Who's running a Frankie's Off Road lift?

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Joined
Nov 28, 2006
Threads
101
Messages
594
Location
Leesport, PA
I have been researching as much as possible on lifts. Besides Nay and maybe two other members, who is currently running a F.O.R. lift? They seem to be in stock and ready to ship according to their site. Nay's writeups have been the biggest reason I am considering running this lift. Who else is running it and what do you have to say about it? I will be running it on a fairly light rig, but the truck does get heavily loaded come camping time. Do you feel it is worth the extra cost versus going the OME route. Any info at all would be appreciated, thanks.
 
I got the FOR kit but don't have many miles on it to really report yet. Also, I have yet to install the caster bushings but been too busy with work for the last couple of weeks and no time to work on my Land Cruiser. The springs do look like they are very high quality and the shocks are nice too. Once I get the bushings installed I'll do more of a write up on the recent upgrades.
 
that would be great vkfzj80. I'm very interested to see how the caster bushings that come with the kit work out for you, and if you have any driveshaft vibes.
 
I won't say too :grinpimp: much else here as people are understandably looking for other opinions, but I do have some additional usage experience beyond my ROTW writeup. One thing that has really caught my attention recently is this whole "stinkbug" issue. I saw CDAN's stripped rig for his paint job and the comment on gaining 2" of lift and how jacked up the rear end was...and it just hits home to me again and again that my suspension doesn't act like that.

For the last 2 weeks, I have been hauling mulch/compost from our "slash and mulch" recycling program with a 6x12 open U-hual trailer. The trailer is 2,485 lbs unloaded, and I am hauling about 1,500 lbs of material in each load (fun on 35's on stock gears at 7,500 ft. elevation :D). We could call it 1,000 lbs to be conservative.

So a tongue weight of 350 - 400 lbs on the rear hitch (I have Slee's receiver mounted in the stock rear bumper/crossmember, which miraculously has yet to rip my frame from the truck :flipoff2:). I have the 3rd row seats installed, 120 lbs of 7 and 8 year old boy installed in those seats, my hi-lift and tools behind the 3rd row, and my 35" Interco spare on the roof centered about over the axle. So let's call this 300 lbs in the cargo area and at least 300 leveraged back off the hitch. This is at least as much as a rear bumper/tire/carrier and storage drawers full of crap.

I don't get this "ass dragging" look under all of this load. The rear is compressing as it should through the entire range of loading, but the lines of the truck stay level without needing a pronounced stinkbug setup unloaded. I am hauling again this weekend and will take a picture of my 80 with and without trailer so people can see exactly how this looks so you can compare to pics you can find of OME loaded and unloaded. No matter what I say here, the pics are the pics and you can make up your mind for yourself.

I'm not affiliated with FOR, so I can only repeat my understanding of the suspension design. The FOR springs have a very small progressive rate wind. So when completely unloaded, you get a very soft ride of the lower rate. Add load and you quickly compress the little bit of progressive wind to the higher rate, so in seat of the pants, the ride never changes loaded vs. unloaded. It always feels about the same.

The springs are designed for a +/- .5% (1/2 of one percent) variance maximum in spring rate over the entire load and compression cycle. I watch all of these posts about going to 300 lb/in OME competition springs with shock valving in the 400/100 range, and it is a total contrast to the FOR suspension. The valving on my shocks is 168/73. The final production system has customized valving, so I don't even have the fine tuned version.

This is quite a contrast to the stiff coil/stiff shock valving approach. My 80 doesn't ride like a truck, loaded or unloaded, and it doesn't suffer from stinkbug or excessive ass dragging loaded or unloaded within what I would consider a normal usage range. As to whether others report the same results...we'll have to see. I'm just one guy and I got the suspension that I wanted ;)

The bottom line is you are buying much higher end spring in this kit, and that is the premium over OME. In my experience, Bilstein is also a more supple shock than OME in delivering the necessary damping without harshness. OME is a good shock - I've run both on two different rigs and I like Bilstein better paired up with a very high end spring.

Do a search on all of the posts about trying to keep OME level and consider why that seems to be such a day in/day out topic on this board. What is it that you do to keep a top heavy quad coil rig from acting so much like a slinky without turning it into a brick? One might be stiffen the spring rate and add a lot of armor/gear weight to address stinkbug and ride harshness, another is the approach FOR has taken.

I don't like the heavy suspension, heavy armor approach unless I've got coin for engine mods (now only turbo is an option on the 80). I'll be interested to hear the feedback as more of these hit the road.
 
