New Pig and ride quality question

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Joined
Apr 16, 2007
Threads
18
Messages
100
Location
Cochabamba, Bolivia
Hi -
I just picked up a '76 FJ55 original 2F bored .040 over connected to a 4 speed with ambulance doors and a Ramsey 8000# winch. Side note, this thing is geared so low that when I get it all reved up in 1st low, I can walk faster! 60 mph is about top speed, although I only go up to about 55! I'll do a proper intro later with photos when my computer is working again, but here goes the story.

I bought the Pig in Santa Cruz - lowlands - 1400 ft and in following two days drove it over the mountains (about 12,000 ft passes) into the Cochabamba valley I live in - at 8400 ft. The fuel pump started going out after we crossed the first pass. I had to drive the last 400 vertical feet on the second pass in 4 low 1st gear 'cause I didn't have enough juice unless I got it to WOT and 3500 rpm. I had backfire through the carb and afterfire through the worn out muffler. I had problems accelerating down a 10% grade! It was quite a ride and we mainly coasted down the hill and my dad towed me in our support rig - a 70 something Ford Hi-boy - the last mile. So now I have a new fuel pump and won't go into the hills without a backup.


Long story short, the suspension has cracks in the spring hangers in a couple of places, the front end has been welded, the motor mounts are funky but intact and there is no major rust. The body is cracking on all the pillars and is so bad that the A pilllar pass. side actually moved back and forth about a 1/4" where it meets the hood when my wife was driving over the bad sections! (Good wife :princess:)

The good news is that I got it for $2000 (a screamin' deal down here) and were I to buy another 8000# winch, it would cost me $950 (T-max) or $1350 (Warn) or a PTO (out of the paper, $1000 +/-) so if all I come out with at the end is the winch, I've made money. The body can be welded up here for almost nothing and I can do the frame work - leading to the sticker - follows in the next post...



I have a friend who is selling a BJ60 ($5000) with a gutless 3B in it (no turbo at this altitude is worse than you can imagine) but the ride quality absolutely rocks - it is actually better on cobblestone than it is on uneven asphalt. I'm tempted to buy it, put it in the shop, install a 15B-T with a H55 and sell the Pig when it is ready. After all, who doesn't want a 155 hp turbo diesel? But as you know, Pigs are pretty nifty, so I'm not sure I want to go there especially since the 15 and tranny would run me, installed, in the neighborhood of $4000.

Ok, here's the question. I don't see any great structural differences in the suspension between the two. The Pig currently has bias ply 7.00R16 which are 30 inches tall and about 6 inches wide (truck type tires or pata cabras) with poor or nonexistent shocks. The BJ60 has 31x10.5 BFG A/Ts on it with some Japanese shocks. I want that same cushy ride on the Pig that my friend's 60 has. Can it be done?

I will be driving under 50 km/hr (30 mph) on cobblestone, gravel or dirt 95% of the time and airing up/down isn't a problem. The other 5% of the time I might kick it up to 100 km/hr (60 mph) when I drive down to Santa Cruz.

More important to me than flex, droop, and even traction (remember, I've got a winch and you can get lockers here) is that ride quality be as Caddy as it can be.

Can I get a sweet ride with OME Nitros (got a local source) and aired down bias ply? (The durability and ease of working on the bias ply with tubes is very attractive)

I can also get BFG M/T 31x10.5sR15 or Hankook 30x9.5R15 or Hankook 235/85R16 radials here, but I'm worried about their sidewalls giving out if I air down much from rocks and broken concrete.

So let your opinions rip - Thanks:grinpimp:
Ben
 
sure it can, its almost identical in every way except the 60 outweighs the pig a bit. i would say if you do a nice walk through, clean/grease and or replace everything you'll be pretty good. find out what springs and shocks he has if they are not stock and get yours close. if you are happy with the way his 60 rides, you can, with a little work and experamenting get your 55 just about as nice.

bias or radial, i dunno, i like radial and we are almost all running radials these days with no out of the ordinary problems.
 
I have a 62 and a 55; I went though my 55 with new bushings, greasable shackles/pins, and good shocks-it does ride like a cadillac compared to my 62, even with the 36" radial Swampers. I had my 35" Toyo M/T's on it and it was a DREAM to drive-but it has 60 axles, Psteering, SOA. ?. The 55 is my toy, the 62 is a DD with class- but now I am trying to find that same sweet spot w/the 62 and doesnt seem as easy???
 
Thanks guys-
I'm going to start by getting rid of the old tires and going to a radial. That should help a lot. The springs definitely need help, and like I said, the shocks are non-existent!

I got my fuel pump on, replaced all the components in my distribuitor including the non-USA advance, timing set to 7 BTDC (thanks to MarkW and FJ40Jim) and drove it around a bit today - with the new advance, right timing, and still-too-rich carb, it runs better here at 8400' than it did in the lowlands!!!
Ben
 
Thanks guys-
I'm going to start by getting rid of the old tires and going to a radial. That should help a lot. The springs definitely need help, and like I said, the shocks are non-existent!

I got my fuel pump on, replaced all the components in my distribuitor including the non-USA advance, timing set to 7 BTDC (thanks to MarkW and FJ40Jim) and drove it around a bit today - with the new advance, right timing, and still-too-rich carb, it runs better here at 8400' than it did in the lowlands!!!
Ben
Can you get Rancho shocks there? I run Rancho 9000s' on my pig with the fronts set at 3 out of 6 with 6 being hardest. The backs run at 1. Stil doesn't ride like a Caddy though. I hear that a Shackle reversal helps ride and handling. Good luck pig owner. Do the doors rattle, hinges shot? I am getting around to doing a hinge rebuild thread for the Pig, watch for it.
 
Update here - Our ARB dealer down here owns a sizeable spring manufacturing operation - he sells around Bolivia and also to neighboring countries. He has about a 3 day turn around on custom springs - 50/spring pack! So I am getting new front springs, urethane bushings, new shackles and greasable pins all around. I figure it will run me about $200 labor included for the new setup.

My plan is to keep the current arch, but with 6 leaves instead of 7 and increasing the center to front distance from 55 to 60cm (2 inches) to get my new longer shackles toward that optimum 45 degree forward without changing my axle location. I'm also getting ARB shocks if he has them for the 55. So I'll let you know what turns up.

rsbcruiser - My doors are actually pretty good - it is the body that is cracking off - but all I need is new rubber gaskets and I think I'm good to go. I'll be watching for your thread though - I'm sure it's coming for me too.
Ben
 
Update here - Our ARB dealer down here owns a sizeable spring manufacturing operation - he sells around Bolivia and also to neighboring countries. He has about a 3 day turn around on custom springs - 50/spring pack! So I am getting new front springs, urethane bushings, new shackles and greasable pins all around. I figure it will run me about $200 labor included for the new setup.

My plan is to keep the current arch, but with 6 leaves instead of 7 and increasing the center to front distance from 55 to 60cm (2 inches) to get my new longer shackles toward that optimum 45 degree forward without changing my axle location. I'm also getting ARB shocks if he has them for the 55. So I'll let you know what turns up.

rsbcruiser - My doors are actually pretty good - it is the body that is cracking off - but all I need is new rubber gaskets and I think I'm good to go. I'll be watching for your thread though - I'm sure it's coming for me too.
Ben
Howdy! Sounds like your heading in the right direction to make it run and ride better. I prefer the factory rubber bushings for the springs. They don't last as long as the poly ones, but they ride much softer. I only have about 10 years on my current set, so I can't really complain. I would look for a "D" load rating for your tires. They will hold up better to running underinflated that a "C". John
 
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