Slee diff drop bracket initial review (1 Viewer)

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A

Augie

Joined
Nov 16, 2003
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I got my diff drop installed and everything went very smooth. All the holes lined up properly and the hardware are correct. The bracket only lower 20 mm but it seems to alter the CV joint quite a bit. Sorry no install photo since I am too bussy installing it alone.

The only thing I would like to suggest is getting 1/2-3/4" drain holes pre drilled or puched by Slee for the next run. It would be OK if you live in dry county but over here with a lot of snow and mud it would fill up with dirt pretty quick and might cause it to rust prematurely. I just drilled a couple 1/2" holes to drain the trapped water.
 
was hoping to get to mine today.

question, why does(per instuctions) the frame need to be supported on jack stands? I cant see a need to do this.........but as always I am prolly missing something ;)

and Christo......lay off the popcorn :D
 
LOL............so its not really required(but a good idea) to put the frame on jack stands, see my jack stands got loaned out(yeah I know better)........and my buddy I loaned them to just had a baby last night........so I kinda hate to bug him today.

sleeoffroad said:
same reason every good installation instruction should say " Start and check for leaks!" :D
Click to expand...
 
OK, got a problem.

the 130mmx14 bolt(included with kit) that I think is for the rear diff mount is not the same tread pitch(or something) then the nut that goes in the top if it. Instructions make no mention of where this bolt goes, but I think its a misprint and is "suppose" to go on the rear mount.

So I guess I need to find my own hardware.

think is works like this

rear diff bolt is re-used as the front diff mount bolt.
front bolt no longer used
bolt in kit is for the rear diff mount.

Like I mentioned the nut don't fit the bolt.

John
 
Last edited:
OK, that is weird since we supplied the same hardware with all the kits. The bolt I believe is a 14mm x 1.5 pitch and so is the nut. You have it correct, front bolt not used, rear bolt used in front, new bolt used with old nut.

Is the 14mm c 130mm bolt the same threadpitch as the one removed? We have installed one at the shop and Augie had the same hardware. I can check on Monday if there was a screw-up in shipping.

Only difference is that we sent some early kits with the bolt painted since we were wainting for them to come back from coating. The coating should not effect the fitment, but it could possibly.
 
Got it, you are right, its the coating on the bolt. I had treid to run it down with just a rachet and it bound up. So after finding no stores open, I layed the OEM bolt next to the included bolt and the tread looks the same to me. So I stuck the bolt in the vise and crossed my fingers and ran it down with the 1/2 impact.........all better now, just need to clean the gunga off the treads :)

Other than that its was all good. Help to loosen the 2 bolts for the cross member mount just to help stuff line up.

So its all done but the skid plate going back on.

Nice product :) I took some before picks of the CV angle to compare with the after. Also of the old vrs new crossmember.



John

sleeoffroad said:
OK, that is weird since we supplied the same hardware with all the kits. The bolt I believe is a 14mm x 1.5 pitch and so is the nut. You have it correct, front bolt not used, rear bolt used in front, new bolt used with old nut.

Is the 14mm c 130mm bolt the same threadpitch as the one removed? We have installed one at the shop and Augie had the same hardware. I can check on Monday if there was a screw-up in shipping.

Only difference is that we sent some early kits with the bolt painted since we were wainting for them to come back from coating. The coating should not effect the fitment, but it could possibly.
Click to expand...
 
this thread is just text without pics :flipoff2:
 
Before the Slee diff drop, with Slee T bars about 2" over stock.
79206324.jpg


after the Slee diff drop
79206311.jpg


stock and Slee crossmember
79261887.jpg
 
I was reading through the threads in the FAQ section and I have a question on how the diff drop affects ride height. It looks like an OME T-bar gains you about 2 inches of lift. Does adding the diff drop give you more lift, or does it reduce cv angles so that you can crank the OME T-bar up to 3 inches? I'm just not getting how people are getting three inch lifts in the front. I see how the 863 gives you the lift in the rear, just a little confused on the front.

