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I have one of those one hand grip style grease guns and use it for small jobs but find them to be too tiring/slow for a big job. The long pump lever type is just easier/quicker to use IME. Whatever works. Traditional design (I use a long flexible hose extension)...

IME you can get to a few of the zerks (vehicle on it's tires/wheels, not jacked up) by orienting the zerk upward somewhere between 10-2 O'clock, then coming at the zerk from above using a long rubber hose extension for the nozzle. Also some manufacturer's nozzles are fatter than others, so...

OK, back to tech. Mud Grease rule #1: Any compatible* grease is better than no grease or contaminated grease. *Definitiion of compatible grease: greases that have the same base type. So Lithium (soap) base is compatible with Lithium base. Aluminum is compatible with Aluminum, Calcium is...

FWIW there's also Valvoline full Synthetic grease (used to be called SynPower) with IIRC 2-1/2% Moly which generally can be found at most auto parts stores in the US (Auto zone for example). Having said that Valvoline's lubricant business (engine oil grease, gear oil, etc) was recently sold to...

"378k miles on original U-joints?" Yes, on my 96 FZJ80 the rear U-joints are original @ 378,000 miles. The front driveshaft is out and sitting on the shelf with the original U-joints (lower miles as it's been out for quite awhile). There is an occasional metallic "clink" if I shift into...

Valvoline Palladium (Lithium base with 3% Molybdenum) for the slip yolks and knuckles. In the US it's sold at NAPA auto parts stores. Around the world there're other greases that are similar (Penrite, Shell, ---). I changed from Mobil 1 grease to the Palladium for the U-joints once they hit...