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- Thread starter blatant
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How bad is the leak? I would drive it, monitor the leak and temperature before calling a towing company. Does the 200 have digital coolant temperature reading? If not, do you have ScanGauge or similar gauge for coolant temperature? I suspect you could drive it home if the leak is not too bad and not overheating. Get some coolant if you decide to drive home.
Yes, you can use water or Japanese compatible. Just do a full coolant flush with new radiator installation. Looking at your picture above, if the leak is from the top surface, then may be the leak will slow down or stop when the coolant level is low enough. Make sure the lower coolant level is not overheating the engine. I think cleaning it up might have made it worse. May be JB Weld it and limp it home? I would drive it at a lower speed if possible. Assuming the rest of the cooling system is in good condition, driving at 80 MPH will put higher pressure to the system (water pump turns faster). Is there any AutoZone near by? May be get JB Weld and ScanGauge II from there, and you can return ScanGauge if you don't like it.
patched my old rad with 2 part epoxy while I was waiting on the replacement. It held up great until my replacement came in.
really only a 2hr job for one person working in a driveway. shouldn't break the bank at the dealership.
check the radiator thread and ask if dealership is providing the newest revision of the radiator.
did your first post say 2011 with only 88K?
I think mine quit at 160. was just doing the math to see how long until i have to put in rad #3 as i creep up on 250K.
check the radiator thread and ask if dealership is providing the newest revision of the radiator.
did your first post say 2011 with only 88K?
I think mine quit at 160. was just doing the math to see how long until i have to put in rad #3 as i creep up on 250K.