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Glad you chimed in here Nay. I look forward to those loaded and unloaded pics. The whole reason I stumbled upon the FOR kit was due to the constant issues guys seem to be having with OME. No doubt OME makes an awesome product, and it was about the only lift option (as far as I know) for the 80's before Slee came along. There just seem to be too many compromises with the OME kits, do you go stinkbug with no load or drag a$$ with a load? Slees 4" and 6" seem great, but get a bit expensive with the new arms and whatnot.

Nay, I also completely agree with you on staying away from the heavy armor approach. Don't get me wrong, there are a lot of trucks on here that are very well thought out and a lot of vendors who make very nice bumpers, sliders, etc. The 80 weighs too much out of the box IMO though, and won't get any better by adding a ton of weight in armor. I believe tube bumpers and lighter weight armor is the way to go. Everyone seems to build their rig like the guys in Oz do, and that's great for them. I expect to see more light weight builds in the future, and that is the route I will be going as well.

Nay, what CC bushings are you running? I see the FOR kit comes with bushings, and I was wondering if anyone has them installed and can comment on them. Also, is there anything else you think would compliment the kit; ie: adjustable panhards, extended brake lines, DC shafts?
 
Nay,

Do you have the FOR castor correction on your truck? If so, do the castor correction bushings in the FOR kit return the steering sufficiently close to stock or does the steering become harder to control? Thanks!
 
Nay, so are you saying that you can hook up a trailer with a 400lbs tung weight and there is no compression? The truck sits the same before and after? And if you removed the kids, the tools and the rest of the stuff it would still sit the same? I guess I am confused. When you take the pics this weekend can you take some measurements as well?

Or are you saying the ride is the same loaded or unloaded?

99% of the issues with stinkbug and OME suspensions are people using the incorrect springs and then trying to raise the front to match the rear, instead of using the correct spring in the rear.
 
Well I have the Medium kit as recomended by ARB as a kit form and I have a stinkbug!
...and I thought it was normal!

I have 2 x OME 851 Front Coil Springs
2 x OME 860 Rear Coil Springs
2 x N73 Nitrocharger Shocks
2 x N74E Nitrocharger Shocks
1 x SD24 Steering Damper
1 x CA77B Caster Kit


 
Well I have the Medium kit as recomended by ARB as a kit form and I have a stinkbug!
...and I thought it was normal!

It is.

TR
 
Easiest way to fix the stink bug:

go camping ;p
 
Nay, so are you saying that you can hook up a trailer with a 400lbs tung weight and there is no compression? The truck sits the same before and after? And if you removed the kids, the tools and the rest of the stuff it would still sit the same? I guess I am confused. When you take the pics this weekend can you take some measurements as well?

Or are you saying the ride is the same loaded or unloaded?

99% of the issues with stinkbug and OME suspensions are people using the incorrect springs and then trying to raise the front to match the rear, instead of using the correct spring in the rear.

I am saying the ride is the same loaded and unloaded. The stinkbug/compression issue is something that requires more facts, as for now it's just an observation. The pics in this thread and comment on gaining 2" of lift really brought this back for me:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=159872&highlight=paint+job

If that thing sits about level with its trim and armor, that's a huge variance in ride height, at least visually. I'd have to add a thousand lbs in the rear alone to get that setup to sit level (and maybe it doesn't).

I was looking at my rig with trailer attached, and there is obviously clear compression (wouldn't be good if there wasn't :D), but it doesn't drop the rear way out. The lines of the rig are still good, and it doesn't have huge stinkbug unloaded.

I'll do the measurements and pics as I think that's what's important. In this regard, what I am saying is that you can start without a pronounced stinkbug and carry significant load without pronounced ass dragging. This seems to be somewhat difficult to accomplish with OME, for whatever reason. Perhaps simply user error as pointed out. Perhaps a design goal to ensure you never have less clearance in the rear wheel well than the front even under severe load. My four corners are all hub to fender 23.75" under normal load.

But I see so many posts about "just go camping" and "just add 500 lbs" and that seems excessive. Could be a "beauty in the eye of the beholder" issue for sure. Pics to follow on Sat :D
 
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Nay,

Do you have the FOR castor correction on your truck? If so, do the castor correction bushings in the FOR kit return the steering sufficiently close to stock or does the steering become harder to control? Thanks!

I have OME. The CC bushings in the kit are the blue ones out of oz that are 3 degree I think.

OME is ok...it's like running it on J springs. Another degree would help, but I can't comment on how close to stock feel you get.
 
