Sincerely appreciate the things to check, but I have a “no start”, issue. Wouldn’t things relating to advance/retard be a runability issue ?
This whole thing started, when I replaced: wires, rotor, cap & plugs. Couldn’t restart after. No coughing, back firing, or sputtering, just cranking &...
Well hunting season came & went, many other little chores to get the O’l homestead stocked with firewood, tools and projects cleaned up out of the driveway before snow fall.
And I never did get the 40 restarted.
Cold & dark mist the day, so relented and took the old girl into a local shop...
It was running fine, just doing basic maintenance since it had been awhile.
However the rig had been sitting for several years. (Maybe moved around the driveway once or twice a winter to shovel snow).
Just completed a quick 25 mike highway run to warm diff fluids so also could drain quick &...
That airflow looks like was functioning, the nipple on the small vacuum line is the one melted, implying the air exiting the dizzy after it was heated. I Still need to figure out why the heat in the first place & fix it
The rig has been sitting for a few years. I’ve been running 35’s for years, and just had the diff’s regeared to 4.88’s. RPM’s are higher but no tach, to say what actual RPM’s are. Went 20 miles on the freeway to break-in & change out fluids. Max speed via GPS was 64 MPH
Any chance I just...
So now I am a little freaked out. Doesn’t start after the ignition change out. Double checked the wires, so guess I need to see if the coil is working. But took some more pic’s showing heat on the cap & rotor. Seems more focused under the port for the red line coming from the firewall
Replacing plugs, cap, wires & rotor on the original 2F in a 1980 FJ 40
This looks like it’s melted. What does it do ? Anybody have a PN for whatever this is ? So what if it’s melted, how will this effect performance?