Yes. They'll work perfect for that combo. No relocating anything. Others have said you may need to slot the holes on the crossmember. I didn't have to do this.
I was a bit worried about this as well. They’re poly bushings, which also concerned me.
However, I’ve been driving my rig with these mounts for a couple months now and they’ve been great. Perfect location, no extra fab work. They may have SLIGHTLY more vibration than stock. But, nothing crazy...
My PCM and Dakota digital box is in the glovebox area, fuse block is under the hood.
There is not a ton of room there for it. If you want the cleanliness of not having it in the engine bay and don’t mind losing the storage, its a nice way to go.
I'm not quite ready to call it done. But, I swapped from the trailblazer cable to a universal column shift linkage for my 4l60. I did swap my lever to the drivers side. The engagement is way smoother and positive, feels almost like stock. Just needs more adjustment and re-working to be able to...
@TLC94LS was correct here for anyone else having an issue getting the tach to work. Bypassed the resistor and everything worked perfect. See above info for my setup.
Engine is LQ9 based. 4l60 trans. Once I get a few things buttoned up, I was thinking I'd make a post in here with the things that were a big help, as well as the things I did a little differently. I've got about 1200 miles on it now, love it!
That was the part that stumped the guys at Dakota Digital as well. Short of using an oscilloscope, I know the signal works.
We've got nearly the same setup. My rig is a 94, donor ecm (gen 3 p59) is from an 03 Suburban. Tach worked just fine prior to the swap with the 1FZ. I copied your...
Thank you! I had read through a bunch of your info (very helpful overall) and didn't realize that you did the resistor bypass. That must be it. Guess I'll be pulling the cluster this weekend.
Thanks! Ah, forgot that detail. I have a P59 ECM.
I haven't updated here because I still can't figure it out. Still thinking the cluster resistor might be my next option.
Yes, it's on the hi-volt output. I suppose one thing that I haven't tried is swapping to the low voltage, although it doesn't seem that anyone has had success that way.
The piece that stumped the Dakota Digital guys is that I can get the test signal to work every time. It's either settings, or...
I'm also interested in this. I've had a hell of a time with my tach. Seems that I've also stumped the awesome folks over at Dakota Digital. Using an SGI100BT, I can verify signal in, signal out, and I can send a test signal that works perfect. However, when I start the rig, nothing. Sometimes...
Sure. That’s fine and all. But, it doesn’t really tell me why my oil pressure gauge decided that it doesn’t want to work. Lol
I get the point you’re making by the way. No worries, like I said, not after break in advice. Just want to know if anyone else has extended that harness and not had...
Fresh rebuild.
Of course it’s already in at this point! And, about that 500hp motor thing… not quite. But, this is a 408 stroker motor. So, it’s also not a junkyard 5.3 with some new rings by Big Bubbas. Hahahaha
I’m good on all the break in info otherwise. Just really want to know that I...
Did you ever sort this out? I extended mine and can’t get it to read while priming my engine. Haven’t actually started it yet. Partly out of a fear of no oil pressure.
Potentially dumb question. Looking for instant gratification rather than searching tonight.
Obd1 rig (94)
I just pulled my motor/trans this evening, along with the entire engine harness and ecu. Hoping to mount my gm ecu in the factory location. Here’s my dumb question - I don’t need to...
Super clean, well maintained, runs and drives great. Mostly original with the exception of an OME medium duty lift kit, 315/75-16 Cooper AT3 tires (90% tread), and a TJM front bumper. Front seats have been reupholstered, everything else inside is in great shape (excluding the cd changer door)...