Greg
'01 UZJ100
 
I just go back from the Alignment shop this am because I installed Slee Drop Diff last weekend.

Here is what I got from the laser alignment printout on the front.

Before 0.5 After 0.4 - Cross Camber
Before 0.2 After -0.2 - Cross Caster
Before -0.6 After -0.5 - Cross SAT
Before 0.67 After 0.12 - Total Toe

Now all is in acceptable range (green)

Cheers,
 
the diff drop by itself has no effect on alignment........

Snook said:
I just go back from the Alignment shop this am because I installed Slee Drop Diff last weekend.

Here is what I got from the laser alignment printout on the front.

Before 0.5 After 0.4 - Cross Camber
Before 0.2 After -0.2 - Cross Caster
Before -0.6 After -0.5 - Cross SAT
Before 0.67 After 0.12 - Total Toe

Now all is in acceptable range (green)

Cheers,
Click to expand...
 
OK, that makes sense, I had my aligned right away after I did the t-bars

John

Snook said:
You're right, the drop bracket installation itself doesn't affect the alignment in any way.

However, lifting the front by 2.75" does affect the alignment after the diff bracket installation is completed.
Click to expand...
 
whats wrong?

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

hi guys! im new here. i would like to ask your suggestion. few months ago i changed my suspension with ome 4 shocks 2 rear spring and torsion bar. the shop who install my suspension kit cranked the torsion bar for more than 2inches. when i reached home i noticed that the inner axle boot was leaking grease, maybe the axle went beyond the limit of the height and the axle band went loose so i used a zip tie to clamp it temporarily now here is my questions.
1. should i drop the front? crank down the torsion bar? or
2. should i just buy the diff drop kit from slee?

also, when i run through the bump stop fast i could hear that the shock in front stretch to the maximun length. :confused:
 
the t-bars are cranked up to much, bring the front end back down to 1.5-2"

your shocks have no drop left in them.

might want to drop the diff also, it will help and maybe stop the CV leaks, it did on my 100


HDJ100L said:
whats wrong?

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

hi guys! im new here. i would like to ask your suggestion. few months ago i changed my suspension with ome 4 shocks 2 rear spring and torsion bar. the shop who install my suspension kit cranked the torsion bar for more than 2inches. when i reached home i noticed that the inner axle boot was leaking grease, maybe the axle went beyond the limit of the height and the axle band went loose so i used a zip tie to clamp it temporarily now here is my questions.
1. should i drop the front? crank down the torsion bar? or
2. should i just buy the diff drop kit from slee?

also, when i run through the bump stop fast i could hear that the shock in front stretch to the maximun length. :confused:
Click to expand...
 
You should buy the diff drop if its feasible to get it from here. I will extend your CV life quite a bit.

I talk to OME USA before I bought my shock asking about if OME front shock for 100 series Land Cruiser have extension bump stop or not? The answer is no, They dont have it or OME USA don't know about it. Extension bump stop are very important for 100 series since there are no other extension bump stop. The extension are just limited by upper ball joint and shock travel. If the replacement shock does not have extension bump stop it will accelerate shock wear and possibly will snap the upper ball joint. KYB are the only manufacturer that list extension bump stop when I look for my replacement. The sount you are describing are the soung of the shock overextending and this will lead to premature failure.

My advice are to get slee diff frop and also drop the front torsion bar seeting to a little under 2"

Good luck.
 
I think it (diff drop) is a crucial part of ANY LIFT involving T-bar cranking.... The benifits far outweigh any downsides (gee, are there ANY downsides?..other than cost, of course)..

Keeping as close (to stock) angles on the CV`s should be maintained whenever possible....Why not keep your 100 as reliable as you can, besides, that ugly grease spewing out of the boots puts a real damper on showing off your lift kit !!..

:D
 
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