its been years but if I recall I just drilled holes in the bottom of the tuffy and mounted it directly to the old console brackets(what you have), I moved it rearward a bit at the same time been working great for close to 20 years
edit, I also moved the tuffy a bit off center toward the passage...
Not sure if that's correct, I understood City Racer reproduces (or has them done) using an original OEM piece for design. I know this because I sent Roger new OEM WS for fj40 bifold doors, he reproduced it and now sells it.
Afaik this is not off the shelf stuff from some else
yeah.......I did a 60, 40 and 45 and I can't say I have noticed that....but won't swear to it either. I'll check
I didn't use the Toyota harness, the 40 and 60 had ARB harnesses
Matt did, may still. Its a heck of a deal.
I got mine at the local dealer,
I know a Jeep parts dealer that was paying $60 a lamp(exact same) I think he was reselling for $80 or more......I showed him what I got in the toyota box and his jaw dropped.
best buy $ and I think performance wise(I have IPF, Hella, Cibie)....are the E code H4 Kioto 7" head light assembly, 2 lamps, 2 H4 bulbs(55/60) i a very nice headlight harness/relays, big bag of zip ties and cost about $40 from Toyota, all made in Japan
I swapped my hella H4 bulbs over, think...
Kill switches and LoJack. Putting the T case in neutral will also probably buy you a few minutes
there was is Israeli company that made a pretty slick trany lock......might be the one a few post above
when I got my 86 in 1999 it had a key slot on the front fender, that was part of the 1986...
I changed to Mobile 1 a few years ago in all but 1 of my Cruisers(the 64 45LV), no leaks at all. We don't put a ton of miles on any of our rigs yearly, so I just change them all once a year now. I toss in some ZLP in the F,2F or 3fe
US spec 62 is just tighter with the 3FE, its acc and belt routing I think are most the reason, shroud may be deeper. I know hate doing belts on the 62 and always end up cursing at it.
but you have a 3f and it should be just like a 2F in a 60, you won't have a problem.
You can do it with out cutting or removing(or even loosing) the fan shroud. A 62 is not as easy as a 60 if I recall.
Should take 30 mins tops...unless you loose one of the nuts(I keep spares)
My old fj45 was doing something similar, I know the dizzy are different(points vrs electriconic) but in my case the breaker plate(I think that the right name) was sticking...I lubed it up and timing stays put....after I redid the timing.
here is what I got. the rubber with the white clips is the blackout rubber(no chrome) and does work just fine, clips into holes in door
rubber with the black clips is I believe the correct part to work with the chrome. (I only have the 1)
as I mentioned I am not even sure how the old chrome...
hmmm. I don't know.
there was no way(at least I could figure out) the blackout rubber with the white clips was going to fit the chrome trim and the holes in the chrome do no line up with the holes in the door. (I didn't look well enough before I took the chrome off, so not even sure how they...
that is what I run in most the cruisers(besides the 100 series), especial the wifes fj62 which doesn't get driven a lot. If I know I am going to burn thru a tank of gas in a week or 2 I run Costco 91 octane
since I started using non ethanol 5 or so years ago in all my small engines(over a dozen...
what's the scoop on the 60 series door belt molding(weatherstriping) ? (I searched and can't seem to find the right post)
Yesterday i went out and installed a new window run(drivers door) and while I was at it did the outer belt molding(the chrome trim rubber outside of window) I took off the...
that is the vacuum switch and its in the stock location. the diagram makes it look like its someplace else(like carb or manifold)
its been awhile, but I think the vac switch only comes into play during coasting or off the throttle or something like that.........but I will wait to be corrected...