Since installing a 2.5" lift I have a tear in one boot and the other is spitting. I ordered a diff drop space kit today hoping it helps. Any suggestions on inner boots? Seems like after reading multiple Toyota forums its a problem.
04 Tundra inner CV boots puking grease
- Thread starter KC Yota
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When I lifted my old Tundra the boot didn't tear but the factory clamp on the boot failed. The easy way to fix it is a large screw type hose clamp from the hardware store. You might check to see if that is what happened or if you actually have a torn boot.
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- #3
I believe that the clamps failed on the drive side. I didn't see any rips. However the passenger side has about an inch horizontal tear. The diff drop kit comes next week. So I'm going replace the boots when I install it. Anyone know of a good boot? High angle or something that will last? I really don't want to be replacing these on a consistent basis.
I have had allot of tacomas and always had problems with a lift that is 2.5 or better. A good indication to know if the boots will last is if any of the ribs are touching each other. If they are they will fail really fast. Swapping the whole axle is easy, so I keep a spare and when a boot goes I swap out the axle and rebuild the other one on the bench. I also have a 2.5 lift with a diff drop. Just FYI I had fox fabtech 0-3.5 coilovers in my 98 and had best results with the lift at 2.25 (approx). I purchased the toytech ones and they are set at the lowest settings and it’s like 3". They say 2.5-3.5 on the website but not so in my case. Whenever a truck is lifted there will always be a compromise. Good luck
Boots from parts houses are almost free. The install is a PITA. I've done it twice and got the hang of it, but it's still messy and time consuming. I finally had a snap ring part, more like a wire than an actual snap ring, and Toyota 'doesn't make or sell these anymore'. So I got an axle from AutoZone for less than $100. Duralast I think. It's waaaaay easier to swap axles than to do the boots for $20. It has a lifetime warranty and a different shaped boot. It's a shiny rubber with wavy ribs, not the angular ones like OEM. I don't extreme off road so it has still held together.
If you do decide to do the boots, inspect all the friction points in the axles and clean the old grease out. Reason is, you've been riding with grease leaking for more than a mile or two. If grease can leave, dirt can enter.
PS This grease doesn't wash off easily. Have a bunch of rags and GoJo handy.
If you do decide to do the boots, inspect all the friction points in the axles and clean the old grease out. Reason is, you've been riding with grease leaking for more than a mile or two. If grease can leave, dirt can enter.
PS This grease doesn't wash off easily. Have a bunch of rags and GoJo handy.
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- #6
Right on! Thanks for the advice. I'm going to stick with the 2.5 and see how it works out with the drop and the new axle.
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Thanks. I found the axle @ Auto Zone on sale for $59.00. I've never installed them before. I plan on putting it in once I get the differential drop kit. Anything I should know about the install for axle?
the axle is easy to swap. all you have to do is take off the 2 bolts holding on your caliper and wire tire it up to your upper control arm out of the way. Take out the bottom bolt that holds the coilover to the lower control arm.(pry it out to give you room to get the axle out). Then pop off the dust cap where your axle comes through the hub and remove the large axle nut with an impact gun. you need a large socket. then remove the 14 mm (may be bigger on tundra)bolts on the btm of the lwr control arm. at this point it should seperate from the arm with a pry bar. while lifting up on the steering knuckle hit the axle with a deadblow really hard once it pops out swing assembly to the side and just pop the axle out from the diff. make sure you save your dust covers on both ends of the factory axle and tranfer them to the new one. hope this helps and good luck
Like that ^. But I pop the dustcaps, then have someone stomp the brake pedal while I break the axle nuts. I don't have an impact, though. You can beat the axle out of the hub with a block of wood and a shop hammer also. I pry bar may also be needed to pop the axle loose from the front diff. Also, have an oil catch pan ready because a few ounces of fluid may run out of the diff. If the seal is rurnt, it all may drain down.
Simple. It takes almost as long to get mine up on jackstands than to do one side now. I've ended up doing this process at least 10 times, counting each side, over the last 3 years. Bad boots, an axle change, and a bad bearing replacement from a bad shop.
Simple. It takes almost as long to get mine up on jackstands than to do one side now. I've ended up doing this process at least 10 times, counting each side, over the last 3 years. Bad boots, an axle change, and a bad bearing replacement from a bad shop.
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- #10
Cool. Thanks Guys. Appreciate all the help! Should be gettin that drop kit tomorrow so I can install all of it at once.
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- #11
Hey Skully and Brake Weight. Installed the new Axle today. Knocked it out in about an hour. Thanks for all the info. No problems what so ever!