A question for those mudders who have a factory installed 12H-T.
What is the I.D. of the fuel lines?
Thanks. Party on...
What is the I.D. of the fuel lines?
Thanks. Party on...
12H-T Fuel Line Size (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Mountain Goat
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OD of steel lines are 10mm, I guess 1mm less ID
If planning to use non standard fuel, such as veggie, then install 12mm ID rubber or airline to get the required flow.
Tim
Sent from my iPad using IH8MUD
If planning to use non standard fuel, such as veggie, then install 12mm ID rubber or airline to get the required flow.
Tim
Sent from my iPad using IH8MUD
I thought they were 10mm internal diameter.All fuel line is measured internally.
That's what they are on my 1HD-T. I would imagine the 12HT is the same.
Yes and later on they made them all 12mm.I think the early 1HZ was 8mm
roscoFJ73 said:
I've not measured it exactly. The steel wall is not that thick from memory. What I know is that a 10mm ID rubber fuel hose fits neatly over the HJ61 steel fuel line.
Gets a bit confusing when using nylon air line as a veggie fuel line as that is measured OD.
Tim
- Thread starter
- #7
Thanks for the replies. All good info.
- Thread starter
- #8
I picked up some air line. I measure 9.5mm (3/8") ID. How does one go about connecting the air line to the hose bead on the IP and fuel tank?
Thanks again!
Thanks again!
How come you bought airline instead of fuel line? Diesel might dissolve it in the long term.
Connection is by hose clamps,if thats what you mean
The fuel system is 10mm ,whether thats a nominal figure or whether it is exactly 10mm I do not know.
10mm fuel line is not available in North America.
3/8" works fine, just takes a little massaging.
- Thread starter
- #11
The important property of this air line is that it is NYLON air line. At about $1 per foot, it beats the hell out Viton and the like at $8 a foot and up. Parker makes a fuel hose that is supposed to be bio compatible, but even that is $2 a foot and hard to find.
The challenge with nylon air line is mating it to an 8mm OD steel hose bead.
The challenge with nylon air line is mating it to an 8mm OD steel hose bead.
You can get 3/8th fuel hose on ebay for as little as $4.80 per metre in 7m rolls,whats that $1.45 ft?.
.
- Thread starter
- #13
Thanks Roscoe. Is that bio-diesel/methanol compatible?
- Thread starter
- #14
I have more info to add to this thread - having now completed the fuel line replacement.
I made adapters for each end of the air brake tubing to connect to the 6mm ID/8mm OD hose beads at the fuel tank and lift pump. They consist of typical air brake "push-to-connect" fittings connected to 5/16" hose barbs and a short section of Parker Super-Flex hose (I already had a short section on-hand). I clamped the 5/16" hose over the Toyota hose beads. The push fittings almost cretainly have the wrong seal material and will need to be replaced. However that can wait a bit since I don't have a source of bio at the moment.
I made an interesting discovery during the swap. The factory original rubber fuel lines (this was an '87 gasoline cruiser) from the tank to the hard lines along the frame appear completely unharmed by 4 years of mixed dino-diesel and B99 use. I sectioned one to see what the impact would be. I saw absolutely no deterioration - due to age or chemical attack. They were still as flexible as new - no hardening or softening from the bio use.
Anyway, the old goat has a bit more pep now. As expected the top end is much stronger. Acceleration no longer levels off above 2000RPM. Thinking I would have to drop the tank, I put this off way too long. Now I have enough fuel to actually make use of the g-turbo.
One remaining detail is the 6mm tubes coming from the tank, lift pump, and IP. It would be nice to replace these with something larger, but I'm unsure of if/how to proceed. It looks like the fuel pickup and return are a bolt-on unit and easy to swap. However I am under the impression that the fuel tank assembly is generally identical between gas and diesel models. The IP and lift pump fuel lines are the same 6mm ID pipes. I find it odd that the long fuel runs would be 10mm and the connections at each end would be so much smaller. You dieselheads have any thoughts on this?
I made adapters for each end of the air brake tubing to connect to the 6mm ID/8mm OD hose beads at the fuel tank and lift pump. They consist of typical air brake "push-to-connect" fittings connected to 5/16" hose barbs and a short section of Parker Super-Flex hose (I already had a short section on-hand). I clamped the 5/16" hose over the Toyota hose beads. The push fittings almost cretainly have the wrong seal material and will need to be replaced. However that can wait a bit since I don't have a source of bio at the moment.
I made an interesting discovery during the swap. The factory original rubber fuel lines (this was an '87 gasoline cruiser) from the tank to the hard lines along the frame appear completely unharmed by 4 years of mixed dino-diesel and B99 use. I sectioned one to see what the impact would be. I saw absolutely no deterioration - due to age or chemical attack. They were still as flexible as new - no hardening or softening from the bio use.
Anyway, the old goat has a bit more pep now. As expected the top end is much stronger. Acceleration no longer levels off above 2000RPM. Thinking I would have to drop the tank, I put this off way too long. Now I have enough fuel to actually make use of the g-turbo.
One remaining detail is the 6mm tubes coming from the tank, lift pump, and IP. It would be nice to replace these with something larger, but I'm unsure of if/how to proceed. It looks like the fuel pickup and return are a bolt-on unit and easy to swap. However I am under the impression that the fuel tank assembly is generally identical between gas and diesel models. The IP and lift pump fuel lines are the same 6mm ID pipes. I find it odd that the long fuel runs would be 10mm and the connections at each end would be so much smaller. You dieselheads have any thoughts on this?
I would guess it would handle the bio fuel,many diesels are blended with bio at the pump these days. Methanol,you would have to ask the seller,but I believe it depends on the concentration.
- Thread starter
- #16
Bio has methanol in it. That's why it tends to attack rubbers and synthetics. Ordinary fuel hose, even injection hose won't last.
I prefer to use B99 when I can.
