With the stock 2013 wheels it is pretty easy to reach through the gap and unscrew the valve cap on the spare without having to lower it. When I raise the spare, I make sure the valve stem is close to the rear of the truck and that way I can check the pressure and top off the air without lowering.
Definately not worth it at all. Waste of $$. Go ahead and send me links to those low mile LX’s. I’ll make sure they aren’t available for anyone else to waste their hard earned money on, haha 😆. I like the earlier LX better than the more recent redesigns. And the tech in a 2010 LX is still...
I have a 2013 LC and it is just right for me size wise. 3rd row comes handy but not used frequently. Enough cargo space without being a pain to park. Can tow my cargo trailer fine or anything else not requiring a HD truck. Does just fine getting to fishing spots or ski lifts. It checks all the...
I have been using this in both u-joints and drive shaft for the last 6 years with no issues to report on my 2013 LC
Edit - I am so lazy, I even slather a little on my KDSS valve screws while I’m under there instead of using 3 different grease products 😂
I have Z-583 and have test fit them in the snow with KO2’s (LT285-70R17). Tension is not really an issue for casual use, just follow the directions. I would not recommend for extended use over many miles, but that is how I feel about any cable chain, even those with tensioner. I keep them in the...
The comments for keeping off of Carfax and out of the service records is why buying a used vehicle is so sketchy for me these days. FWIW, I purchased my Toyota CPO used LC with a documented minor accident (no structure damage or airbags), same with my wife’s X5. Got good deals on good vehicles...
For me, the only thing a truck does better than a utility trailer is haul bikes, kayaks, etc. Using a trailer and parking at a trail head or drop off spot is not ideal. Otherwise, utility trailer all the way.
I do get that, the rear handle grab is my go to. On my 2013 LC it is only available to change this option with Techstream which is easy enough to access with the right cable/dongle
I don’t like the all door unlock and disable it on any car driven by my wife. Too easy for someone to follow a person in parking lot or public garage and get in while they are distracted. Just my 2 cents.
I have had 1 previous set of KO2s in load C and current in load E and feel zero difference in daily on-road driving (stock suspension) between them. I hear many people comment they can tell the difference but they feel the same to me.
If the 600 is any indication, it will be a very long time until there are many of these sitting on a lot. Seems that they will be on a long waiting list for allocations and dealers adding a large fee above MSRP for years to come. I’m hoping to pick up a newish one coming off a lease in about 20...
I keep a large piece of cardboard behind my tool chest. Lay it out under the vehicle when changing fluids and it catches anything that splashes. Wipe it off and reuse for many years. I recommend 2 or 4 Rhino ramps to make oil changes easier.
I bought my 2013 in 2018 and it was CPO with 3 year full warranty extension and had minor accident (no structural or airbag deploy) reported on CarFax. I was offered a Platinum warranty option also so I’m thinking it doesn’t necessarily matter about an accident reported
I’ve had KO2s in LT285/65R18 in D load and now run LT285/70R17 in E load and I couldn’t tell the difference. My opinion is there isn’t much difference in feel between D & E load for my driving and use.
Original owner of my 2013 had PPF put on the headlights but only the front facing surface. The tops are getting pretty bad but the front is pristine after 10 years!