100 series IFS Diff Breakages

[Red Rover]

Hi Guys, I'm a newbie from Oz so don't fry me---yet! I have a 80 Series with all the goodies. Gots heaps of good info off this forum. However I want to update to a 4.7 - I think you call it a LX470. The 100 gets a bad wrap over here with the IFS. Nearly everyone reckon that to go off road it must have solid beam. Most people say the IFS collapse's and they break a heap of diffs, but I don't seem to see that you guys have the same problem or am I missing something? I would really like the 4.7 lifted with front and rear locker an 35's but would it handle it.

Thanks in advance

 

[tabraha]

Welcome to the board! Most of the front diff breakage we've seen involves the 2 pinion diffs on the early models. 2000 and up have a stronger 4 pinion diff. We've heard of a couple of those breaking but not nearly to the same extent. The basic advice I would give is to change over to the ARB locker up front. There is not a single case of these failing on a 100 series on this board I do believe. My plans were to change out to an ARB once my front diff breaks but 136,000 miles strong and no signs of the factory 2-pinion giving up yet. I'm going to go to the ARB anyhow just due to the type of wheeling I do but so far I've had no problems w/ my 2 pinion.

 

[spressomon]

Welcome to the board! Most of the front diff breakage we've seen involves the 2 pinion diffs on the early models. 2001 and up have a stronger 4 pinion diff. We've heard of a couple of those breaking but not nearly to the same extent. The basic advice I would give is to change over to the ARB locker up front. There is not a single case of these failing on a 100 series on this board I do believe. My plans were to change out to an ARB once my front diff breaks but 136,000 miles strong and no signs of the factory 2-pinion giving up yet. I'm going to go to the ARB anyhow just due to the type of wheeling I do but so far I've had no problems w/ my 2 pinion.

Dont' wait until you break it...unless you carry a tow truck in your back pocket

 

[tabraha]

Yeah, I changed my waiting strategy after Christo posted that it may cost more money if it breaks and screws more stuff up. Not to mention the tow truck inconvenience.

 

[Imola Red]

I think it's 2000 and up that have the 4 pinion diff's and also then have TRAC.

 

[tabraha]

You're correct. I revised my post.

 

[dclee]

One point to consider is that, in general, I don't think us Yanks wheel our junk as hard as you guys. We're not driving at 100 kph across 2000 miles of Simpson Desert washboards on a regular basis. We may do technical stuff like Moab, but that is usually slow speed crawling, and for only a few days at a time.

Now, on the other hand, that would seem to explain why we break CV joints, while you guys are breaking control arms and diffs (actually, we break diffs too). This would be an interesting study if someone could get some grant money from Toyota...

My US$0.02,

 

[TEPUI]

Red Rover,

Isn`t the 105 available in OZ? I thought so.

IMO, A 105 gives you the best of both worlds.

 

[Jim_Chow]

Red Rover,

Isn`t the 105 available in OZ? I thought so.

IMO, A 105 gives you the best of both worlds.

I don't think the 105 comes w/ the V8. At least the choices were either the 1FZ or the anemic 1HZ (old design).

There's a 100 TD in the Japanese LC mag (either Oct/Nov '05) that has a SAS using a FZJ78 front axle plus either 4" or 6" lift coils (I can't remember which, but I posted pics around last Oct/Nov time-frame), about 35" tires. So I guess the LC78 front axle is wide enough for the UZJ frame. They also installed front/rear factory electric lockers, geared the t-case down. I'm not sure if the oil pan on the 1HD-FTE is the same as on the 2UZ, but w/ a big lift, one probably doesn't have to worry about that.

Otherwise, I don't think it's wise just cranking the t-bars w/o installing a diff drop kit to realign the CV angles.