Unfortunately my taillights are a sealed unit, so I can’t swap them. Biggest problem is I don’t seem to allow enough time to really dig into it. I’m not complaining, though, I have driving cruiser built my way that just doesn’t happen to have blinkers. I mean it’s mostly legal….
So the colors are the different pinouts. All the wires are green with whatever is indicated by the chart - except the solid green wire. If there is a line going from one color to another, then my multimeter showed continuity in the indicated switch position.
In my case I believe I have a...
I tested the multimeter and registered .02, subsequently all the other connections showed the same. This leads me to believe all the connections are good. With that knowledge, I decided not to tear the switch down- if this seems like a mistake let me know.
Just for clarification, since this a...
Good news- it came apart nicely-ish. I warmed it up with the heat gun, per @Coolerman and then was able to wiggle it apart with a couple pairs of channel locks. The only reason for the “ish” I broke a small amount of plastic off one corner. Honestly, I usually cause more damage then that anyway...
The dark marks are from me using tools to try and free the halves. I can see the tabs that are holding them together, but no luck getting the haves apart.
So is there a technique to separating them? They have likely been together for 50 years.
Let’s say your right, next step is to cut it out? Not looking forward repairing wires under the dash.
So that makes sense. I have the switch removed from the dash to clean it. I guess the question is how do you separate wiring connection to the harness? I have been trying pull it apart for an hour and it’s not budging. It’s not helping that I’m working under the dash, but there must be a trick...