Check the cooling enrichment, page 56, same function as a choke:
https://documents.holley.com/199r11321.pdf
I think you can adjust by a general %, or you can also pull up the actual curve and manually add fuel.
This is typical. The throttle blades are arbitrarily set during assembly. The hot adjustment is a means of dialing it in for computer control of idle.
If you have the throttle blades closed all of the, then you have a vacuum leak. Air is still coming in from somewhere and the computer will feed...
If you have the WOT AFR set above 12.5, try lowering it down to 12.5 or so. Much over that usually results in bogging/less power. Your cruise might be a little lean too. We usually go 14 or so and adjust from there.
Your timing could probably be bumped as well. Usually guys end up around 10 or...
You may be able to tune this for better full throttle performance.
What is your WOT AFR? How does the real time AFR reading respond when you give it full throttle? (computer doesn’t not need to see 100% to go into the WOT programming).
What is your timing adjusted to? Vac advance hooked up...
You can cut it short and either cap or fill with epoxy.
There is a similar sized manifold vacuum port on the Sniper you can use if you are reconnecting the charcoal canister.
There’s two smaller ones out, but they have a smaller bolt pattern than the LC intake manifold. The air cleaner neck would still need an adapter to run the stock air cleaner as well.
The rest of it is spec’d for the same HP as the 2300 unit.
So no real benefit to using that one.
The Sniper is a TBI style, but not a GM TBI. I say it is an electronic carb only because it is one self-contained unit, like a carb. That is where the similarities end. The 2F intake is as ideal for fuel injection as it is for a carb.
The GM has two injectors, one per throttle bore, spraying...
The DUIs seem pretty reliable. They are definitely a better build quality than the cheaper generic HEI units. The factory distributors are nice and high quality, but getting harder to find.
The Sniper & 2FE are apples/oranges.
The Sniper is basically an electronic carburetor, and only...
That is one of the vacuum switching valves for the smog system. You can leave it as is or plug it. You’ll have to extend the temp sender wires if you put the sender there, the lead is too short. But it works.
Most of the spaghetti would have nothing to connect to and the Sniper would interfere with the air injection rail.
If you have to pass a visual inspection, it would not pass any way, but if you just have to pass a tailpipe, it may if you keep the cat.
It may need a few more turns of the crank to start.
It may not fire after the first spark plug spark like a modern directly injected vehicle. It is still just a digital carb after all.
Once started though, it is nothing like a carb.
My experience has been that these definitely benefit from the full priming sequence, which takes several seconds to complete. Even then it sometimes doesn’t “catch” when you start it. Not at all like a cold carb though, but you can’t always just turn the key and start.
Once started, it should...
Give me a shout. We modify an inexpensive off-the-shelf adapter so that it sits on the FJ60 carb insulator, which is perfect for getting the height to clear the manifold studs and also acts as a heat shield for the Sniper computer. Comes with all mounting hardware.
I try to keep new carb...
The best way to seal the block off plate is to remove the fuel pump spacer, make sure the block is 100% clean of the old gasket, clean with brake cleaner, then use RTV only. Let it cure before firing the engine.
I ran an inline pump all the way in the engine compartment with an AFI setup... it didn't care. It stalled out from fuel starvation on one particular very long 45 degree climb, but that is the only time it did that.
If you put the pump as far back on the frame as you can get it, you won't have...