I agree that if you want to do real custom work you could achieve that.
I am not sure why they recommend a minimum depth on the hitch tongue going into the hitch receiver.
is it because that wedge needs to be protruding out the back of the recover in order to truly lock up? doesn't seem like...
for the Kuat Pivot, the tongue is pretty short already, shorter than the rambleswing.
sorry for the confusion, but I went back and edited some of my comments to separate what I was saying about the Kuat Pivot from what was being said about the rambleswing.
yeah I edited my post, I was speaking on the Kuat Pivot 2.0
I looked into the rambleswing and didn't want to mess around with chopping a new angle. I think the conclusion I came to from looking at pictures of the other Rig'd products was that you couldn't really shorten it enough for my...
for the Kuat Pivot 2.0
there's a bolt that goes through the front side of the tongue and it draws this diagonal wedge backwards as the bolt is tightened and that pushes a foot out that braces the inside of the hitch receiver.
so what this means is the bolt is mounted to a blind tongue. that...
oh you need 2" off? there's not enough for that there's maybe an easy half inch on the Kuat Pivot 2.0
pictures below.
EDIT: the Rig'd anti rattle is a different mechanism than what's pictured
why not chop the tongue? the mechanism that removes rattle doesn't extend to the end of the tongue.
the Rig'd tongues tend to be long, I appreciate that the Kuat Pivot 2.0 tongue is less so.
yes, I wanted to make the basket sit closer and higher. the clearance isn't that great as the hitch extender I used is pretty long. but it's better than a basket that just stick straight out from a hitch.
that's why the Kuat Pivot 2.0 was necessary for this project. I can't open the barn door...
this thread helped me so I am just adding another option
https://www.rigdsupply.com/products/rambleswing-bike-rack-swing-out
I ended up going with a Kuat Pivot 2.0 on my GX470. thanks for the rec guys.
so my question for information sake is what about the mechanics if having one leg up in the air, causes the delay in engagement? it seems to be a very particular conference of circumstances.
from the "issue" videos it seems like it happens when the drive line is pointing all which ways and there's not constant progress, there's a stop, then a reattempt and that's where it seems things are not meshing up.
I think I'll end up with a Harrop up front, but I'm still interested in the theory of what's going on in these unlocking videos.
you're saying the mechanism is dead simple.
we don't know the true conditions of what's happening in the video, maybe the guy just didn't press the button, maybe...
not to cast aspersions, but it's also the case that not everyone who goes on a guided off-road trip is a wrencher. some people have money and they believe what they're told about stuff they don't have expertise in.
all these are just data points. I'm just trying to get the best picture I can...
and I don't want to be biased... the guy making the video is being obnoxious as ****. he's clearly all about ARB lockers and their solid engagement.
if I was traveling with someone that said E LOCKEEER every time my locker wasn't working, while he was filming, I'd stop traveling with that guy.
I am glad to hear your experience because that's encouraging. again, there's a lot of satisfied customers. I am thinking of a Harrop for a front locker and sticking with factory Toyota in the rear.
to be honest I'm not trying to crawl up rocks and intentionally damage my rig to get the "win"...
I hear you, but the videos show clearly that sometimes multiple full rotations of the wheel do not actually engage the locker. manufacturer language mentions load, so my query is of you need that half revolution of travel to be loaded for the locker engagement.
or is something else at play?