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You can cap the fittings or even remove them and put in blanks. The main reason people don’t do it is because access is a huge PITA.

Below is a wiring diagram for HDJ80, which I assume is the same as my 97 HDJ81. What I am looking for is the locations of the VSV (EGR) [3] and the Pick-up Sensor [4], as well as some info on what the pick-up sensor does. I know that VSV (EGR Cut) [1] and VSV (EGR Control) [2] are the VSVs...

I ended up putting the base unit on a rear window molle panel and the faceplate where the altimeter / compass used to be on my 80. Also added a little speaker behind the faceplate.

I would suggest to start by replacing the rotor (pulley) bearing. See my write up at HOWTO: AC Rotor (Pulley/ Clutch) Bearing Replacement In Situ (1HDT/FT) - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/howto-ac-rotor-pulley-clutch-bearing-replacement-in-situ-1hdt-ft.1297198/

The marks were there. But to be staked, don't the tabs have to protrude past the race so as to prevent the bearing from coming out?

Thank you, Yes, 22 mm. A typo on my part, I'll correct the post. Oddly enough mine was not staked to begin with (see below) I wonder if it was swapped before. And yes, a good idea to re-stake it.

As our trucks get (quite) older, it's not uncommon to have the bearing go on the AC compressor rotor (pulley/clutch) assembly. When mine went on my HDJ81 (1HD-FT) the other day, I was surprised to find that most people recommended taking the compressor off to replace the bearing. That was not...

1hd-ft FSM says that the torque for the hollow bolts that connect the leak pipe to then injectors is 18 Nm. Alas, I broke the bolt without even getting close to that torque. It the FSM is wrong as that’s way too much for those tiny bolts, or could it be that these bolts were stretched by...

Get out of my head lol Unless you are in Canada, you are probably not cheaper than amayama … but possible

Where are you?

The cylinder block insulator that sits behind the fuel pump on my 1HD-FT (12581-17010) has disintegrated. Amayama wants $100 for it with shipping. I know its not a huge amount, but still annoying for what appears to be a piece of thick foam. Are there any alternatives?

The timing belt pulley mounts to those with 4 bolts.

Taking out the fuel pump on my 1hd-ft, and the FSM says to take out the drive gear o ring, which I understand is the small one under the drive gear nut. For the life of me I can’t see it, it must be there as I can’t push the pump out with a puller. Any tips on how to get it out? And why...

Taking out the fuel pump on my 1hd-ft, and the FSM says to take out the drive gear o ring, which I understand is the small one under the drive gear nut. For the life of me I can’t see it, it must be there as I can’t push the pump out with a puller. Any tips on how to get it out?

Tried that, the threads would catch but wouldn’t hold. Even created this tool out a screw extractor, still no luck.

I am having difficulty pulling out some of the injector seats on my 1HD-FT. Is there a trick to it?

SOLVED: it's a washer for where the return line goes through the block. p/n 90430-13002 on the diagram below

Here is what the 12 washers look like in RADD Cruiser's kit.

Hi, I am in the process of removing injectors and fuel pump from my 1997 1HD-FT to have them rebuilt. In the process, I found a cooper washer and can't find its proper place or find a diagram that refers to it. Please bear with me. Here is the washer beside an injector: I checked on...

To be clear, deleting the EGR and installing an oil catch can are entirely different. You delete the EGR by either removing the EGR valves and metal pipes and blanking the ports, or just putting a blanking plate where the EGR pipe connects to the exhaust manifold. You install a catch can in...