ROTW - Gumby (1 Viewer)

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Gumby

Gumby

Supamod
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Joined
Dec 13, 2002
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337
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Knee deep in hookers and gin
My Daily Driver/ primary wheeler is a 95 FZJ-80 with 132,000 miles and factory lockers. I bought it with 55,000 in 1999. I've done a few things to it to make it more comfortable and more capable off road. Most things I have modified are fuctional. I care mch more about how the rig works for me than how it looks. Currently, it is coming out of a Chicago winter with very little attention and a lot of wheeling. I'm hoping to attack the body work and some mechanicals once school gets out in June.

Modifications include:
 
Sliders - mandated by the Badlands Off Road park in Attica, IN. Factory running boards lasted one mild trip. Cheap-o Manik bar steps were completely destroyed when Woody showed my how the Badlands is supposed to be done. Overdone 1/4 2x4 tube rides directly under the body seam. Deflection spreads the load over the seam. 3/16 would be better. I'm contemplating speed holes, but I'm not sure the work involved would justify the weight savings. Frame outriggers are 1/4x1-1/2 square tube welded to 1/4x1-1/2 straps. The frame is sandwiched between two straps and bolted with grade 8 3/8 bolts. The tubes are 2nd generation. The first were too close to the body to prevent tree damage and did not include kickouts. The kick outs are stolen from All-Pro Offroad's 4Runner weld ons. They work amazingly well. I would never build anything for off road use with out them. They sliders are awaiting me building a powdercoating oven big enough to bake them.

the kick outs kick the rear end off of whatever you are rubbing against to protect the rear wheel well. If you turn into them it will also pivot the truck around the object.

Dual cats eliminated for one smaller cat. Helps to clear the sliders and replaces one that was all busted up from wheeling.

The sliders are really rusty from two quick trips wheeling. The one last month was on fresh paint and I rubbed it all off.
sliders1.jpg
sliders2.jpg
 
OME heavy/heavy 50mm springs. Caster correction bushings. OME L series shocks (hate them). 2" aluminium block sway bar spacers in front. 2" rear sway bar frame connection extenders in rear. Extended breathers and dropped brake hose to line brackets.

295/75R-16 BFG MT/R. Jury is still out. They do better on the rocks then they do in the mud. I was very happy with the 305/70R-16 Goodyear AT/s that I wore out. (old pic still has them) Powdercoated rims done with my cheapie Eastwood Co. powercoating kit in semi-gloss black. I have had 0 brake dust issues since. Center caps painted with semi-gloss black "plastic" paint. I don't even bother taking them off wheeling anymore. Why can't the factory paint them as well as I can with a rattle can?

Requisite ARB winch bar and Safari snorkel. I might not do the snorkel again. I get pretty tired of all the questions every where I go. It's functional and I have used it, but I hate talking to random stupid people.

Check out the T Y L E R curb flex shot. :cool:
powdercoat wheels.JPG
rim.jpg
 
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Mazda 3 in 1 double DIN head unit with 6 disk in-dash changer. The stock unit was having CD difficulties. I wanted a double DIN 3-in-1 because I listen to books on tape a lot. They are really expensive in the aftermarket. I also wanted a in-dash disk changer. I hated the cartridge-type in my T-100. I'd rather have a single disk than another one of those. I bought this one from eBay for $25. Used two wiring harnes kits to plug directly into the Toyota harness, eliminating the factory amps. The Mazda unit is 40Wx4, much better than the Toyota with the amps. Sock speakers except for the factory "subwoofer" I have a 150X2 Kenwood amp mounted where the stock unit was powering a cheap 2X8 cabinet I got from Radio Shack. It provides just the right amount of low end the Toyota could never get. The RS cabinet is removable, fits behind the third row and has taken a few years of real abuse just great. Not bad for $60. I did the whole audiophile thing in my RX-7. It was expensive and not worth a fraction of the money I spent.

Radio Shack CB in the ashtray slot. Fits great. Good enough for trail use.

Garmin GPS on dash mount that fits snugly into the useless spot about the radio. I can see it, the radio and the clock easily. I had a cupholder like the one they sell for the slot in my T-100. Every bump was an adventure in beverage spillage. I don't really need to do that again.

Center diff switch from Slee with C-dan pin-7 mod. Not in old pic. The diff swich is where the security sensor was. That is now moved to the lower row. Security no longer works after a snorkel test at the Badlands.
dash 80.jpg
 
Center console was bought for a back seat console for the kids. It didn't fit well. One day preparing for a trip, i took off the stock console lid and used the hinge to attach it in place of the front. It fits great. It raises the arm rest to arm resting level. Two giant adjustable cupholders. A little flip out door for my cell. Tons of room under the lid and I still have the CD storage under the console. I saw one a Target the other day and I thought about replacing it with a new one, but they are kinda spendy. It does cover up the e-brake handle, but I could get to it in an emergency and I don't use it otherwise. After 6 years in the rust belt, the bellcranks don't return. Next to the factory cupholder I mounted a power source. High amp constant power from the power seat feed charges my phone when the truck shuts off, powers my GPS and runs the inverter so the kids have TV/DVD/Playstation in the back during trips.
__tn_console.jpg
 
