285 75 17 on a built 200 look like an oem fitment to my eye…as if that’s the size they “should” have put on it…or if there was a “rubicon” or “raptor” trim for a 200 series, that’s the size they’d run.
Functionally, I don’t know that you gain much in 34 or 35 over a 32 or 33 for the average...
It doesn’t appear so.
small pinion bearing in this kit is koyo hi-kap 30306j-n, stock/oem was nsk stf 30306djAag Japan L…which are visually dissimilar in thickness…essentially both of the oem/stock pinion bearings have thick rings of metal on top of them (kit pinion bearings in the...
Good idea, the stark difference between oem and what was in the kit kind of bothered me too.
At $60 for an oem bearing and race (supposedly part # 90366-40088) I get exactly what Toyota designed…and can use my old one as a setup bearing to reduce the chances of an issue.
The pinion needs a spacer before the large pinion bearing goes on..mine from the oem 4.10 100 series rear diff appears to be to be .0495”…I used an anytime tools tube micrometer (0-1” 0.0001”) to measure its thickness
There are some issues to consider as when installing…the pinion, from the...
I would tend not to use snatch blocks (true pulley style) with synthetic shackles…at least with my classic snatch block (pulley style), the metal is thin where it engages with a shackle…thin crease point plus synthetic doesn’t seem like a good mix…synthetic line/shackles need a wider radius than...
There are videos comparing chinesium synthetic line on YouTube…if I remember correctly, some of the off brand stuff performed better than the expensive stuff…
but the cheaper off brand ones were also thicker/heavier than they’re supposed to be (1/4” wasn’t really 1/4”)…
so the Chinese...
No.
But the closed aluminum shackle I have on the end of my winch is a serious chunk of metal that I wouldn’t want flying through the air…throwing a set of snap ring pliers into my bag of kit seems a reasonable precaution to be able to quickly remove the closed aluminum shackle from my winch...
It ripped the recovery p
I plan to bring some snap ring pliers to remove my winch shackle in the event I attach it to something with a soft shackle.
If it’s attached to a bowshackle on a recovery point, it still seems like a solid option.
I ran into a bit of an issue and am still trying to sort it out.
I tapped the race that was sent in…while it did press in, it is proud of the place it presses…according to the 200 series forum, zuks photos, AND my extra diff, that race is supposed to be inset, not proud…also the old bearing...
remove old pinion bearing from the pinion…an “up to 4.25”/108mm bearing separator ($50 or it can be rented/loaned from Autozone) seem to have worked, along with a press and some aluminum bearing race press plates
Catch the pinion when it comes out so it’s not damaged. It’ll have a small spacer...
I’m probably not the right person to advise on this as I’m a subpar mechanic…don’t fully understand the terminology, etc.
The headlight high beam has a hot and ground going into it…I think I cut the insulation off a small bit of the hot wire and ran a wire from there to the switch part of the...
I ran the hot/trigger/switch for the relay that drives my aux lights right off the wire that leads to the headlight if I remember correctly…
The hot/ground for the lights themselves I ran straight to the battery.
The relay is the “switch” that turns on the lights…the “automatic” trigger for...
Press carrier/side bearings on using bearing press plates and your homemade (internally) enlarged race (that should easily slips onto the carrier)
do the long side of the carrier first (if there is one)…
if you do the short side first, you’re going to have that bearing on the bottom like in the...
One that is 1-2/32nds worn will put you at 34” even…which is right in the middle of the 35” tire’s life (33.5”-34.5”)…that’s what I did…until my 35’s wore down enough to fit under the car.
In hindsight, had I been able to find a used 35, I would have just bought a matching 35 with a slightly...
A deflated 35 will fit after you put a little over 5k miles on it.
The math (I think):
You’ll run through about 16/32nds (0.5”) of rubber on each side of a tire during its 50k mile life…meaning it will start at 34.5” and end at 33.5”
50k miles divided by 16/32nds means about 3,125 miles per...