Thanks. New OEM radiator cap on there. Someone else had advised me to try that a while back... eventually this mystery will be solved. I’ve just put so much $$$ into replacing the entire cooling system, it’s frustrating to have to spend more. But, it’s gotta get done one way or another... thanks...
Thanks so much for taking the time to advise me on this - I really appreciate it. Definitely not hearing the "roar" when I start the engine. Will check belt tension and try "putting" around to check temps this afternoon - as it's a hot one here in SoCal. Again - many thanks - will keep you...
Thanks so much. It’s definitely worth a shot before exploring an engine rebuild. I appreciate it.
By the way - last big trip I did was up to Tahoe earlier this summer - the peg lived on the hash just before the red the entire trip up. My wife was just off the plane from 2 months working...
NEW Radiator, NEW fan clutch, and NEW 190 thermostat (all OEM) was what I was running before (the whole dang cooling system was replaced w/ NEW OEM)- it was still overheating.
Thx for the warning re: the modified thermostat, though.. I'll probably put the still working unmodified 190 degree...
I'm lucky to live in LA where there are a few reputable Land Cruiser resources. I had the same idea and went to pick up the 180 degree thermostat and gaskets from Specter Offroad and ended up talking to Kurt, their mechanic... he took me to out back to their shop, dug out an old thermostat...
Hey all,
I've been dealing with an engine temp issue for a while ('89 FJ62 3FE 258,000miles). Most notably when going uphill, the temp will rise and the needle will rest on the hash just before the red. Going downhill it cools. I've taken radiator temps with an IR Thermometer of 220-226 degrees...
Hi - I'm based in LA - just had my A440F rebuilt by a shop in Sun Valley - turns out the valve body needs to be swapped out. Would you happen to have one you could sell? if so, how much?
Thx
M