When replacing the amazing Panasonic battery with a red top Optima, I was frustrated with the factory fusable links and the 4 other wires I had tapped into the battery. I replaced all of that with a maxi-fuse power distribution center from a Mercury Sable. it fits nicely next to the Optima. One day soon I will put in a 91-92 battery tray on the other side and go with a second battery.

http://www.bonnifer.com/Cruiserhome/FZJ80distcenter.htm
open fuse box.jpg
fuse box.jpg
 
Rear bumper - fabbed for strength and departure angle. It uses 3/16" 2x4 tubing for the main body. 3/16 plate angles down to cover the rest of the 5" tall frame rails that have been beveled and bobbed 3" back. The rear tire carrier has been eliminated. 3/16 plate wings. 1/2 x 3 plate goes through the 2x4 and extends back 10 inches to bolt through the frame with 3 3/4 grade 8 bolts on either side. The front of those plates extends out 1-1/2 inches and is sandwiched between two 1/4 pieces and drilled for shackles. Class IV hitch reciever from Reese is welded on both sides and supported in the rear.

there was a major problem with the filler from Eastwood for the powdercoating. Serves me right for trying to make it pretty and filling the grinder marks. Eastwood refunded the filler and the powder I used, but no it needs re-doing.

pimping the 'Mud sticker. ;)
3-4 rear bumper.JPG
side view of bumper.JPG
rusty bumper.jpg
 
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Yo Gumby, thanks for taking week 2 dude.

What's with utilizing the side terminals on the Optisuckima? Heard using side terminals for high amp draws was a definitive no-no.
 
Nicely done Gummer, In case you wondered I stuck the thread for you while you was posting. ;)

I know you disagree with me Junk (big shock :flipoff2: ) But Optima's don't suck, I've got dual's and love em. :D

Gumster where did you obtain the center console and can we get a better shot of that? Would love to have a higher arm console on that side of the truck. Also the storage and everything sounds super cool and I kinda like that option better than any of the others I have seen.

Again very nicely done sir. :cheers:
 
Junk said:
Yo Gumby, thanks for taking week 2 dude.

What's with utilizing the side terminals on the Optisuckima? Heard using side terminals for high amp draws was a definitive no-no.
Click to expand...

No problem. I might add some stuff as the day goes on and I think of it.

They don't draw very high for the power distribution center. Probably 20-30 amps peak. GM has been using them for 400 amp starter draw for 30 years.
 
reffug said:
Nicely done Gummer, In case you wondered I stuck the thread for you while you was posting. ;)

Gumster where did you obtain the center console and can we get a better shot of that? Would love to have a higher arm console on that side of the truck. Also the storage and everything sounds super cool and I kinda like that option better than any of the others I have seen.
Click to expand...

Thanks. Still posting. I wrote it all up and was cutting and pasting the text when I did a dumb ass move and cut and pasted a link over the text. Now I'm going back and re-writing as I post.

the Center console was from a chain auto super-store. murrays or Pep boys. I saw it just the other day in Target. It has a little insulated part in the back part of the under lid storage that makes a good big flat spot to mount the hinge. I'll work on more pics today.
 
The black flares are off for good. I ripped them off a few times and fabbed up a c-clip system to hold them on to the factory t-hooks. That worked really well for a while. Four bolts for each and the truck was flareless for wheeling in 10 minutes. The trees at The Cliffs and I have modified the fenders so the flares no longer fit right. I found a lot of rust low in the corners where crap collects under the flares. I will be line-xing where the flares were.

too bad. I liked how they looked.
gumby_1.jpg
 
Gumby, if you get a chance, could you take a pic of your slider mounting point to the frame? I am thinking of a different design rather than large U-bolts that i'm using now. Nice write-up.

One other question on the cheapy powder-coat.........how cheap is cheap, and, i thought i remember hearing you say that you cooked the wheels in your shop oven; would you ruin a conventional oven baking a wheel?
 
Junk said:
What's with utilizing the side terminals on the Optisuckima? Heard using side terminals for high amp draws was a definitive no-no.
Click to expand...

Junk, the problem w/ using the side posts for high load draws is when doing it for prolonged periods of time. Ex. example winching all day off of them. If used under a heavy load for a long time they will get hot and melt. However, as Gumby pointed out, GM cars have been using them as the standard attachment method for years.

In summary, don't hook up your winch to the side posts and you'll be fine.

Ary
 
I'll look at getting a pic today.

The Eastwood gun is about $100. You'll need a pound and a half or so of powder. You must use a dedicated oven. You need one at least 16" across to do a wheel. The curing gasses stink. I doubt you'd ever get the smell out of the oven. I also sandblasted my rims first.
http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemType=CATEGORY&itemID=460
 
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