Yup, It has some holes. Body is not perfect. It has been rhino lined, rust stopped and has been living in Colorado for the last 5 years, so no more rot.
I have decided to sell the FJ40. Not sure what the market is like, but maybe guys on here can help me out on value.
Ask any questions you like, I will do my best to answer.
1977. Chevy 350 with TBI, SMG 4 speed transmission. Lifted with springs and hangers. 35" KO3s with 90%+ on 17" Evan...
Then cut steel and welded in the parts. Put a layer of paint on. Today, I will bolt in a set of military HMMWV (H1) seatbelts. Should be much better and will not have to be taken out when the top comes off.
It's been an ongoing small project for the last few weeks. Putting new seatbelts in to replace the lap belts that are in the front. Started with making a set of gussets to fit the roll bar.
I need to get mounting brackets for mine as well. Are you fabricating or did you buy? I don't like the price of the mounts online, so have been waiting.
Radiator Master Globalization. Once I cut the corner to fit the bottom, everything else lined up great. I will be finishing the detail work today and fire it up. So far, the only other fitment issue was with the shroud.
I had to modify (cut) the mount a bit to fit the bottom of the new radiator. Shroud did not fit anywhere close to where the factory holes were, so I had to drill new holes to fit. No big deal, as it is all aluminum.
Since the brake lines did not match up, i had to come up with a solution. Advanced auto sells copper/nickel lines that bend pretty nicely. SO, after a few bends, I have this. Not perfect, but after bleeding the system, it stops on a dime! Better brake feel than my Audi!
I could not for the life of me get my brake master cylinder to stop seeping. So, I finally bit the bullet and replaced the master with a mini-truck master. I have 4 wheel disc on my rig, so I figure it would be best to get an updated master for the old girl.
Hey, one more thing. I see high HCs when the engine is not burning the fuel completely. This can be caused by a too low of a temperature in the engine while running. Check the coolant temperature sensor (if you have fuel injection) and the thermostat.
Marvels comes in 16 oz bottles (and larger). That's all you need. Add and run for 500-1000 miles, then change your oil.. Keep an eye on the oil, it is taking in all the pollutants that are coming off the valves and such, so you don't want to run "dirty" oil too long.
To check for sticky...