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Do you have a particular model in mind?

good score, and you know what those 60 radios are selling for now, big $

Thanks for posing the OE.

I agree the light filters might be a problem. The LEDs that Matt sells are a great replacement if you want a lot more light without additional heat.

My first degree was NE, so how about 3120753181547 MeV/s?

Like plastic bulb holders for the cluster.

The early 40 wiper motors are switched on the ground side whereas the 62 wiper motor is switched on the hot side. The intermittent wiper relay will not work, you would have to rewire your wiper motor and I'm not sure that is possible. This is the intermittent wiper setup I use, the Nissan...

For the 08600-00014, the case will come apart like this, you can see the screw holes in the picture. The bulb is a wedge base T3.25, the original is a Toshiba 158, but the 194 bulb is the same size and has a much longer rated life. It is rated for about 0.5 watts higher than the 158. Or you...

The factory ac radiator is wider but I think the same thickness. The support and shroud are also wider of course. There is not much extra space in there but it fits. If you have an early bib that uses the domed headlight cans, they will not fit with the wider radiator.

some good info on it here https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/1978-hard-top-glass-installation.775382/

I changed my top from the early two piece weather strip to the later one piece style, the glass size is different.

x2 on the relays, get the Toyota kit.

If your crimp is not that great then the solder can help ensure a good connection. There is a lot of misinformation out there on solder connections.

NASA 8739.4:

The crimp connector is fine by itself if you have a good crimp tool.

Get a crimp tool, buy the connectors from coolerman or toyotamatt, install the proper connectors on your harness (assuming the existing wires in your harness are long enough). Or see if one of them will make up the connectors with pigtails that you can splice on to your harness. A good splice...

You should be able to remove the 2 side screws via the cluster and ashtray holes. If the rear bottom screw is there you may have to drop the heater down. When you get the mechanism out of the case you will see how it operates, where the old grease is, etc. I clean using crc electronic cleaner...

Pushing an am or fm button will actuate a slide switch inside that changes bands. Your condition is common, it's best to remove the tuning mechanism and clean/lubricate it. Try to keep cleaner and lubricant out of the clutch.

Yes. Currently doing business on the kitchen table until the radio lab is complete.

Working on the CB40M today. Some of the segments on the channel LEDs were not working. The segments in the channel display are controlled by contacts in the channel selector switch, wiping the switch a few times got it to working pretty well. After a bit of run time, found the middle...