Not sure about loading, but if you're running split steels then be wary that the bead profile is different from tubeless.. check the detail on the rim and tyre.
I'm running split 60 series rims with super hajari tyres - original fitment in South Africa and seen pretty tough, im driving on...
Maybe worth checking your grounding points at the headlights too in that case.
When you pull the headlight switch fully out, and only the side lights come on; are the headlights actually off, or are they glowing very very dimly?
How does the level in the bottle look?
I had a damaged radiator cap neck which prevented it sucking back coolant when it cooled down - could be overflowing your overfilled bottle on an incline??
+1 for ohm meter - don't rely on 'continuity' on a vehicle electrics - can be very misleading.
You say your fuses are all good - do you have 12v on both sides of them all?
Body mount bolts all present and correct?
My battery box had a stress fracture that allowed it to swing about a bit - could be another possible I guess.
A Box spanner can sometimes fit where even a thin socket won't - and are usually cheap, which is especially nice if you need to turn another mm off it to get it to fit, and throw it away when you're done.
That plus heat.
I have a bucket full of wiring that I removed. Sounds like you're going in the right direction :)
Looks like an RF connector to me. CB or police radio - where did it come from?
I'll definitely give it a try - doesn't cost anything :)
Not enough vacuum on the diesel engine to power the booster, so at least I won't suffer from that. I'm running an electric vacuum pump since the original alternator (with mechanical pump attached) got switched out.
Haven't even checked the head bolts yet tbh. I guess if they were really loose then I might have confidence in that, but it's hard to determine if oil is still leaking inside.
Hoping that my top end has actually been getting at least some oil recently.
Reposting here in the hope of a wider audience - I posted in the diesel section but tbf I rarely look in there even myself.
Got my engine a bit warm last year because the rad cap was leaking and my gauge wasn't working at the time. It hadn't lost much coolant, so I topped it up with water to...
And it's definitely charging ok?
I got all my fluids delivered from Opie and it has been a good service.
For the moment I'm running Comma EP80W-90 GL5 in the diffs, and X-flow 5w30 semi synthetic in the engine.
I don't have the gearbox bottle in front of me but same brand.
Note that some modern...
It looks pretty sturdy, and its probably better too tight than too loose - you don't want that flapping around at 60mph and exposing you to the elements.
Got my engine a bit warm last year because the rad cap was leaking and my gauge wasn't working at the time. It hadn't lost much coolant, so I topped it up with water to limp home.
Forgot all about it and it sat most of the winter. Ran it for a while today on the drive, and I've got steam...
The factory glow plug relay is under the glove box, and switches between the different glow modes.
Presumably you activated the relay by turning the key backwards for around 10s to Glow, or until the 'glow controller' under the headlight switch starts to glow red hot (assuming that it is all...
Whatever the ratios are, you should still be able to drive it at 60mph so long as engine speed sounds normal, which you clearly can't.
Did you change anything on the injector pump / throttle linkage during install?
Have you checked your valve clearances?
Are the injectors all bled?
How smokey...
Looks familiar - mine had 3 in a row.
Might not be pretty, but it's better. Might even get some white top coat on it once I get the baby into nursery...
Bought mine online. Readily available, and still widely used in agricultural applications and some light goods vehicles. Make sure you get the right valve stem - TR75 IIRC.