Well, it has to get driven cause I’m not able to do the repair right now. Don’t have the time and working away from the location. If I had to pay somebody to work the bottom end that’s what I was hoping. But… I guess i’ll just have to keep my fingers crossed. Most people have said it’ll run...
Yeah that’s what I was wondering. Wasn’t sure how much clearance there is between the crank (wiggly thing) and the bottom of the cylinder. I’m just trying to avoid rebuilding something that I’ll be. Pulling in the near future.
Thanks- I appreciate the info. I trust the shop that looked at it as I’ve had a long relationship with them as well. Coincidence that the PO had taken it there. He’s a Toyota/cruiser guy and very familiar with jap motors. But I get it- gotta double check. I was hoping that it might be something...
Ok. I just know the shop diagnosed it for the PO. They did say it goes away with the plug pulled. That’s how they figured 1 and 3 but I’ll follow up as well. It’s for sure a distinct knock during idle and acceleration but drops off on decel.
Well a reputable shop said piston slap. What I’m not sure of is what causes it. Is it bad bearings or cylinder/piston wear.
And I’m also not sure if you can get enough clearance to work from the bottom end for a “temp” repair.
Situation: I bought a 97 80 from my friend with piston slap in cylinder 1 and 3.
I’m planning on doing an LS swap in the next two years but I’d like to not have it knocking for that amount of time. I intended to do it sooner but life.
So the question is: do the crank bearings go bad and that...