interesting thread, i am also installing a 'autometer sportcomp' egt guage into my 13B-t, i am planning on goin post turbo due to an easier installation, so general consensus is about a 200 degree difference between pre and post turbo ?
13B-T Pyro Temps
- Thread starter boogie74
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #22
Yep thats right. I use the 250F rule just to be safe. It takes a fairly heavy right foot to get to 1000F
I have a mate who drives B doubles and he says that they have the pyro probe installed post turbo
for safety reasons like probe tips breaking off and going though the turbo into the engine.
I have a mate who drives B doubles and he says that they have the pyro probe installed post turbo
for safety reasons like probe tips breaking off and going though the turbo into the engine.
- Joined
- Oct 31, 2007
- Threads
- 7
- Messages
- 122
- Location
- Garden Route, ZA
- Website
- landcruiser.synthasite.com
Boogie74, to answer your Q,
- Currently running a max of 60kpa ( ± 8.7psi), but the pump has been serviced & recalibrated. Also done the compression rings and bearings, so need to keep it on "run-in"mode for a few more kilo's.
- Temps when pushing hard gets to 710C ( ± 1310F), wich is still not more than the genarally excepted temps of 725C ( 1337F) pre turbo. My normal cruising temps still is a bit high at 600-650C ( 1112-1202F). Would like to get them down to 500-550C ( 932-1022F).
- A2A, mounted infront of my radiator. My power is so much better after the injection pump service & calibration, thus can't wait to set the boost up a bit more with feul if neccassary.
intercoolers save engines consider them a filter as well, they stop probes, turbine fins all that great stuff from entering the engine
Not sure about this as the intercooler is on the intake side of the turbo, means probes that fail would be unaffected by the intercooler.
Posted this before check it out for yourself.
The complete article can be found at.
Banks Power | Why EGT is Important
This a part of the complete text, seems to address the concerns of what where and why of an EGT
We might mention that some mechanics fear installing the pyrometer thermocouple in the exhaust manifold for fear the probe will break or burn off and blow into the turbocharger. Such a piece of foreign material entering the turbine would cause serious damage that could in turn break the compressor wheel of the turbo, sending broken pieces into the intake system of the engine where even more damage could occur. While the above scenario is scary, it is also unlikely. Today's quality pyrometers feature thermocouples that are sheathed in stainless steel to prevent just such an occurrence. It is exceedingly rare to find a diesel mechanic that can honestly say he's ever seen a thermocouple that has failed and fallen into the turbo on a diesel pickup or motorhome. It just doesn't happen with a good pyrometer.
Whether the pyrometer thermocouple is mounted before or after the turbine is usually a matter of finding a suitable mounting location, or of convenience. It should be noted that when the EGT is measured after the turbine, the turbine outlet temperature at full throttle or under a heavy load typically would be 200º to 300º F. lower than the EGT measured in the exhaust manifold. The temperature drop after the turbo indicates the amount of heat energy in the total exhaust gas flow that was used to drive the turbocharger. The temperature drop through the turbine is also related to the total flow and speed of the flow through the turbo. At part throttle, under light load, such as cruise conditions, the turbine outlet EGT may be as much as 500º F. lower than the turbine inlet temperature, but the total exhaust flow is much less than at full throttle. At high turbine speeds (under heavy load) the exhaust gases simply don't have time to give up as much heat energy as they speed through the turbine. This variance is why installation of the thermocouple in the exhaust manifold is considered more accurate. The EGTs discussed in the remainder of this article will all be turbine inlet temperatures.
Boogie74 i have my pyro installed now, it is installed in pretty much the same spot as yours. Only finished it tonight and went for a quick run. Should be a good comparison since our cars are similar and in a similar enviroment.
Ambient temp was ~40c, peak 9psi boost, 33'' rubber, H55F, 4.11 diffs, Safari snorkel and a stock 2'' ( I think 2'' is stock?) exhaust with muffler removed.
What exhaust you have Boogie74?
Idling @ ~100C before driving & 215c after driving.
Cruising at 80KMH @ 375C in 5th gear
Gunning it from 30KMH to 70KMH @ 470C
Up a relatively long steepening hill about 30secs at 80KMH @ 545C in 4th gear hold full throttle for the last 10 seconds.
Most of the time boost did not hit maxium. Car needs a tune, most boost and a 3'' dump and exhaust. It is scary how fast they rise and fall. Even when changing gears the temp drops ~20c before engading the next gear and back onto the loud pedal and i'm not granny shifting it either. The drop VERY fast once off the power which is good.
