12V fridge plug - twist lock install

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

euclid

SILVER Star
Joined
May 15, 2002
Threads
327
Messages
6,063
Location
Jackson, MS
I've had my 12V fridge for about a year now. Every time I've used it, I was frustrated by the plug. It uses a normal 12V cig ligher plug, which will not stay plugged in. On my Moab trip last year I ended up riging a zip-tie set up just to keep it pluged in.

I believe I found a solution.

I used a twist lock plug from a marine store, designed to power a trolling motor. Since 1. I didn't want to sacrifice the option of using the normal cig lighter plug for use in other cars and 2. the power plugs for 12V fridges are hard to find and expensive I used a quick disconnect so that I can switch out the power supply options on the plug.


I made a small bracket just under the cup holder that has my new twist lock plug, and the original cig lighter plug (kept it to power my re-chargeable light).

First photo, back side of the plugs, wiring them in. I powered them both directly together with a 25 amp fuse inline.

Next photo, the bracket mounted up to the cupholder. I used a 2x2 aluminum angle I got at the hardware store. Easy to work with and cheap. You can't see it when the seat is installed.

Bottom pic, the inverter is powered directly off of the 2nd battery and has a big ass fuse in line. I pulled power directly off of the power posts on the inverter for these two accessory plugs. 10 guage wire, bigger than the extension cord that came with the fridge. You can also see the box for my CB.
IMG_0050.webp
IMG_0051.webp
IMG_0052.webp
 
Last edited:
Top pic shows the quick connect I used to allow me to switch power plug types. You cut the wire and splice it in to the power cord on one side, then the supply plug on the other.

Bottom pic shows the new twist lock plug all made up. Shrink wrap on the barrel connectors, then zip ties to keep stress off of the crimps. Quick connector, then the twist lock plug. The wires are screwed down in the twist lock, and it's designed to be waterproof since it's for a trolling motor. The cover isn't on in this pic.

I got the quick connectors at a local electronics supply store. The twist lock came from Bass Pro's marine section.
IMG_0053.webp
IMG_0054.webp
 
Good idea. I have been contemplating putting an inverter in as well. Not sure what for, just thought it would be kinda cool and who knows what it might come in handy for. Mainly a small electric heater during hunting season, is my thought. Does the fridge just sit on the rear floorboard area between the front and back seats when you're using it? And about your CB. I have the same one, and want to move my box from under the dash, to under the seat like yours. It doesn't look like you have it screwed down. Are you using velcro or something to hold it in place? And out of curiousity, where did you mount your handset? I mounted mine to the ashtray drawer. I don't smoke, but use the ashtray for storage of random small items. I just shimmed the mic. mount with a small piece or wood that I painted black, so the ashtray will still open and close all the way without the mic hanger hitting the dash.
 
Good idea. I have been contemplating putting an inverter in as well. Not sure what for, just thought it would be kinda cool and who knows what it might come in handy for. Mainly a small electric heater during hunting season, is my thought. Does the fridge just sit on the rear floorboard area between the front and back seats when you're using it? And about your CB. I have the same one, and want to move my box from under the dash, to under the seat like yours. It doesn't look like you have it screwed down. Are you using velcro or something to hold it in place? And out of curiousity, where did you mount your handset? I mounted mine to the ashtray drawer. I don't smoke, but use the ashtray for storage of random small items. I just shimmed the mic. mount with a small piece or wood that I painted black, so the ashtray will still open and close all the way without the mic hanger hitting the dash.

I'd be worried about running a heater off of an inverter. Producing heat takes a lot of power, and running that off of an inverter would kill your battery quickly. There are some 12V heaters that are designed to run on a lower amperage and would work better, IMO. I have the inverter for the very occasional powering of my laptop and a spotlight. I also carry my drill on big trips in case of a big field fix. I think I'll take my Dremel some times too.

I have some tie down points that I installed specifically for my fridge. It sits very close to the tailgate, and I run the cable up to the front. I decided not to run power wires back to the cargo area, mainly because I put a big load in the back of my truck every few months and I didn't want to crush the wires. Also, I remove the rear seat bottom for big trips, so running the wire up front is a strait shot.

My CB: I have never screwed down the small box. I zip tie it in place. Not sure why, just never have. I use the CB only very occasionally, so I don't have the mic mounted anywhere. When I need the CB, I pull it out from under the seat and put the mic on my lap. I like that CB because it takes up so little room and gives me the option of sticking it under the seat and forgetting about it.
 
I'd be worried about running a heater off of an inverter. Producing heat takes a lot of power, and running that off of an inverter would kill your battery quickly. There are some 12V heaters that are designed to run on a lower amperage and would work better, IMO. I have the inverter for the very occasional powering of my laptop and a spotlight. I also carry my drill on big trips in case of a big field fix. I think I'll take my Dremel some times too.

I have some tie down points that I installed specifically for my fridge. It sits very close to the tailgate, and I run the cable up to the front. I decided not to run power wires back to the cargo area, mainly because I put a big load in the back of my truck every few months and I didn't want to crush the wires. Also, I remove the rear seat bottom for big trips, so running the wire up front is a strait shot.

My CB: I have never screwed down the small box. I zip tie it in place. Not sure why, just never have. I use the CB only very occasionally, so I don't have the mic mounted anywhere. When I need the CB, I pull it out from under the seat and put the mic on my lap. I like that CB because it takes up so little room and gives me the option of sticking it under the seat and forgetting about it.

Yea. I actually got to thinking about the heater thing myself later on after my post, and realized that most electric heaters are 1500 watts. That would take one hell of an inverter, and a lot of juice. It would more just be for the occassional "whatever". I have one of those little 12v heater things that I bought before hunting season last year. It was right next to useless. Though it was more intended as a defroster, and was just a $20 Chinese POS. I know there are much better quality ones out there.

That's the exact reason I picked that CB as well. There isn't much of an area on a 62 dash to mount a CB, except maybe for custom building into the stereo spot if you are running a single DIN deck (which I am not), or maybe if you have a Tuffy (again, I don't). This one is nice because you can just stick it anywhere out of the way and out of sight, and all you have to worry about is the handset.
 
Nice install and a great way to eliminate Loose Plug Syndrome.

I had the same frustration with the cig plugs vibrating out. I looked at some nice marine twist lock cig plugs but I was too cheap to buy them. I also use the fridge in multiple vehicles.

My solution was to use some inexpensive and commonly available two conductor trailer wiring plugs. I just spliced them into the wires going to my auxiliary cig plugs in the back of my wagons. They are polarized and the hot lead is the female so it can't short when not in use. I just left them sticking out from under the interior trim panel. They are small, flat and hardly noticeable.

On the fridge cord, I just cut off the cig plug and put on the other half of the trailer connector. Since I also wanted to keep the option of using the fridge on a standard cig plug, I made a "dongle" using another cig plug and another half of a trailer connector. I didn't use the ARB cig plug becuase I have found these to be very unreliable. If you open one up you'll the see how easily the pos and neg contacts can short. Pretty flaky and easy to blow fuses or melt the connector. I've seen it happen several times.

The also added a small ATC bade fuse fridge cord since I had eliminated the fuse inside the ARB cig plug. I wanted to protect the smaller gauge wires on the trailer connector. The fridge (I have the smallest) draws less than 3 amps and the smaller wires (fuse) don't seem to be a problem. I should note I ran 10 gauge wire back to the auxiliary plugs using a fused distribution box (30 amp fuse). The small wires (and small fuse) just splice into the heavier wire in the back and only run a few inches.

It's not very glamorous but it has been working great.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom