Yes, very true. I should have mentioned this. This is why I am a big fan of trunnion bearings for caster correction because they don't affect driveline angle. A combination of the trunnion bearings and caster plates, drop brackets, or custom arms is the way to go.
Other than that the best...
I was running a 2" old man emu lift with 35"s on that rig. Plenty of people run 35"'s with 2-3 degrees with no issues. It's definitely do able especially if everything else is up to par.
But 4 - 6 degrees will make a noticeable difference. Especially on high speed gravel roads with ruts from...
The only photos I have ever seen of this failure is where the guy actually notched the arms, he didn't gracefully clearance the arms with smooth lines and skillful grinding lol.
The taller tires don't change caster, but the bigger tires create more force on the steering than oem tires so oem caster specs are not adequate.
Think of it like this. Proper caster helps keep your tire from wandering and following when your tire hits something like a bump, ridge, or rut in...
They offer a set for a 2" lift and a set for a 3"-4" lift.
I like the looks of these arms. I am putting them on my list for when I re do the suspension and go for 37"s.
I really like how this company states that the optimum caster for non oem vehicles is 4-6 degrees. It drives me nuts how...
Your getting there, looks like you need caster bushings, caster plates, or caster correction trunnion bearings.
Personally I would recommend the trunnion bearings 1st and plates 2nd.
Absolutely lol, the hub left a 100 yard trench in the dirt road. I was doing about 60 mph when it happened. Driving 50 miles home with 3 wheel studs was almost as scary as the wheel coming off.
@eimkeith makes weld in drop brackets. They do the same thing as the man a fre and Ironman brackets but they are a little more low profile and won't hang up on the rocks as bad as the man a fre and Ironman brackets. His RAM drop mounts are definitely the way to go for caster correction.
Oh snap!!! Literally. I bet that was a fun day.
Like @Box Rocket mentioned, it looks like those arms were seriously notched or maybe they broke that way.....
Either way I would still clearance mine again in the same manner as box rocket detailed in his photos. Just removing that little ridge...
Plenty of people have done this without issue. I totaled the rig and bent the frame but the arms stayed true.
I would almost think the casting ridge that I ground off would he a stress riser.
I used a grinder to clearance the oem arms on my previous rig. I had to take 5mm off the top so they would clear my steering linkage.
I have spent countless hours behind an angle grinder and I can for sure say that the oem arms are not typical mild steel. They sparked liked high carbon steel...