FN Wheels - Konig Countersteer Type X - 17"x8", 4.1" backspacing, -10mm offset
Can confirm these fit great, no spacers needed. Closest they get is about 3/8" clearance on the passenger side TRE with the wheels turned all the way toward driver side, more clearance on the driver side. Tires are...
Stalling could be a lot of things - when my fuel pump started to fail it would be fine around town but stall up mountains. Recommend you replace with OEM as the aftermarket one I tried failed in a few months.
Re the choke - just follow the cable to where it connects to the carb and make sure...
Had very similar symptoms and replaced OEM fuel pump with aftermarket and was mostly fixed for a while but still wasn't right. After months of chasing my tail I finally tried a new OEM fuel pump and problem was solved.
Hope it helps! Took me a long time to figure it out as I first replaced the original pump with whatever non-toyota one they had at a local retailer. It had the spacer and seemed to work but the problem remained. After that I thought it was related to vapor lock since letting it cool helped and...
I had a failing, but not yet failed, fuel pump behave like that. It drove fine around where I lived near the ocean, but once I went somewhere very hot or tried climbing a mountain it would just die and I'd have to wait for it to cool before it would start again. Replaced with a new Toyota pump...
That really doesn't look too bad to me, though if you saw my roof you would know why... I'll just say that's kinda an odd place for the only rail rust to be, meaning to me that water is getting in somewhere close. Probably related to that dent. You might even be able to repair that spot...
I had what sound like the exact same symptoms - she drove perfectly well around town and running up short hills but on long grades I'd lose power and she would eventually cut out entirely. I replaced fuel pump with aftermarket and nothing changed, then tried just about everything I could think...
Nope, didn't get it soldered just pressed it together with double the O-rings and reused the original crimps that wrap around the flanges of the pipe that goes through the firewall and the pipe on the heater core. (I never could find the part numbers of the crimps so not sure how to go about...
I ordered one from JCWhitney last year and they sent the wrong one - I think one for a 40 series. RockAuto also sent the wrong one. Then I ordered one off Ebay from Radsus and it was the correct heater core and in good shape. Here is a link. You will also want the O-rings that they use to make...
Just to wrap this up - Both the heater core from RockAuto and the one from JTOutfitters was not the correct one. In JTOutfitters defense, I think the one they sent me was for a '40 but was just in the wrong box - though I did have some issue getting my money back from them after I sent it back...
Finally replaced the heater core! And it only took three full attempts: 1st time after putting the entire thing back together I realized I missed a plug and it was pinned behind where it should be - tore it all out. 2nd time got it all back together and found out that it leaked at the notorious...
Stock goes strait out the back, with the tip under the bumper. People re-route to exiting just behind the driver-side rear wheel to get more clearance and avoid munching the tip when climbing out of a hole or reversing into one. It also gives more room for the spare or a larger gas tank.
If it stalled going up the mountain, I'd think fuel pump first. Going down... maybe a bad vacuum or intake manifold leak? Maybe a stuck EGR valve? Make sure timing and fuel mix are set and that you can see fuel in the carb window - once those are good, I'd look for air leaks. Good luck!
Hello,
The windshield washer nozzles that shoot through the hood grill on my '84 FJ60 are no longer available and mine are busted. Has anyone had luck finding a replacement that works?
Here is what I've found:
A relocation kit that moves the nozzle to the wiper arms. Seems like a decent idea...
And here is the heater core bypass solution in action. I went with the method recommended above by Output Shaft and FJ40Jim and plugged the #1 and #3 hoses from the picture above using bolts in the hose ends. I already had a coolant flush T installed in #1, so that was easy. It is hard to see...
Fantastic, thanks! - My floorboard thanks you too.
And thanks all for the other suggestions as well. I still haven't found a good diagram of the heater circuit for a 2F in a 60, but I'll update this thread with a pic of the solution I end up with after diving in tonight.
Fantastic - Thank you, Jim.
So just to be sure I'm understanding correctly, in the photo below (not my rig) I'm going to detach and plug hoses #2 and 3. My rear heater isn't leaking, so no need to mess with the others?
FJ60 Engine bay by Dodobo posted Jul 20, 2016 at 12:07 PM
Also, curiously I...