Yup, the choke is missing because the new carb has an electric choke. Starts up better in the winter (and all the time) now than it did with the manual choke.
Center console is a Tuffy locking console.
I completely agree that the body condition will cause most to stay away. I guess I was hoping for the right customer who is able to perform body and interior work themselves and would appreciate a large list of mechanical items to already be checked off. Maybe they don't exist.
No offers? Just because all the fun projecting has been done already? I'd prefer a sell but am open to trades on a newer 3/4 ton. I currently have a 2007 F250 that I'm willing to work into the right deal.
Maybe no offers is a sign that my 60 and I should stay together forever?
Selling for usual reasons, new kid, no time to project etc. What's left to project on this truck is basically only cosmetic IMHO. Clean KS title in hand. 190k miles. Price reduced: $12k.
The good:
• BFG 33” KO2s like new
• ARB front bumper
• Warn winch works but old
• Kaymar rear bumper/tire...
After doing most of what was recommended throughout this post, I replaced the fuel pump yesterday with an OEM pump. This seems to have fixed the problem but I will post an update in a few days after I drive it around. Everything was just dandy after I put on the aftermarket fuel pump but only...
I don't know what to do about the clogged charcoal canister. You can't get them anymore. I've seen guys on here putting GM ones on that kinda work and some guys who switch the hoses so it "bypasses" the canister. I just figured it wasn't worth messing with because it couldn't cause problems this...
My evap emissions canister is crap. Pretty sure it's from 1987. But when I brought it up to the mechanic, he said that should have nothing to do with this problem. I can't remember what his explanation was though. I believe it mainly centered around the fact that the eval canister has nothing to...
When I remove the gas cap, I do not hear any air noise and I know exactly what you're talking about because it did that... before I clamped the return line. Here's where I'm dumb: I never check whether it was positive or negative pressure causing the equalization... i know i know.
I believe...
Also, if this were you're truck what would your action be to identify the exact problem like where the blockage may be? Would you replace the fuel pump if you couldn't find a blockage then? Let me know what you're process would be cause this is what I'm doing this weekend.
How is it possible the fuel pump is bad or there is a blockage if, once she get's started, she runs perfect except the occasional stumble in 3rd gear. Not saying you're wrong, just trying to wrap my head around it.
I did not use OEM as it was 4x the price and I couldn't find any reason it was better on the forum or elsewhere.
My problems started before the new fuel pump which prompted me to replace the pump. Everything ran better than ever for about 5 days with the new pump and then these "new" problems...
Have I ever replaced the fuel pump in this truck? Yes, a couple weeks ago.
Or, did you mean, have I ever replaced a fuel pump before on any vehicle? No, this was my first time replacing a fuel pump.
Gas cap is OEM.
I not sure of the name of what you're referring to being located in the passenger side quarter panel either but I saw that in a couple other threads and I plan to check that tomorrow. I noticed that issues with items located there usually resulted in a strong gas smell inside...
Thanks, I will test it tomorrow morning.
Unless I have the return line clamped, if the bowl empties over night, cranking does not fill up the bowl. Only putting some fuel in to get it going will accomplish that. If the bowl is empty, twisting the throttle rod does not get fuel squirting from...