Is there anything else that he should replace "why he is in there" replacing the fan bracket? The fan pulley? The fan clutch? Are they likely to be nearing the end of their useful lives?
Deleting the links to the videos-- yours works better.
It really sounds like there is a bad bearing in there somewhere-- but I am not sure if it is the fan clutch. Maybe the tension adjuster? Maybe the alternator?
But you should not see wobble in the fan-- so maybe the fan clutch
Wow. You have raised some important issues. I didn't even know there was such a thing as a "fitting kit" to be missing.
I am probably going to have some more questions later-- but can you first clarify the comment on setting preload above?
In the video his procedure is basically as...
One more thing-- as I mentioned above, we had a real problem getting the cone washers out. The shop had used goop as sealant. The made the brass drift method of removing cone washers impossible. But my Son in Law had a cool set of pliers that was able to pull out the cone washers even with...
He followed the procedure in the video above to get everything put together.
Now we just need to check the other side.
Thanks for all the help everyone.
Jared
So we were able to get this fixed up and put together. In the end my Son in Law used a thread file. with the right 1.5mm pitch the clean up the threads, as recommended by @dirtj00. Those files are at NAPA and Amazon for 10-20 bucks, but we found that Autozone had one in the free tool rental...
Hopefully we don't need it--- but do you have a link to that thread chaser?
I searched and found a bunch of 42mm x 1.5, but not sure what would be the best approach.
So we had to order new spindle nuts -- not even the Toyota Dealer had them in stock. We ordered two sets of nuts (thinking about the other side), along with a spindle dust shield and gasket from cruiserteq.
And after searching-- those spindles are expensive. 690 bucks from toyota parts...
So as I said before, we are trying to find some new spindle nuts so we can first figure out if the threads on the spindle itself are damaged. If they are we will try and clean them up, but we are also going to have to figure out if there is other damage to the spindle. Or maybe just buy a new...
And two more things--the inner wheel bearing seal was damaged when we pulled it off, and it looks like the inner lip on the spindle dust seal is missing chunks.
The outer spindle nut was just sitting there loose.
The lock washer was broken into pieces.
We are able to unscrew the inner spindle nut and pull off the rotor, but when tried to screw either spindle nut back on to the spindle we couldn't do it. Either the threads on both spindle nuts...
Well this has turned out to be a big mess.
First, we pull the dust cap and the c-clip is just sitting at the end of the axle shaft. No longer in the groove.
Second, it took us a while to get the hub off. They had used some sort of gasket goop instead of the paper gasket, and it was a bit of...
Thanks for all the advice.
I am not super confident in our ability to accurately determine if the bearings are OK. Who knows how long they have been riding with the incorrect preload. And once we take them out it would seem foolish to put the same bearings back in unless we are 100 percent...
We will need new seals if we remove the rotor and remove and repack the bearings.
But not if we just tightened down the axle/bearing nuts to properly preload without removing rotor-- so it seems like you are saying we definitely should remove the rotor, repack the bearings at a minimum...
Thanks everyone for their advice. I think @hoser is right about the bearings. There is just no way the rotor should move like that (see the video). They were either not preloaded properly, not locked into place properly, or both. And I think @Malleus is probably right about the pins--they...
My SIL checked the receipts from the previous owner. A full brake job with new bearings was done July 2022-- 14 months ago-- and less than 12k miles ago. So just slightly out of their stated warranty. And they are in Arizona so it probably does not matter.
Video-- another try
So I hope you can see that video. It is a link to google drive. The video shows that there is all kinds of play in the rotor--the rotor can move so much it clanks against the caliper. Seems a little nuts.
Are you saying we should buy some new pins and install them? I told my SIL to pick up some grease with the idea that they might need to be greased.
Jared
PS: I just noticed that the clip on the bottom pin was not properly clipped into the pads.