Glad you chimed in here Nay. I look forward to those loaded and unloaded pics. The whole reason I stumbled upon the FOR kit was due to the constant issues guys seem to be having with OME. No doubt OME makes an awesome product, and it was about the only lift option (as far as I know) for the 80's before Slee came along. There just seem to be too many compromises with the OME kits, do you go stinkbug with no load or drag a$$ with a load? Slees 4" and 6" seem great, but get a bit expensive with the new arms and whatnot.

Nay, I also completely agree with you on staying away from the heavy armor approach. Don't get me wrong, there are a lot of trucks on here that are very well thought out and a lot of vendors who make very nice bumpers, sliders, etc. The 80 weighs too much out of the box IMO though, and won't get any better by adding a ton of weight in armor. I believe tube bumpers and lighter weight armor is the way to go. Everyone seems to build their rig like the guys in Oz do, and that's great for them. I expect to see more light weight builds in the future, and that is the route I will be going as well.

Nay, what CC bushings are you running? I see the FOR kit comes with bushings, and I was wondering if anyone has them installed and can comment on them. Also, is there anything else you think would compliment the kit; ie: adjustable panhards, extended brake lines, DC shafts?

I just can't see a visual shift on the front axle, so that panhard is stock. I did do an adjustable rear panhard. Front brakelines are stock. My rear center brakeline is stock, but the kit now comes with a drop bracket that I will also be adding.

I'm doing tube as well...that was part of the idea of the suspension design and is reflected in the FOR tube bumper that should hit the market before too long. I've done the heavy approach before and stripped it back down, so staying light as possible this time around.

And that is the design premise - fit 35's on a moderate lift, maximize ride quality in all conditions, balance flex offroad for rock crawling, choose bumpers and armor that minimize weight while maximizing front/rear clearance with good strength.

Anybody looking at any lift and armor combo should understand the design premise - that's how you make the right choice for you first time around.
 
I believe tube bumpers and lighter weight armor is the way to go.


If your a light weight wheeler those are ok (and there's nothing wrong with L.W. wheelers) but if you like to hit the hard stuff the light stuff won't hold up. The slider I just smashed is 3/8" wall steam pipe and my ARB bumper doesn't have a straight piece on it :o
 
I am saying the ride is the same loaded and unloaded. The stinkbug/compression issue is something that requires more facts, as for now it's just an observation. The pics in this thread and comment on gaining 2" of lift really brought this back for me:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=159872&highlight=paint+job

If that thing sits about level with its trim and armor, that's a huge variance in ride height, at least visually. I'd have to add a thousand lbs in the rear alone to get that setup to sit level (and maybe it doesn't).

Dan's rig is setup for ride hight he wants at the weight that he carries, though years of "tuning" or trial and error!:D I don't think he cares what it looks like when stripped to be painted.

I was looking at my rig with trailer attached, and there is obviously clear compression (wouldn't be good if there wasn't :D), but it doesn't drop the rear way out. The lines of the rig are still good, and it doesn't have huge stinkbug unloaded.

Good deal, your springs are well matched for YOUR rig and how YOU use it. I will bet that your springs wouldn't fair so well on Dan's rig.:D

... In this regard, what I am saying is that you can start without a pronounced stinkbug and carry significant load without pronounced ass dragging...

You can, springs a pretty easy concept, they all have a spring rate. most OME's are about 250 lb per in, so add 500 lbs over the rear axle and the truck reacts by the body moving down an inch. Lighter springs react more to additional weight, allow the suspension to move easier and transfer less bump/vibration to the cab/passengers. Heaver springs react less to additional weight, are more restrictive to suspension movement and transfer more bump/vibration to the cab/passengers. Pick your poison.:D

But I see so many posts about "just go camping" and "just add 500 lbs" and that seems excessive...

That's because the OME "kits" are designed for approximately 500 lbs (more or less depending on the kit) additional rear biased load. If you plan on not loading or evenly loading the truck don't buy the kit, spec the springs that you want/need to do the job.

All springs are made for a specific purpose, unfortunately there is no magic spring. When "kits" are made compromises have to be made, most successful manufactures compromise to their biggest customer base. If you happen to have a rig that fits that spec then great, if not some changes will need to be made to make them work for your use.

On good kits they give you some specs on the kit. If you research, they spec something like, this kit will give 2.5" of lift with armor, winch and 500 lbs cargo, also most will give the spring rate. If your rig is stock, you will get more lift, if you carry more load less lift, if you don't carry cargo in the rear the rear will ride higher.

One of the nice things about OME is, they make a large selection of springs, when working with a good dealer it's relatively easy to select a set that will work for your application. Also they have a strong resale market, so if you miss on the first try or the spec, plans for your rig change, it easy to sell them and recoup some of the expense of changing springs.
 
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