07 GX470 Clicks but wont turnover (1 Viewer)

[Whutchinson]

So it was running great until I forgot a screw driver in the engine bay when starting. Screw driver fell into the fan and got thrown around before stopping the engine. On top a a broken fan blade and a hole in the radiator the mistake also made it so I just get clicking when trying to crank.

Screw driver stayed up by the fan but did get over by the battery, no noticible damage to any wires though. Thoughts on what the issue could or things up by the radiator to check that could cause it?

None of the wires from the battery look damaged or impacted but checking power to the starter is my next step otherwise.

 

[Mike NXP]

So right after the screw driver dropped down, then the problem started?

You turn the key, dahs lights up and everything is OK, and then when you turn the key you hear it clicking but not turning over right?

Theres some other wires down there that could have been hit but I don't think anything would cause the engine to not turn over.
** Actually isn't there a crank sensor wire or something in that area? s*** I'm not too knowledgeable on that but get a flashlight and look around near oil filter area for wires. Maybe drop skid plate and look from below.

 

[Jackland]

So it was running great until I forgot a screw driver in the engine bay when starting. Screw driver fell into the fan and got thrown around before stopping the engine. On top a a broken fan blade and a hole in the radiator the mistake also made it so I just get clicking when trying to crank.

Screw driver stayed up by the fan but did get over by the battery, no noticible damage to any wires though. Thoughts on what the issue could or things up by the radiator to check that could cause it?

None of the wires from the battery look damaged or impacted but checking power to the starter is my next step otherwise.

Did you happen to sort this out? I'm having a no start with single click. Thing died while idling, restarted, died again. Battery is good. Sounds like you were having a different problem though?

 

[Mike NXP]

Did you happen to sort this out? I'm having a no start with single click. Thing died while idling, restarted, died again. Battery is good. Sounds like you were having a different problem though?

Wish I could help, sound like you checked the obvious battery voltage..... I'm not as familiar with the GX470 yet as it's new to me......Perhaps the key feature that allows the operator to just turn the key and let go is a factor here to?

Where do you hear the click? Under the hood, is the starter trying to engage or do you just hear a relay click somewhere?

 

[Jackland]

Wish I could help, sound like you checked the obvious battery voltage..... I'm not as familiar with the GX470 yet as it's new to me......Perhaps the key feature that allows the operator to just turn the key and let go is a factor here to?

Where do you hear the click? Under the hood, is the starter trying to engage or do you just hear a relay click somewhere?

Yes, it's under the hood. Engine lost power when it was running.

Starter - thinking not, as it lost power when it was running, started, then cut-off again
Battery - Good, checked at autozone. Assuming they checked draw and voltage, my son took it in
Grounds - The ones on top all look good, I need to get under there and look at the others
Relays/Fuses - With the click it sounds like the starter is engaging, but no crank; I know I can check relays, that'll be next I think after I do a couple other things. What I think are all the related fuses look good,
Alternator - With the battery being good, it doesn't make sense to me that it would be related to the alternator, it isn't like the car was running off the battery.

So, here's what I'm doing after work:
1. Going to check the grounds underneath, after doing #2 as I pray
2. Going to try and turn the crank bolt - the tb hasn't been done and the thing has nearly 180K on it. I know, I know....smooth move. My 2000 LC made it to 182K without being changed and the guy that did it saved it to show me cause he couldn't believe how good of shape it was in, and it definitely wasn't changed before. So yea, the money been a little tight and I kept putting it off. So apparently maybe the engine is seized, the starter is engaging and trying but it just can't do s***? I don't know.

 

[Rednexus]

If the TB broke the engine would spin super-fast upon cranking, as some the valves would be stuck open, leaving no compression in some of the cylinders. The UZ is non-interference w/o the VVTi engaged, so it's honestly unlikely that a broken TB would have trashed the motor if it broke idling.

The starter on a UZ is known for going out. At 184K either you have a very old OEM starter or maybe already a reman. If it is clicking but not spinning, you almost certainly have a bad starter. A Denso reman is around $100 from Rock Auto. They can be changed in maybe 4-5 hours, with the non-VVTI engine being better. Just be careful to not get gunk in the intake ports, and clean out what you do get in there.

After you get the starter working, you can start with old-school mechanics diagnosis. Spark and fuel. The GX has no way to easily check fuel pressure. I removed one of the banjo bolts on the fuel rail and replaced it with a 1/8" NPT threaded banjo bolt that allowed me to install a schrader valve. You'll also want to check spark - but it's unlikely you'd lose spark in all 8 cylinders.

My bet is that you have a starter issue combined with either a fuel pressure issue or a throttle body issue. The combined failures may be coincidental. A scan tool that can check each sensor (when you get it running again) may also be helpful, along with a fuel pressure gauge.

