Yes, it had been disconnected a couple times, as I took said battery to the dealer for warranty, and zero noted resistance between post and terminals. And 100% will change those terminals either way.
Sorry folks, my life is...well...inhumane lately between work + health.
So I do have an update, but none of you here will believe me, and I honestly don't know what to make of this anymore.
Received the new terminals, went to put them in and noticed the "replacement" Group27 finally had fully...
Dude, I mean maybe. I love these 84-monthers and Toyota refuses to warranty as it tests out fine. My own little computer-controlled charger says it tests 100%. Wroth the try I thin.
Step 4. Measure the little jump battery voltage. Looks the same a bit over 12VDC:
Step 5. Hook up the jump battery to the clamp bolts. Note no additional torquing or squeezing or anything on the terminal blocks. Just a simple hook up. Et voila she starts. Hesitates, but then starts...
Here are my steps with some video, maybe someone could help diagnose?
Step 1. Establish good battery. Which I have and had independently done as well.
Step 2. Install battery and measure voltage. A bit over 12VDC measured:
Step 3. Try and start the car. You see the dash light for a...
Even driving for several hours on end.
Battery light does not stay on.
This may be, but this is a problem before even the alternator takes its first rotation :-(
Zero ohms resistance across both fusible links. 12.3ish volts at rest and 13.5VDC once running. The tiniest of all sparks when reattaching to terminals. No corrosion. Ground cables sound and firm.
I'm open to further testing and continuity/resistance tests that could be recommend. Thus...
My FJ80 (3FE) won't start, needs a jump every time, won't stay running at low RPMs. AND THE BATTERY checks out.
My 80 will not start without a jump. Dash lights don't come on. Thought it was (naturally) the battery. Right?
Nope, battery checks out brilliantly. Is does not discharge much if...
Wait, the HEADS are different, correct? One can't simply bolt the EFI intake manifolds to the -F head, yeah?
Also, let's assume one goes from -F to a -FE conversion. How picky is the ECU in needing EGR, O2, transmission input, &c &c?