckers or an injection shop.Pumps are roughly vertical when in the correct position.
The amount of advancement or retarding a pump needs is miniscule. A mechanic told me he moves them a tiny bit to make up for old age if they need it.

Are these pumps belt or cog driven?

Alright well yeah ill just chip the paint off, there has to be markings somewhere.

Gear driven. Lucky they can't be put in wrong. The splines only go in one way.
So if I moved the pump heaps it would be bad in other words?
 
So if I moved the pump heaps it would be bad in other words?

The pump pretty much stays aligned to thiose marks for its entire life. I have never rotated a pump to see how far it would go before stalling. I guess its a bit like rotating a distributor on a petrol engine.
 
On my old 1965 Series 2A landrover diesel I used to have to keep rotating my injector pump (and filing out the adjustment slots too to allow for still-more twist) to maintain the correct timing (to eliminate seeing white unburnt-fuel smoke from my exhaust).

But here we're talking massively-inferior engineering compared to anything I've ever seen on any Land Cruiser!

(Twas a rotary/distributor-type pump rather than a quality inline pump)
 
On my old 1965 Series 2A landrover diesel I used to have to keep rotating my injector pump (and filing out the adjustment slots too to allow for still-more twist) to maintain the correct timing (to eliminate seeing white unburnt-fuel smoke from my exhaust).

But here we're talking massively-inferior engineering compared to anything I've ever seen on any Land Cruiser!

(Twas a rotary/distributor-type pump rather than a quality inline pump)

This is what my fuel injection fixer told me,but I think he was talking 1mm in regard to Toyotas
 
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On the pic looking down with the blue blob, I can see what looks like a match mark on the pump and possibly another on the timing cover. That is what they look like on my 1HZ pump.
They are in the centre ,rather than off to one side of the flange.

If the nuts and washers have left a mark on the pump flange,it may give you an idea an approximate idea of where the pump was fitted before.
 
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Sorry for the late reply. I spent plenty of time on the cruiser and glad to say its all up and running now. Once i cranked the engine over i could then only move the injector pump a mm either way which didn't seem to make much difference. Its still a little bit off, when taking off with the revs low it will take a couple seconds for the revs to even move, that and there is a bit of smoke. Not sure if a fresh rebuilt diesel smokes a bit until the rings seat properly or if it just needs tuning
 
I'm a noobie to this forum and 4WD's and need some help. Cheers

I'm currently swapping the 3B11 out for a 14BT in my BJ70 cruiser.

I'm scratching my head what to do as there seems to be 3 fuel connections on the injector pump. My old Injector pump simply had a feed line and a return line.

Also it has an electrical fitting on the injector pump and my old one didn't so i'm not 100% on what to do there. I's it like fuel cut off?

Then once ive got them sorted ill have to adjust the injector pump timing and i dont know what to go by. I know there is markings on the injector pump its self but i cant see any on the gear housing it connects to. Can i do it with the engine running?
Will it damage the engine if its to far out straight away?
Will you be able to hear when its spot on?

Hope someone can give me some pointers.

Hi all ive just put a reconditioned 14bt into my BJ74. Does anyone have the specs for setting the rotary fuel pump timing? its a denso VE 096000-6190 fuel pump. any help would be appreciated.
Cheers
 

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