One thing I noticed when I had my 1F on the stand is how heavy these are; there is a ton of metal in the block. It could just be that your cooling system is working well and it takes a long time to heat all that cast iron and that’s the nature of it?
Also, how long is a long time and do you...
They are a locknut and the threads go just past the licking part so I think it’s good. Going to go snug them again in a couple weeks after everything settles in.
I put the tub on the chassis Tuesday. First time since 1990 it’s been bolted on. Used the energy suspension bushing kit and while it is complete, I have 2 complaints (for anyone considering it). First, the thin, rectangle pads that go on a rear support channel under the floor are held on with...
I’m using the 3M 08011 for mine and I’ve been having no problems. I have also just adhered 1 side and let that set up, then do the rest of the stripping a couple hours later with a chip clip in the fresh corners. Seems to help it not want to pull out of shape.
In case that doesn’t make sense to...
Mine came with a heater in-line in the lower hose. Hell, I’d even give it to anyone who wanted it! But I’m not convinced it works. Last plugged in sometime in the 80’s....
Since the cord is cut and it’s non functional anyway, you could swap it for an actual freeze plug or one of the rubber expanding plugs (similar to what’s there). Would require draining coolant to below that hole and refill.
I guess I haven’t updated here in awhile. I’ve been getting a ton done but it all seemed small and inconsequential, but I guess I’m keeping this updated for my own future reference as much as just a spot to show what I’ve done since most of my friends don’t care...
I am pretty much done...
I am planning on getting my tub back on the frame early next week, now that the drivetrain is back in. Figured getting the brake lines on first would be easier, so I bent some new frame and rear axle lines today. Need to clean the unions and the hold down clips then transfer to the new lines
“Rust repair is not something to idly jump into, there’s more than you think and multiple ways to do it.”
That’s the truth. There’s ALWAYS more than it looks like. Using something like Ospho would stop it from continuing so you could still drive and enjoy it. If you’ll replace the panels anyway...
My wife and 4yo daughter made cookies for my birthday. As close to spring green as she could get. Then cadet blue, since that’s what color she wants the next one to be. And pink, because my daughter wants a pink one with purple seats and a rainbow engine. She wasn’t a fan of the plain ol black...
Need inside pics and up underneath also for better advice.
I would replace that whole quarter panel, not just a patch. From looking at just these pics and what you’re saying, I’d replace a lot. Take a ton of measurements of everything. Then I’d start on the inside and work my way out. So, brace...
Not saying that eBay ad for the 69 is suspect, but it is not difficult to make things look inflated on eBay. Especially in classic cars, people put a real high buy it now price or have a friend, employee or second account bid up the price. Then when it sells, both parties can “agree” to cancel...
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