I was under the truck last night and noticed my 8274 is leaking again. I tore it apart while back and rebuilt it with a seal kit. Did not see any abnormal damage.
I made sure to bolt it square and straight when I reinstalled it.
The only thing I can think of that could cause it to keep leaking...
I do not recall what o-ring I used on the brake shaft. It must have been oem Warn, a quick email search and I don't see anything.
Regarding the leak I had. The drum was leaking where it meets the main housing / gear assembly. I bought a standard warn seal kit to replace the o-ring and nylon...
Update on the not reeling in issue. I replaced a single bad solenoid for $17 as a temporary fix until I get motivated to upgrade to an albright. I will also swap out the F1, F2, and A cables down the line to larger gauge.
I used this cheap solenoid to get me going:
Standard Motor Products...
Yes, I noticed the old original wires were rather small. But since the run distance was small maybe they could get away with it. I tripled the run length by relocating the control box.
I'll throw an ammeter on the wires when winching to see what kind of amps I am pulled and see if I'm playing...
I have the harbor freight crimper and I threw together some 4 Ga line on there for the moment. I definitely think it's too small for the task.
How many amps run between the solenoid and the motor? All 400 amps at max pull?
Fixed the seal, installed winch, and now one of the old historic 8274 solenoids gave out.
I want to upgrade to an albright or one of the warn units. What is the new thing to use this year?
Second question. I relocated the solenoid box a foot away to hide under my grill. What gauge wire is...
Update:
A seal in the 8274 is leaking. Saw the oil on my skid plate. I'll have to pull it out and see why it's leaking after such a short period. (edit: Warn 8680 kit would have the seal needed to potentially fix my leak.) This assumes the leak is a bad seal. But why is it leaking? hmm.
Snatch...
The Hi Lift extreme models can be used as more than a jack. They can be used like jaws of life to open a rolled truck's A/B pillars allowing the car to be drivable.
Clean maintained hi lifts are the key. They become more dangerous when they get worn pins and don't operate when caked in dust...
On my FJ62 I run a battery switch between my dual batteries and my M12000. This keeps the winch power disconnected until I want to have it on.
On my 4Runner I have an anderson connector next to my 8274 so if there is a problem I can unplug it.
For your size I'd suggest a Warn M12000. My friend in his FZJ80 ran a M10000 for a year or so (they don't make them anymore) and it was underpowered for the rig. Avoid the VR line of winches from Warn as they are cheaper and meant to compete with harbor freight etc.
An air compressor and a tire patch kit have saved more trips than recovery gear. Air compressor size depends on the max tire size you plan on running and whether you'll want an air tank etc.
I am the president of LA County Trailcrew 4x4's and once Covid Shutdowns are over I'd be happy to have you come over and see all the different items you are asking about.
A lot of what you are asking about is based on what your rig will end up as and where you plan on taking it. Are you always...
I spliced an eye in the end of my winch line then girth hitched it to the drum. Similar in strength to the knot shown above. (ie larks foot versus clove hitch).
I went with zero gauge welding pliable wire from one battery to the other. I think, don't quote me, that I ran 2 gauge from winch to the manual switch since it was such a short run.
@LS13
Calculate the max load of the winch. Verify the battery switch can handle that load.
Then measure how long the 2 AWG run will be. There are charts showing you the max amps allowed over a length of wire. You need to make sure you won't melt the wire and start a fire.
Only you can...