I would hate to think how hot they have got at other time in the cars life, probably past 650 post turbo when I crossed the snowy mountains in 35c+ heat for a few hours with the temp guage very high and hodling the pedal flat for extended periods.
How has the accepted maxium of 550c post turbo come about? I feel I could EASILY go way past this, especially when the car was on stock fueling.
Ambient temp was ~40c, peak 9psi boost, 33'' rubber, H55F, 4.11 diffs, Safari snorkel and a stock 2'' ( I think 2'' is stock?) exhaust with muffler removed.
What exhaust you have Boogie74?
Idling @ ~100C before driving & 215c after driving.
Cruising at 80KMH @ 375C in 5th gear
Gunning it from 30KMH to 70KMH @ 470C
Up a relatively long steepening hill about 30secs at 80KMH @ 545C in 4th gear hold full throttle for the last 10 seconds.
Most of the time boost did not hit maxium. Car needs a tune, most boost and a 3'' dump and exhaust. It is scary how fast they rise and fall. Even when changing gears the temp drops ~20c before engading the next gear and back onto the loud pedal and i'm not granny shifting it either. The drop VERY fast once off the power which is good.
I would hate to think how hot they have got at other time in the cars life, probably past 650 post turbo when I crossed the snowy mountains in 35c+ heat for a few hours with the temp guage very high and hodling the pedal flat for extended periods.
How has the accepted maxium of 550c post turbo come about? I feel I could EASILY go way past this, especially when the car was on stock fueling.
- Thread starter
- #27
Hey mate.
My exhaust is straight through with a cherry bomb about a metre to a metre and a half from the dump pipe. Sits around about where the drivers seat is just outside the chassis rail. The exhaust is 2.75 inch or something I have measured it before but cant remember exactly right now. I have 12 -13psi boost and I'm not sure if the fuel has been messed with but the fuel economy figures seem to be pretty standard.
My temps are:
Idle.... 400 - 450F (200 - 250C)
Round town.... 600 - 700F (300 - 375C)
Highway.... 650 - 800F (350 - 430C)
Hard accel, overtaking and hard 4x4 goes up to 1000F before I back off.
On a recent trip I was passing a ford F100 up a hill and when I looked over at the pyro it was sitting on 1000F and I eased of a bit and it dropped a 100F pretty quickly.
1000 - 1050F is around 550C and after reading stuff about pyro temps this seems to be a safe temp and then after that there is debate about engine harm. The cruiser can do everything I want it to do before it gets to 1050 so it seems like a good temp to ease off at. I recently did Canunda and Little Dip in SA and on the big dunes I wasn't looking at the pyro gauge I was looking at the track so I cant say what temp the pyro got to but the cruiser was working real hard. Probably harder than I have worked the engine before.
Cheers.
My exhaust is straight through with a cherry bomb about a metre to a metre and a half from the dump pipe. Sits around about where the drivers seat is just outside the chassis rail. The exhaust is 2.75 inch or something I have measured it before but cant remember exactly right now. I have 12 -13psi boost and I'm not sure if the fuel has been messed with but the fuel economy figures seem to be pretty standard.
My temps are:
Idle.... 400 - 450F (200 - 250C)
Round town.... 600 - 700F (300 - 375C)
Highway.... 650 - 800F (350 - 430C)
Hard accel, overtaking and hard 4x4 goes up to 1000F before I back off.
On a recent trip I was passing a ford F100 up a hill and when I looked over at the pyro it was sitting on 1000F and I eased of a bit and it dropped a 100F pretty quickly.
1000 - 1050F is around 550C and after reading stuff about pyro temps this seems to be a safe temp and then after that there is debate about engine harm. The cruiser can do everything I want it to do before it gets to 1050 so it seems like a good temp to ease off at. I recently did Canunda and Little Dip in SA and on the big dunes I wasn't looking at the pyro gauge I was looking at the track so I cant say what temp the pyro got to but the cruiser was working real hard. Probably harder than I have worked the engine before.
Cheers.
Hustly, why did you switch your thermocoupling from post to pre turbo? I've just ordered a pyro for mine with the plan to keep an eye on things when I go looking for a bit more power from the old girl and looking at the pre Vs post mounting arguments.
Thx
Thx
I do the 200f rule as I have mine post. In case of catastrophic failure it goes out of the exhaust.
