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Is the provent clear or is it plugged inside? that would be the first thing I would be looking at.

AS Shred posted above, there is no trick. Mine was pretty stuck together, It took a lot of whacks and lots of penetrating oil so I could start to make it spin, once I got that far it came apart somewhat easy. I cleaned the grove with oven cleaner as trying to get the old rings out was a major PITA.

Intersting duramax set-up. What is the problem with the HDJ setup, is it the whole OEM box or the fact that between the filter and turbo the lid has a squished metal duct? I was looking at a FZJ lid at one point as its not squished at the top.

I don't believe the HDJ's ever came with factory alarms for that year, at least I have never seen one.

These trucks when they started to come into Canada many years ago were notorious for having leaking Fuel pumps, they all started off small and progressively got worse. If you do not know the history of it I would be tempted to send it in for a rebuild to make sure everything is ok if you have...

@ForealBoreal has, search the forum and you shall receive

You would still have power as your truck still has a battery, you could theoretically run for a while as long as you had enough voltage to the fuel solenoid

Thats what I would have my money on as well, you can see the voltage is down as well.

I had tried Cetane booster from Canadian Tire (Formula1 Brand) but it did not seem to do anything exciting, the product is now discontinued from the looks of it. Around here I seem to have the worst experience with Chevron Fuel, it almost sounds like it is mis-firing and I'll get lots of more...

I may have missed it but is the O-Ring good between the turbo and intake cover? Like Mudgudgeon said if you pressurize it it may be leaking out there if its a bad seal, if you take it apart be careful as the clearances are very tight as you can see.

You say the turbo does not spin when you have the motor in idle? correct me if I am wrong here but shortly after start-up you should hear the turbo spool up.... if not that could be the smoking gun?

ATEB here in Canada had tubes of what I think was Toyota 15k oil that I believe came from Malaysia or that area around there, I took a photo of the toyota part number but even searching it I came up with nothing....

x2 on rockauto DENSO 4711433

Interesting, originally in my truck it would lockup around 74, with he valve body it lockups at 60.... lol

Plenty of info on 'Mud if you search. The long and short, Japan filter is double toilet paper roll, Thailand is one part toilet paper roll and one part of your typical filter media

Thats very interesting, I don't know how the Canadian price can be 3 times lower than the american price?! I was able to swap my rears with a different truck so it did not cost me anything, good to know anyway

New backing plate are 600 + each, unless you have luck finding a wrecked truck and they can part out pieces of the axles you won't have much luck

Unless you have 93+ backing plates for you 90-92 Cruiser you will be unable to upgrade your rear discs. My dad has got them on eBay for his 90 HDJ81, EBI cruisers in PoCo may have them still, I don't know many other places where you could get them.

I have a Hopkins on my cruiser that came from my Dad who also has a 81, I believe he either asked hopkins for the correct plugs or he went to a junkyard and got some more plugs, we simply repined the hopkins kit and works like a charm.

I assume you will reseal the split flange, if not do it or else it will leak, ask me how I know