The cost of buying and installing sleeves then boring. Sleeves are not machined to be a install and run setup. Parent bore only requires machining. Plus pistons and rings for both scenarios.
Still available on this end through Partsouq.
I've also used drivetech gears in 3.73, same as Marks and PDI I believe, with no problems at all. they set up very easily, like OEM. They are Japanese.
Just an FYI, you can use your FT valve cover on the FTE head. I ran one on mine for years. You just have to plug the unused holes with 6mm grub screws and a bit of sealant.
Like gerg said, work that engine. Give it the best possible chance to seat the rings.
Some rebuilt 1hzs here took 20k kms for the oil usage to settle down. They were using as much as 1L per 1000kms
That all depends on what the H150f is out of and what its going back into. The H150f out of a 1hz 80 series has small input shaft, fine spline. The H150f out of a HDJ79 has the larger input, coarse 14 spline. The H150f out of a VDJ79 has the same coarse spline as the HDJ but is longer in length...
I would strongly recommend new pistons too. Pics 2 and 4 show heat related cracking of the pistons at the combustion bowl. If this is left to its own devices, they will crack all the way through.
This is what the end result is
Cracked completely in half.
The injection pump is gear driven off the crank. The timing belt drives the cam off the injection pump so if your trying to turn the injection pump, you're trying to turn the whole engine. I personally don't think its the root cause.
This has more to do with the lack of fuelling than the turbo itself (emission control). Bring in more fuel down low and you'll be suprised what that std ct26 can do. For a mild upgrade, run a ct20b of a 1hdfte like dougal said above
Remove the oil filter and cut it open. Remove the media and lay it out on the bench. Check for particle buildup. If you find any, pull the sump and inspect all the BEB's.
This is a post off the LCOOL forum. It may shed some more info.
There has been much discussion over the years on converting an R151 to a H150 or H151. Some info good some right of track, her are some things I have just learnt by doing the conversion.
If you have a HZJ105 STD you need a h150...
You are correct.
The HZJ80 (1HZ) has a fine spline H150f.
The HDJ78/9 has the coarse spline H150f. (Direct fit)
The FZJ78/9 also has the coarse spline H150f. (Need 1hd bellhousing)
The VDJ76/8/9 has the H150f/H152f but needs the 1hd bellhousing and input shaft.
A GCC spec GRJ79 will also...
Just as a heads up,
The H150f out of a 1hz 80 has 21 spline input shaft.
The H150f out of a Hdj78/79 has the coarse 14 spline input shaft. The Hdj7x/ vdj7x never had the H151f box not that there's much difference.
If your looking for a h series box, look for a box out of a hdj78/79...
Check the boost line pressure damper and hose for cracks, these quite regularly fail causing the boost signal at the map sensor to read low, thus not delivering correct fueling. It causes the exact symptoms you are describing.