Just a note, these low boost engines get waaaay hotter than a Cummins ISX pulling up the snow shed.
ie Cummins ISX loaded to 125,000lbs maybe 800-850f max 36psi
ie Toyota 13B-T loaded to 5820lbs I can peg it @1400F plus if I was stupid
Just a note, these low boost engines get waaaay hotter than a Cummins ISX pulling up the snow shed.
ie Cummins ISX loaded to 125,000lbs maybe 800-850f max 36psi
ie Toyota 13B-T loaded to 5820lbs I can peg it @1400F plus if I was stupid
Hi guys, an old thread but I thought I'd chime in , recently putting my BJ 74 on the road. The 13BT was completely rebuilt and I am still somewhat in the break in period. I find my EGT's hot compared to my 1HDT in my other LC and my old 2H turboed engines. I am running 33's and stock gearing, which certainly does not help, but compared to some of the temps posted here, I am way hotter.
Pre Turbo Reading, deg f of an Autometer guage and probe
-Idle ( engine warmed up) 400 f so pretty normal
-tooting around residential areas, 50 - 70 Kph 800 f high ??
-Highway 95 - 100Kph. 1000 F High ??
-Highway 110 Kph flat 1100 to 1200 f depending on slight grade or head wind. High ??
- PUSHED PAST THIS, IT GOES into the danger zone. 1300 to 1400 deg, Definetely to high
As I hardly drive her now, I have stayed in the 1000 f range and only surpass that when entering a highway or passing some one, I dont feel comfortable with readings I AM GETTING.
I have not played with any setting but assume PO has, this as the wire is off the boost comp screw, also the boost compensator does not appear to do any thing. ( if it worked, I assume it would bring me more fuel on boost, so even higher temps...) I have tried with lines on and off to compensator No difference, no smoke either way, ( so I doubt I am over fueling) Is something out of wack here or is this pretty normal for a 13BT? Perhaps I am expecting to much out of a 13BT, I am used to the intercooled 1HDT daily driver, only times I see 1300 is at at 140 Kmh up a hill ( so like never )
Pre Turbo Reading, deg f of an Autometer guage and probe
-Idle ( engine warmed up) 400 f so pretty normal
-tooting around residential areas, 50 - 70 Kph 800 f high ??
-Highway 95 - 100Kph. 1000 F High ??
-Highway 110 Kph flat 1100 to 1200 f depending on slight grade or head wind. High ??
- PUSHED PAST THIS, IT GOES into the danger zone. 1300 to 1400 deg, Definetely to high
As I hardly drive her now, I have stayed in the 1000 f range and only surpass that when entering a highway or passing some one, I dont feel comfortable with readings I AM GETTING.
I have not played with any setting but assume PO has, this as the wire is off the boost comp screw, also the boost compensator does not appear to do any thing. ( if it worked, I assume it would bring me more fuel on boost, so even higher temps...) I have tried with lines on and off to compensator No difference, no smoke either way, ( so I doubt I am over fueling) Is something out of wack here or is this pretty normal for a 13BT? Perhaps I am expecting to much out of a 13BT, I am used to the intercooled 1HDT daily driver, only times I see 1300 is at at 140 Kmh up a hill ( so like never )
Thats 1100F, wow, then I am way to high. Your running 33's? I remember reading you build thread, almost picked your color scheme for my BJ ! Does any one know if injection timeing could have a huge impact on EGT's, . As per service manual we marked the injection pump to engine position when rebuilding engine, it is set exactly as per before teardown, perhaps it was moved/misadjusted by PO. I am realy hopeing not to have to do the injection timeing ( seems like a pain in the Azz job, one of the bolts requires bannana arms) . I have the waste gate controller disconected, so blow max boost to keep the temp down, I cant get much more than 15 Lbs peak, 20 at top end for a few seconds, ( no intercooler so wont do that more than a few seconds). Most of the time its below 10 Lbs
Also, do have some pics of how you plumbed in an intercooler, I see little space on my BJ with AC.
Also, do have some pics of how you plumbed in an intercooler, I see little space on my BJ with AC.
interesting setuo, I would ;ike something in the front of rad or flat under hood that didnt have a hole, but that may be dificult. Anyway, I drove ibn some small hills to day and was once again overcome by the EGT's, 1100 1200 at 70 Kmph 14 Lbs Boost, nothing realy strenous as far has hills, I guess I will have no choice but to look at injection timeing. Thanks for the pics. Also my gearing is stock 4.10 so should be as yours, I find the revs are low for a 4 cyl on 33's ( mine is automatic)
The higher egt's would actually be due to it being auto, not the timing