interior fan

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brokenparts

brokenparts

10 Year 15 Year
Joined
Apr 4, 2006
Threads
162
Messages
4,044
Location
Hillsboro, OR
Website
www.cascadecruisers.com
Just suddently gave up a few days ago (along with the arb pressure release solenoid)... Kinda weird. I can hear the relay click on when I flip the switch and the fan itself still works (ran power directly to the fan and it still works) but for some reason it just shut off. All my fuses seem to be fine. Any other ideas?
 
Check if the rear blower works to rule out a possible problem with the relay as both blowers actuate from the same unit. If it does, then it's a hunt. Use a multimeter or circuit tester and check the switch (in all positions) and the blower resistor for voltage.
 
Did you check your circuit breaker? It's not a fuse per se, and it can be reset if tripped. On my 1985 FJ-60, my circuit breaker is located on the right hand side of the fuse block. It's roundish, about the size as a stack of nickels, and has a silver metal cover with a hole in the middle. Find something to stick in the hole and push to reset the breaker. If it won't reset, then it may need to be replaced. Check continuity before replacing.

I had mine trip on a trip through the desert between NV and AZ. Luckily it was just the breaker, and as soon as I figured that out, I was back on my way in comfort.
 
There's a 'blower resistor' on the A/C ductwork above accel pedel: if resistor kaput, it will keep 'front' fan from running. The resistor controls the front blower speed.\; failure will not affect rear (under passanger seat) blower.
 
Did it work on all speeds before it gave out? I think the blower resistors usually give out on the lower speeds first instead of going out completely.
 
From the FSM, "If a circuit breaker continues to cut out, a short circuit is indicated. The system must be checked by a qualified technician". Sorry...I would expect that it wouldn't take five minutes for the short to make, especially with the vehicle stationary. Good luck.
 
in my experience, when my fan has stopped working in the past, it has never been the fan, but the wire that goes to it. the wire connects to the block. it is HOT there, and the connection just disenegrates over time, and you have to reconnect it.

finally, my mechanic, Mike Dajda, just wired it somewhere else. now it comes on EVERY time I turn off the engine and stays on for 10 minutes. It is no longer connected to a heat sensor on the block. If the engine is cold, and I turn on the engine for 10 seconds, the fan will come on for 10 minutes. so I recommend taking the heat sensor out of the loop because it is just so fragile. wish I could tell you how he did this, but it took him 2 minutes.
 
my fan stopped working on a long highway trip. i can not find the circuit breaker under the dash. maybe its because i have a fj62. ive fixed my power windows the same way as some people have fixed their fan but since i can not find the breaker im not sure what to do.

as i was under the dash i flipped the fan on and then off and i could hear a click sound. i found a small box along with other boxes that was making the click sound. could this thing be dead or is the problem somewhere else? sorry for lack of terms.. im not very good with electrical stuff.

thanks
-Thomas
 
Also try whacking the bottom of the fan with your hand, cured mine. Actually, I plan on opening it up and cleaning it out and checking the contacts etc but have not made the time to do it yet.

If anyone has a good method for manipulating the relative time space thing, I could use some pointers.

Dunbar
 
here ya go...

object7.2.jpg

object7.2.webp
 
brokenparts said:
well it likes to trip after about 5mins of run time now... lol. I'm thinkin just replace it or should I think about tracking down a short somewhere? Good Lord I hate tracking down electrical problems... :doh:
Click to expand...

I don't think a short would act this way. I think a short would cause the breaker to trip right away. Something else is going on. I'm thinking it's motor related...maybe the resistance in the brushes/commutator goes up as the motor runs, drawing more amps until the breaker goes?

It's a cinch to pull the motor, and pull off the cover to look at the brushes. Just be super careful as you pull off the cover so that you don't dislodge the brushes and make them fly across the room!

If the brushes/commutator look good, and the motor spins freely, then you'll have to look elsewhere for the problem.
 
How much brush is "good enough" on the brushes?

I've got about 1/4", maybe a tad less.

But definitely having issues
 
After looking around a little, it seems that a "full size" new brush should be around 1/2 inch in length.

Based on that- I went out and got some brushes that are spec'd for a grinder or saw (based on the box). They measure 1/4" by just a shade less than 1/4" by 1/2".

The real trick is that on the generic brushes, the copper wiring attaches at the butt end instead of 90* from the butt. Put differently, on the old brushes the wire came out the "top" of the brush vs. the new one comes out the "end".

Anyhow, with a little Macgyvering it all fit together. Using a flat file I made the brushes a little thinner, to fit into the holder. Then I soldered the wires onto the old wires (new wires too short) to connect to the plastic socket. Then I crammed the brushes into the holder.... bad fit.

I used a dremel to extend the slot in the holder so that the wire could come out more easily.

Sorry no photo, it would save many words.

In the end, it worked ok. The fan spins great now, but is a little whining. I suppose that as the brushes get broken in to match the curve of the motor that it should be a little less noisy. I hope.

The brushes cost about $5 for the pair.

(there is another thread running on this: https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=148912 )
 
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