'07+ Tundra Experience (1 Viewer)

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aim

Joined
Dec 22, 2004
Threads
20
Messages
485
Location
Western MA
Let me preface this by saying that I like 'mud (the forum, not the substance) and I hope that it will become a source of 2G Tundra knowledge. Currently, I frequent http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/tundra, but while some of the info is there, the atmosphere isn't 'mud-like.

I am a new owner of a 2008 DC SB 4x4 5.7 Tundra (no, no pictures, sorry, my computer is fried following an incident involving cold weather, virgin sheep and an electric heater) and wanted to a) share my impressions b) start a repository of Tundra knowledge.

A short overview of my impression is: "A Tundra is not a Land Cruiser". As for the rest...

I now have 1001 miles on my Tundra (in just about a month of ownership), miles accumulated in mixed driving over mostly snowy secondary roads. I have yet to exceed 65mph, 15 mpg or 1,000 of towing load.

1. The good:

Nice engine! I was worried about the very touchy throttle response and very hard shifting the two 5.7 trucks I test-drove exhibited, but it turns out that the computer adjusts to your driving style. Once the coolant warms up, the truck reacts beautifully. Smooth, quite, awesome throttle response, plenty of power. The transmission and transmission computer are nice as well. Nice shifts, downshifts on descents.

Nice dash layout and reasonable interior storage (compared to my RC '94 GMC C1500 and '92- & '94 80s), Nice seats. Ok seating position (I'm 5'10"). Nice manual that does a good job explaining all the toys.

For regular on-road driving in less than extreme conditions, the nanny computers do a great job maintaining traction in 2WD. Very even and predictable handling. Driving on an icy dirt road with 10" of fresh powder is a non-event. Nice power steering effort. Very fun truck to drive.

In 4LO, the truck is surprisingly capable. Very nice turning radius, with the tow mirrors the truck is very easy to maneuver in tight quarters. This will make a nice construction-site vehicle.

2. The bad:

The nanny computers (in the default mode) will shut the engine right off in many slippery situations (going uphill on a slippery road in 2WD and encountering a sudden berm, say. TRAC will cut the throttle, and once all forward progress stops, I hit the brakes. ABS kicks in, of course. Once the dust settles, the engine is no longer running. Repeatable, annoying and potentially dangerous). The "Auto-LSD" mode in 4HI is not nearly aggressive enough for deep(er) hard-packed snow. 4LO is not available until the coolant warms up. Nanny computers cannot be turned completely off no matter what the manual says. Under "extreme" conditions, traction control and vehicle stability will still kick in. ABS is always on, of course. That makes for very unpredictable handling – as long as you stay on the gas, the truck usually oversteers in 4HI, off the gas (or if brakes are used at al)l, it usually understeers, but the behavior changes depending on what the traction control computer is thinking.

In general, in default mode, off-road handling (1'-2' of hard-packed slushy snow) is comparable to a loaded granny-driven shopping cart. As traction is lost slightly, the vehicle slows down due to traction control applying the brakes. In conditions in which my unlocked '92 80 keeps moving, the truck starts hopping, slowing, and stops. The 32" Michelin LTX A/S tires don't' help, of course. Since you must be fully stopped to engage 4LO and you really engage 4HI when either under heavy load or when ABS in engaged, driving under quickly changing conditions does require a surprising amount of forethought. I really miss the full-time transfer case of the '92. The part time conversion is for the birds!

No cup holder able to accommodate a 1L Nalgene water bottle. No cup holder able to accommodate wide mugs (I have a bench seat and no console).

Some gages difficult to see in full daylight (the gear selector position and odometer being the worst offenders).

A lot of 'customizable parameters' (courtesy light settings, door lock behavior, headlight delays, etc.) have defaults that I disagree with. Without the Multifunction Information Display (not available on all models), the only choice available to change them is the dealer. $$, time and drool on your seats. Bah humbug!

Low roof, overhead traffic lights are hard to see. The :princess: has trouble adjusting the steering wheel to a position that does not block the gages,

3. The ugly:

With 876 miles on the clock, I spent several hours on the side of the road waiting for a tow truck. This is only the second time in my life I *had* to have a vehicle towed due to mechanical issues. The circumstances: Uphill driveway with 2' of powder off a 2-lane road. A 2' snow berm with 5+' of shoulder covered in slippery slush ahead of the berm. I slow down, turn across the rode and nose into the berm (in 2WD default). The truck stops. I engage 4HI and step on the gas. The truck inches forward. Once three wheels are in the berm and the 4th is in the slush, the truck stops. I step on the brakes and shift to neutral (in preparation for 4LO). I notice that the engine is not running, restart it, keep my foot on the brake, select 4LO, and inch forward another 6" so that I am out of the road. I turn the truck off, climb out and go about my business, When I come back and turn the truck on, I notice the following:

