This is a one-off custom 3D printed titanium CB antenna mount for the RIGHT side rear hatch. The concept is copied from the Yodateq mounts. I modeled the antenna mounting hole closer to the truck than yodateq and therefore it's really only good as an antenna mount. Mounting a light would...
Everything sold except an OEM thermostat
Brand new from Cruiser Outfitters, 80-Series Front Knuckle Rebuild Kit w/ Timken bearings - SOLD
Brand new 80 series birfs from Cruiser Outfitters. (one opened just to look at it, one still packed from cruiser outfitters)
"Standard Duty" Part#...
Something went wrong on a ferry and an (unoccupied) 80 series rolled off into the water... stays floating for quite some time!
Looks like we have at least 45 seconds to remove seatbelts and find a glass shattering hammer.
http://jalopnik.com/ferry-forgets-to-keep-car-on-boat-1790727628
Somewhat related to your struggle:
I was replacing the timing belt on a friends Highlander. Crank bolt needs removed to access it. Tried the breaker-bar/starter bump method two dozen times with no results. Bought the HF 1/2" earthquake (700ft-lbs reverse) impact... still no luck. Took it to...
Yup, CDL installed and one of the two shafts removed allows you to drive around... no harm to anything.
A couple guys on here drove around for months that way. I've done it for a couple weeks at a time.
Easiest fix? How about the easiest band-aid to get you to and from work.
Do you have a CDL switch? If so, completely remove the front driveshaft, lock center diff and drive all you want while getting the front shaft fixed.
If you dont have a CDL switch, you can use your hazard switch (after...
Things have really picked up at today, so this will be a "short" post. I will gather my thoughts and ideas into a new thread later this month to explain the process entirely. I've always wanted to make a little side business of printing metal parts for forum communities I participate in. This...
I'll definitely make a write up about the process. I'm in a meeting right now, but will put something together in a little bit. Depending how in-depth it gets, I might just make a new thread.
Thanks! I've worked in the additive metals field for 5 years, titanium, inconel, aluminum, cobalt chrome, coppers, stainless, etc...
Typically my day revolves around printing aerospace components and medical implants/devices... it's nice to have a little break and make some stuff for my cars...
Can the fancy machines play too?
Spent a few minutes at work today and threw some on our titanium 3d printer.
Your engine will melt before these do.:flipoff2:
If you want projectors, retro fit is the way to go. In my ricer days (still cringe when I look back at my previous taste in car mods) I had ebay projector headlights in my accord. Look cool? kinda... functional? BARELY. I'm pretty sure the light pattern thrown out was worse than stock...
This thread is full of good info. I've got 225k on the clock and regularly drive 2-3 hour trips. Never had an issue requiring my trip to end (or even be delayed).
I am always keeping an eye out for leaks (fixing them when noticed), as well as fluid levels (oil and water most importantly)...
THIS IS HOW DIY's SHOULD BE WRITTEN!!! I have been contemplating an ARB locker install and this thread has provided me the information I need to feel confident I can handle it. I'm still going to wait until the thread is complete, but thank you for the time you have put into sharing this with...
My gut feeling it... 1/8" aluminum would have about the same strength...
Here is the most half-assed engineering solution of all time:
It's designed for beam calcs... but apples=oranges anyways
Beam Calculator
Youngs Mod can be estimated from this table...
had the exact same sound.... it was a U-joint on the front driveshaft. How did you eliminate u-joint from being a possibility?
Do you have a CDL switch? Remove the front driveshaft, lock center diff, and drive around. If it goes away, you've helped isolated the issue.
I was amazed how...