Resurrecting an old thread. Having a real hard time keeping my LS swap cool. What did you end up doing?
Very close to pulling the trigger on the Ron Davis. Was looking at the Icon build videos that Jonathan Ward posts and it looks like they are using some non OEM looking solutions as well...
Been a while since I've posted. I've been busy moving and the land cruiser just got unloaded from the 18 wheeler today.
Update since I've put 250 miles on the swap...
First and foremost, the power steering pump was bad on my engine which meant I had to tear the whole front end off and replace...
Nice, I dig the engine oil cooler. Definitely something I considered since I'm running the F-body oil pan and only have 6 quart capacity. I don't think I'll be running it quite that hard to need one though.
Are you referring to the LS or the toyo engine? Neither my LS nor the toyo engine had oil lines running to the radiator. The Toyo transmission fluid did run through the radiator before running to its own finned cooler. I kept the same plumbing on the 4L60.
I do not know about the shifter...
Transmission Cooler
This part of the build actually took me longer than I expected. One of my buddies had a bunch of extra AN fittings lying around so I decided to use that for most of this.
Parts:
AN adapters that screw into the 4L60e - FRA-481670-BL
Lots of hose to run from the trans...
Temp Sender
I plan on retaining the factory toyo gauges. I debated this quite a bit. I looked into OBD gauges as well as the typical dakota digital options. In the end I think this will prove the simplest. I'm already use to the speedo being off from running larger tires and I don't really care...
Air Intake
Parts first:
Airaid 200-912 (while expensive this was the only thing I could find that would fit with a mechanical fan)
KNN-RE-0870 Air Filter (This this was longer than I expected - I'd shop for something shorter)
Spectre (I Used this brand because they sell it at O'Reillys- it's...
Brakes- Also another annoying small part. If you have a truck engine that had brakes powered by the power steering then there is no vacuum port on your intake. You need to get PN 12559760 - <$10 on amazon.
This goes in the back of your intake on the driver side. There is a plug in the port...
I also used a lot of rivets in addition to the hardware supplied with the radiator kit. They were just so much easier to put on.
All told this took me about 2 days to accomplish and I had a plasma cutter at my disposal. Not for the faint of heart.
One other observation. The flimsiest part...
Fan Shroud- this has been the most tedious and frustrating part of the build thus far. Part of me wishes that I had gone with electric fans but it's over and done so no looking back. I changed the clutch on the fan while I had everything apart. Its a $60 part and it seemed like cheap insurance...