12 hours later OME is Complete

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Joined
Sep 28, 2004
Threads
139
Messages
1,435
Location
San Clemente, CA
Well 12 hours later and the job is done. Some how my Dad; former Marine LTCOL misplaced two of my lug nuts, drenched my cell in Powerade and threw away the hardware to my rear shocks. I tightened all that the lugnuts I had and drove the Cruiser the 7 miles home where it will sit untill I pick up a couple from Toyota. The Heavy Duty OME kit looks and drives great. The time, sweat, and $48 it cost to rent the stall on my Marine base was well worth it; however next time I may pay someone to do it for me.

How do I post pics on the forum?

I do have a before and after picks, would love to shre them.
Chris and Andrea Manella

I tried to enter a pic but a window popped up which said
Script prompt
"Enter the text to be formated"
It asked for a web address
 
Hey Firstoy, Is your name James by chance?
Pismo 2004
 
boerboel313's rig

Before: pristine stock
PC170638.JPG


during:
PC170640.JPG


after: kick a$$!!
PC180642.JPG
 
That looks awesome, My dads 62 should look like that soon!
 
Now you need bigger tires. I don't think you can run 33X12.50s with that lift (around 2 to 2.5 inch); I have about 2 in lift and can run this size on the street but with flex/turn in the front they rub (I tried this size off another truck I had). You should be able, like me, to run 32X11.50; I do and no rubby at full flex/full turn. I run Wrangler MTRs; not a daily driver. If it were a daily, I would opt for BFG ATs; a good compromise. This tire size looks and works well on a mildly to moderately built 60. You can also go with 33X9.50 skinnys. Here's a pic of what your truck might look like with 32X11.50s . (my truck pre bumpers and sliders; after 2 in lift.)
 
Thanks for all the comments and thanks to my friend James "Firstoy for host ing my Pics. By the way I did buy a star. A real shop does make a difference. The one I used was at our hobby shop on Base, here on Camp Pendleton. My sister has the same lift on her 87 fj60 with 33x12.5x16 Duelers without any problems. I however am going to move to eigther 32x12.5x15 or 33x9.5x15.
Thanks again for all the input. My wife, her family, and I will be making our way to pismo for the New Years; leaving around 0300 or so on friday morning should get us there around 0830 or so. Maybe we'll see some of you out there if your close.
Chris and Andrea Manella
 
Oh, I forgot to say you all who showcased your rigs, They look great and I can't wait to get back out on the trail.
 
Well the lift is on and running strong, however my steering wheel is rotated 45 deg to the right. The Cruiser's align and balance are good, How do I remove the steering wheel and straiten it?
 
IIRC there are a couple of phillips screws on the backside of the steering wheel and then the front cover comes off and then a 19mm(?) nut on the steering shaft.
Your lift looks real good, I am planning to do mine this next summer.
Is that the new Dakkar lift or OME Aussie made?


Either way it looks kickass!

:beer:

EDIT: Those MWR shops are cool, I wish there was a public place that rented out bays for doing work. When I was in the navy, I used to use their shops all the time, especially when I was stationed at Great Lakes Ill.
 
boerboel313 said:
Well the lift is on and running strong, however my steering wheel is rotated 45 deg to the right. The Cruiser's align and balance are good, How do I remove the steering wheel and straiten it?

Looks great Chris and I'm sure you're enjoying the ride on the new springs.

To correct the steering wheel you can adjust the relay rod. Your new lift has increased the distance from the pitman arm (steering box) to the steering arm (right wheel). Lengthening this rod will bring your steering wheel back into position.

P.S. I plan to be out of town New Years, sorry I'll miss you. Have fun!
 
pismojim said:
To correct the steering wheel you can adjust the relay rod. Your new lift has increased the distance from the pitman arm (steering box) to the steering arm (right wheel). Lengthening this rod will bring your steering wheel back into position.

Or you can do it the right way like pismojim says. :doh:
 
or you can just pop the center cap off the wheel, loosen the big nut, pull and wiggle on the wheel, when loose take nut off, put wheel back on stright.

or do it like Jim says ;)

Civil1 said:
Or you can do it the right way like pismojim says. :doh:
 
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