 

[Mike NXP]

^^ Wise words as always

What can the OP check before facing the harsh reality of possibly having to pull intake and replace the starter? Do you think the clicking is the starter trying to engage or a relay?

 

[Jackland]

If the TB broke the engine would spin super-fast upon cranking, as some the valves would be stuck open, leaving no compression in some of the cylinders. The UZ is non-interference w/o the VVTi engaged, so it's honestly unlikely that a broken TB would have trashed the motor if it broke idling.

The starter on a UZ is known for going out. At 184K either you have a very old OEM starter or maybe already a reman. If it is clicking but not spinning, you almost certainly have a bad starter. A Denso reman is around $100 from Rock Auto. They can be changed in maybe 4-5 hours, with the non-VVTI engine being better. Just be careful to not get gunk in the intake ports, and clean out what you do get in there.

After you get the starter working, you can start with old-school mechanics diagnosis. Spark and fuel. The GX has no way to easily check fuel pressure. I removed one of the banjo bolts on the fuel rail and replaced it with a 1/8" NPT threaded banjo bolt that allowed me to install a schrader valve. You'll also want to check spark - but it's unlikely you'd lose spark in all 8 cylinders.

My bet is that you have a starter issue combined with either a fuel pressure issue or a throttle body issue. The combined failures may be coincidental. A scan tool that can check each sensor (when you get it running again) may also be helpful, along with a fuel pressure gauge.

This is not on my 2000 LC, this is my son's 2008 GX, it has VVTi - does that change anything in regard to the symptoms being inconsistent with a broken belt?

 

[Jackland]

If the TB broke the engine would spin super-fast upon cranking, as some the valves would be stuck open, leaving no compression in some of the cylinders. The UZ is non-interference w/o the VVTi engaged, so it's honestly unlikely that a broken TB would have trashed the motor if it broke idling.

The starter on a UZ is known for going out. At 184K either you have a very old OEM starter or maybe already a reman. If it is clicking but not spinning, you almost certainly have a bad starter. A Denso reman is around $100 from Rock Auto. They can be changed in maybe 4-5 hours, with the non-VVTI engine being better. Just be careful to not get gunk in the intake ports, and clean out what you do get in there.

After you get the starter working, you can start with old-school mechanics diagnosis. Spark and fuel. The GX has no way to easily check fuel pressure. I removed one of the banjo bolts on the fuel rail and replaced it with a 1/8" NPT threaded banjo bolt that allowed me to install a schrader valve. You'll also want to check spark - but it's unlikely you'd lose spark in all 8 cylinders.

My bet is that you have a starter issue combined with either a fuel pressure issue or a throttle body issue. The combined failures may be coincidental. A scan tool that can check each sensor (when you get it running again) may also be helpful, along with a fuel pressure gauge.

He clarified that he was in reverse when the engine shut off. Put it in park, it restarted, went about 15 ft. as he was pushing the accelerator much more than he should have had to in order to get any RPMs.

 

[Rednexus]

This is not on my 2000 LC, this is my son's 2008 GX, it has VVTi - does that change anything in regard to the symptoms being inconsistent with a broken belt?

No - with a broken belt, the motor should spin freely, even if the valves hit the pistons. I had a belt break on a Subaru EJ25 and bent all 16 valves - that is how it behaved. If your GX did happen to break at idle, it seems unlikely it would cause these problems. I bet your belt is fine, but it certainly could cause the no-run system if it did happen to break. You can also pull off one of the belt covers at the end of the cylinder head to verify the belt is tight and not loose.

It could certainly be a problem with the throttle body, MAF, etc, or the fuel pressure. Lots of things to check for sure. But I think you'll need to address the starter issue first. And, if you are going in that far, you might as well throw a new T-belt kit on it.

 

[Jackland]

Could certainly be a problem with the throttle body, MAF, etc, or the fuel pressure. Lots of things to check for sure.

Ok. But it being VVTi doesn't change the fact that if the TB broke it wouldn't "seize"? If it was a fuel problem then wouldn't the thing still crank? In that scenario you are saying that I would have to have had the starter and something in the fuel system take a dump at exactly the same time, correct?

 

[Rednexus]

Ok. But it being VVTi doesn't change the fact that if the TB broke it wouldn't "seize"? If it was a fuel problem then wouldn't the thing still crank? In that scenario you are saying that I would have to have had the starter and something in the fuel system take a dump at exactly the same time, correct?

Yes, seems like a likely scenario, unless you have some sort of greater electrical problem. Again, non-VVTI is non-interference unless the VVTI is activated. The VVTI is not activated with the engine idling in the driveway. When I broke a belt on my FB25 it just bent the valves and the engine spun freely no problem. The pistons will bend the tiny little valves.