Yep, I have only seen 2 fail slowly but both did exactly what you describe. Try this.
Keep a midget in your back seat and arm him with a squirt bottle of cool water. When this happens have him/her jump out and spray down the ignightor. The quick drop in temp will get it working if that is the...
Look at the coil and ignightor. There is a ground to the ignitor but that ususally is an "all the time" sort of issue.
Does it/did it get worse after driving a while or now that the weather is heating up? I chased that for a long while and it was the ignightor heating up and cutting out...
you will need 3"+ shackles and at least a 2" body lift and trim the crap out of your fenders if you really want to wheel it. I had the above set up with 35" and it would still rub when bound up enough.
No problem on the shackles but you will need 2' to 4' shims to get the castor correct.
I spend a LOT of time with 3FEs. Good, compression, good lookng with known history and all accessories in place with low miles $500-$800; outsde of the other conditions maybe $200-$300. A44F as above $700ish but with any question about it = worthless. Transfer case about $400-$500
What he said... the O2s are good from Toyota nd worth the extra money. Most all cruisers will need new O2s after 150k or so even if you are not getting the O2 code. Good idea to replace them and the temp sensor as well.
The poo might be caught in a diverticuli; a colonoscopy is a good diagnostic tool in situations like this. This time the colonoscopy will be used for diagnostic purposes; not pleasure.
Does it have fuel in the sight glass prior to trying to start it? Very common for fuel to elak out over tiem and you need to let the pump fill the bowl priro to it starting. Can you spray starting fluid into the top and have it fire up?
A few reasons:
The toybox is a massive weak link in the system. The input shaft will become the "fuse" in the driveline
Install is a bit involved with lots of fabricating to do it right and make it easy to use
Longer lenght of tranny/TC/TC combo with very short rear shaft and very long ft...
Are you talking 3rd members or just r+p? Not worth swapping r+p unless you cant find good 62 used. No problem at all on swap of r+p, jsut like leggos, it all works
85 and up all flanges are the same, before 85 then grab the flanges off the 60 3rds and swap them onto the 62 3rds. Worth about $200ish each, maybe $300 if really nice. Put the used rear in your ft and used ft in your rear.
All of the above will head you in the right direction but if that does not get the problem check the EVAP sytem. There is a valve that sends vapors to the cannister, that can go out and/or the cannister can be blocked or full. Lok in the emissions FSM for details.
Mr. Poo.
That there be the fast idle screw to adj the choke idle speed. Does nothing to base idle with choke off. The screw you want is by the base on the same side. Go back to that spring then go in towards the base of the carb and you will find it, idle adj screw. (Wait till Jim actually...