if you want to know all the part numbers for front axle, search “front axle cheatsheet” here on Mud. There’s a thread by Darkness circa July 2013 with a great visual (from none other than the FSM)
dude, you really need to stop looking on the internet and just physically look at your car with an FSM in your hand. Put it on Jackstands and pull the front wheel off and match the part in the FSM to what you see on your car. Then take off another piece, match the next layer, etc.
Some people...
I finished modeling the part and sent the draft over to @Wompom this morning to review.
I'm not sure on his timeline but I think we're getting closer towards making this available.
There isn’t much to see with the JRP gauge, which is really convenient.
Sensors go to various places and a wire feeds back into the main computer (small 4” x 5” x 1” thick box). The display is connected to that box via a small wire.
I ran the wires through the firewall near the steering...
Both bolts were finger tight. Thanks for the heads up to check before I lots my nutz. I need to throw lock washers on both but that’s a “future Chris” problem
What I do is just order parts for the next 6 months of “non-urgent parts I’ll need to replace soonish”. The 4-6 week wait doesn’t matter. If it’s sooner than that, I order online for pickup from local Mr T parts counter (usually a few days lead time). If it’s urgent, I pay MSRP and cry.
Never bought from there so I couldn’t tell you. I bought from Lewis Toyota during Black Friday deal and waited like 4 weeks for parts to be delivered.
The parts are still on the shelf waiting to be installed so the delay didn’t set me back at all :)
Extra 15-25% happens many times per year. I’d guess about quarterly.
There was one in August, and another around Black Friday just off the top of my head (as I ordered parts both those times)
@hazard, I said it back when you were talking about getting the adapters made, but I'll say it again...I think transmission swap is the next big way to upgrade these trucks. The OEM Trans is a major limiting factor and especially so for the Turbo'd motors that would benefit from standalone ECU...
The oil supply line is restricted to 1/4" (-4AN) which is what is recommended by the turbo manufacturers.
The drain and drain line from Turbo is -10AN.
I may or may not have bought an AUTOOLS one from amazon, used it, then returned it 🙃
It's now $125 and I probably would have kept it at that price. Built-in compressor means just pour in some mineral oil, connect to the battery and let it go to work.
Welcome the boosted side...prepare for more fun and fuel.
Another tip...
If you think you may want to have the turbo cerakoted...do it now or you'll probably never do it 🙃
It's also a great time to get headers and heat shields cleaned and coated.