i just took some 1X1 square tube, cut off one corner, then welded it to my trailer lid. viola..instant rain gutters. should be able to do something similar to the top edge of any trailer...
https://forum.ih8mud.com/trailer-tech/263936-got-me-m101.html#post4473818
very cool design jason! no doubt that gate looks factory..nice clean job buddy! love that insta table on the backside...how neat is that? we should all have an M101 party! haha...
definitely going to follow this. jasons good at sticking metal together. whatever brackets or mounting solutions you've got planned for fuel/water cell & propane tanks make sure you make extra sets! :D
where'd ya find such a minty speciman? got plans to run pwr to it? let the fun begin...
if you're buddy needs cash... tell him to put it on CL for his asking price. I wouldn't want a wooden box for off road use. it wouldn't stand up to the bumps and beatings it would be subjected to. unless of course you just plan to use on very tame dirt and gravel roads...
looking awesome greg! jasons made some fantastic fenders for that thing...love it! now i want to go back to SUA and put more accomodating fenders on it. maybe ill hit up jason for some jerry can & propane tank mounts...
the cdn 1/4 ton also uses different axles. from what i remember, it uses a more standard 3500# bearings and races that are available from a trailer supply store. the 416's were a bit more of a bastard, and not 3500# iirc. many that rebuilt 416's have opted to swap out the complete axle to change...
nice job...lookin great so far! i like the widened fenders. do you have the measurements/specs for the fenders? looks like i can just take some sheet, and brake it to shape. is it permanently welded on? or still bolt on?
yep, 33's will fit without issue on a stock suspension cdn M101. you may want to stay with as narrow a tire though like a 255/85 or similar, and a narrow wheel..but i think your splits will solve the issue of an 8" 4.5BS wheel sticking out too far.
and to change to six bolt, just swap out the...
im pretty sure i used 18ga for the lid. i had a friend form it to make a 4'X6'X4" high lid. 1X2 was used along the long egdes & 1X1 was used for the short edges & cross brace. lid was domed to give more strength and to drip water off easier. i was originally going to make a frame of 1X2 all...
depending on how its formed. but for structural rigidity, many have braced the perimeter with square tube. 16ga is what i'd go with, maybe even thinner. i dont remember what i used, but i think it was lighter than 16ga...
im running 295s, a SO on 80 wheels. its a bit tall, but not overly tippy or top heavy. ive also taken it out with SO & stock wheels & tires. put it this way, the SO costs nothing, and is easy to put back to stock...so theres no reason you cant try both.
ive seen some with 33's & SU, and it...
whats the over all width (outside sidwall to outside sidewall) that you're wanting? get that measurement, then you can deduct about half an inch for the sidewall buldge, then subtract 3.5 from both ends (8"w-4.5bs) and that will give you wms to wms. subtract the thickness of the drum brakes...
295/75/16 bfg AT's on 80 series wheels. wanted to keep it close to tow rig size in case i need a 2nd or 3rd spare. plus...it just looks better when everything matches.
looks fine for road use, but doesnt look nearly as strong to withstand off road abuse. at least without reinforcements on the frame, body, axles, tongue..etc.
i use those for my tailgate hinge. for the lid hinge, i used 3 SS HD door hinges, with needle bearings. its stout, doesnt flex when lid opens & closes, and is easily removable.
yep, same bearings & races from southwest wheel. looks like youve already got the 6bolt drums...so maybe you can get away with just replacing the bearings & races?