Check engine light is on, VSC Off light is blinking quickly, 4LO light is blinking slowly, "skidding car" light is ON. At that point, the truck is in LO, the transfer case is in 4WD, none of the nannies are operating and the engine idles high (900RPM). I crawl under the truck and make sure that no harness or vacuum line is loose (and notice the rubber band around the front differential disconnect actuator. WTHmm?) After driving the truck on the shoulder far enough to get cell phone reception, I call the dealer (thank you, 1-800-FREE-411), am advised to not drive the truck on pavement (the road is getting plowed at this point) and to wait for a tow truck. I sit and wait for a good long time and then am driven around the surrounding towns with the truck on the flatbed. back at the dealer, Techstream is hooked up. 5 codes – 1 engine, 1 VSC, 3 ABS (coincidentally, the 3 wheels that were in the snow bank). The tech resets everything and I'm back on the road in no time. Second time in my life I am stranded by ^!@%! computer problems. According to the tech, disconnecting the battery will not reset anything other the engine ECM, so disconnecting the battery would not have helped. Of course, my toolkit (with the 10mm wrench) is in the '92 cruiser, not the '08 Tundra.
 
Questions

My questions:

1. What can I use to customize parameters without going to the dealer? Any cheap J2534 that can WRITE?

2. What can I use to RESET the CAN stuff? Where is Ctrl-Alt-Del when you need it?

3. How can I retrofit the MID (Multifunction Information Display) to a bench-seat truck? I would love to have range remaining without going the Scangauge II route.

4. Can you retrofit the 110VAC outlet? With a front bench? I'm a fan of the factory look..

5. I changed the parameters so that unlocking the doors no longer turns the interior lights on. The bed line turns on, though (with the switch in the door position, of course). Anyone know what *&W! menu that is in?

6. How does one disable the passenger seat belt waring chime on an '08? The '07 settings have it in the combination meter section, but on my '08 the setting simply isn't there.
 
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Purchasing

Things that stumped me when I was shopping for one. Be aware that I live in the North East, things could be different in different areas.

In 2008 and for double cabs, benches are available on Tundra Grade only (not SR5, not Limited). You loose the MPG/range display on the clock that looked so cool on the bucket tester the dealer had.

Tundra Grade can be ordered with 18" alloy wheels, 6 CD Changer, heated power mirrors, fog lights, anti-theft alarm, daytime running lights, tow mirrors (conflicts with power heated mirrors), tow package, under seat storage, and sliding rear window despite what the dealer tells you. In NE, all trucks come with the cold kit. Please note that the heated windshield wipers don't.

All V8 trucks come with a factory alarm. If you don't pay for it, it is disabled and can be turned on with about 6 clicks by the dealer. When you add the alarm as an option, what you actually get is the $100 or so Glass Breakage Sensor.

It is rumored that the bedliner you get from the factory is less flimsy than the bedliner you get from your Toyota parts department. Both are made by Pendaliner, though. Can anyone verify this? Mine came without the bedliner, even though I ordered it with one. Go figure...

Tundra - Tundra Solutions Forum is a great resource with several dealers who appear to be knowledgeable participating.
 
you can buy a cheap OBDII/CAN reader-scanner to clear codes. They go for $20-$50.

to clarify; your truck was not actually disabled. The dealer just told you not to drive it. Is that correct?
 
Stuck in 4LO (transfer case in 4WD, low gearing) and limp mode for the engine. Not disabled DISABLED, but not really normal for a < 1K <1 month vehicle. Not a knock on Toyota, by the way, or even the dealer. Any system complex enough will have unpredictable states, and the computer control system definitely is complex and interconnected enough, and all I really want the the Ctrl-Alt-Del option to reset *everything*. I don't mind if it saves a Gig of data for forensic purposes, but let me reset it!

I thought that the OBD2 scanner will not touch the CAN stuff and will thus be no help when the VSC and ABS conspire to make my life difficult. Or am I wrong?
 
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they have new OBDII/CAN scanners, btw they also work on VAG. Not bad for $30 :)
 
they have new OBDII/CAN scanners, btw they also work on VAG. Not bad for $30 :)

You know, it does look like the new OBD2/CAN can RESET the ABS &Co. Cool! But $30? You wouldn't happen to have a link? That's almost as cheap as a nice 10mm wrench for the negative battery cable...
 

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